Questions on removing rear axle

[msg]

Ive nearly gotten my 66 broken down and had parts sandblasted from time to time. Next step is getting the frame sent off to blast. I was planning to remove the rear axle and not have it blasted but planned to wirebrush and use my sander where I can to get it ready to paint. I assumed its a bad idea to have it blasted since its got moving parts that wont take to having sand around them and cause trouble.

Once I get the axle unbolted from the frame what is the best approach to getting it prepped for paint, and things to avoid? There is a vent that needs to get plugged up so nothing gets in or out as I have it removed and work with it.

A few years back I had removed the cover and replaced the gear oil and sealed it with RTV, but other than that Ive done nothing else to it.

[TJ's Chevy]

I've seen many axles sandblasted so I don't really see the problem...though I'd sandblast it and then replace the axle seals at least. I did mine with a wire brush sander. Mind you there will be spots that will be a pain to get to, but with patience and persistence you can do it. I wish I blasted mine though. The many hours of prep put into my frame would have been 1/4 the time had I just blasted it.

[msg]

If blasting it is safe I would rather do that, but with moving parts I figured sand would just get into spots that would mess things up. I need to also remove the tires from the rims and remove the drums to get everything as restored as possible. Figured asking the gang would help me learn from others experiences with stuff like this cause its all new to me.

[c20 diesel]

If You sand blast ,take off the wheels LEAVE the brake drums.
use a couple of lug nuts to hold the drums in place.
that way the drums , will keep the sand away from the wheel seal.
use several wraps of duct tape around , the out side of the drum & the backing
and the penion yoke flange. tape up the vent. plug up the brake fitting.

[BigDan3131]

I wouldn't leave it all together since you have only changed the gear oil. Blow it apart, by now all the seals should be replaced as well as the bearings. Don't skip a step during a restoration it can come back to bite you in the *ss later on.

[msg]

Thanks for the replies on this, Ive gotten closer to removing it. I have the coils removed and now found that the 1- 1/16 socket I have isnt deep enough to get the u bolt removed yet so time for tool shopping. Thought about just getting the sawzall and cutting it loose and buying replacement ubolts.

Once I get it loose and rolled out I will plan then to prep it as C20 Diesel described and then after the blast see what I can do with the axle seals and bearings but I have no experience with that sort of thing.

Is this something I should turn over to a shop?
I was searching around for how to's and wasnt sure if my rear axle matches up to what Ive seen. Someone had shortened the frame on this and I dont know if the axle is original or not.

Its a 12 bolt with E176 stamped lower right. From the other side (looking at the axle from the transmission) it reads 3856525 at the top right and on the tube what I think is a date stamp reads HA 06 02 W

Years back when I replaced the gear oil and gasket these numbers were stamped on the ring gear

3817778 11 41 GM 5 66 2

I recall that 11 and 41 were the numbers to use from that to ID the gear ratio.
41 div by 11 giving me 3.727 (3.73)

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by msg

. . . . . it reads 3856525 at the top right and on the tube what I think is a date stamp reads HA 06 02 W. . . . . . . . 41 div by 11 giving me 3.727 (3.73)

Those same numbers are on my original 1965 rear and I have a 3.73. So you probably have the original rear.

After removing all the brake stuff and the backing plates, I removed the rear diff cover. A buddy showed me how to remove the C clips and the spider gears inside. Too long ago for me to help you with instructions. Then the axles slid out or each end. Popped the seals out and used a seal driver from HF to install new ones after everything had a good cleaning. I did not change my pinion seal. Figured I'd leave that one alone for now. I'd recommend having someone with experience supervise the disassembly and reassembly if you have never done one. Mine works fine but I was glad to have my buddy walk me through it.

[msg]

Thanks Lugnutz for checking the numbers, good to know its likely original!
After the feedback I got I am planning to have it blasted and have a local shop that I use do the seal and bearings replacements after its blasted and painted. This weekend I took the wheels off and popped of the drums to see if there is any way to remove the backplate of the drums but it doesnt seem possible. Months ago I dismantled all the parts I could from the drums and boxed them up, but plan to just replace with all new parts.

Let me know if this sounds right to you guys.

I take the drums to get blasted with the brake surface area duct taped to keep from getting profiled.
Tape the yoke flange area at the point where sand can enter
Tape the top of the vent tube
Tape the area where the seals and bearings are at each end of the axle