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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 66
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and the nightmares continue
i just installed a 350 4 bolt engine(pro built longblock with gear drive and 9-1 compression not sure on actual cam size) in my 67(used to be a 283)and then all hell breaks loose. first the water pump didnt clear the new timing gear well with a few spacers i managed to get it to fit. secondly the 2bbl linkage didnt fit up to the new Edelbrock thunder 650 carb not to mention the the choke cable is too short (damnit i knew i should have gotton an electric choke) now that its in and running i'm having a real issue with the engine temp the guage says its still ok, but if you open the hood that engine is hotter than hell after only 15 driving i know i need a new rad. the current one has a small pinhole leak(crappy 2 core)but i dont believe the rad. is the whole problem any ideas or suggestion would be welcomed at this point
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67 C/20 camper special 350 |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: From Chicago, Live in Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 6,802
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I learned that if the engines timing is to retarded, it can make the engine run hot enough to make the exhaust manifolds glow orange!
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Just sitting here contemplating contemplation. |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 66
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ttt
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67 C/20 camper special 350 |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Seattle WA
Posts: 1,466
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Mello,
See if you can borrow (or buy if you want) a temp probe...I would check the actual temperature of the motor....or put a new guage and sending unit in. Changing motors like this can be a pain....you think you have thought of everything but these little gremlins have a habit of popping up. Timing has a lot to do with heat build up...it might be worth checking...since the motor is new did you flush the cooling system? I would check the actual temperature of the motor and then if it is okay start with getting the old radiator out...
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FocuzTech Performance Evergreen Protective Coatings Gatorhyde...the best kept secret in spray in bed lining & protection |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: daytonabeach
Posts: 22,956
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in my opinion one of the most foolish things you can do is use an old radiator with a new engine!!! you've got the radiator out and drained while changing the engine all that crap in the radiator has a chance to dry out and powder up then you put it into a brand new motor fill with liquid and boom all that crap is finding it's way into your freshly cleaned block!!! you might also want to run the engine the first 500miles of so without a thermo to make sure your not getting air blockage in the block. as far as the little stuff like the linkage to the carb and choke cable that's just little nonscence that needs to be done PART OF THE GAME!!
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71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY |
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#6 |
Inline 69
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: valleysprings,california
Posts: 1,018
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im alittle confused why you had too put spacers on your water pump to clear your timing cover,gear drive will fit into a stock 350 timing cover,are you sure you didnt put your 283 water pump on your 350???????
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#7 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
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A 283 water pump would be the same as a 350 pump. THe gear drive and cover was probably designed to fit under a long pump like every car since 69 had instead of the short pump that his truck most likely still had when he did the engine swap.
As for the engine heat, are you running headers now and ram horn manifolds before? That would create LOTS of underhood heat. You can get a lazer temp probe, they aren't real cheap, but they are awsome for trouble shooting thing like which cylinder is missing, where a rad is clogged, the actuall temp of your coolant...ect. They run bout 100 bucks at NAPA and I'm sure the snap on guy sells them for more. Maybe i oughta check out sears and see what they want for one. |
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 66
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the shop that built my longblock sold me on a billet cloyes timing cover to house my new gear drive and i was assured that my reman'd waterpump(short) would fit well it didnt
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67 C/20 camper special 350 |
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: daytonabeach
Posts: 22,956
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the other thing you can do to cut down on underhood heat buildup is go with a set of the ceramic coated headers
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71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY |
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#10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Gower, MO.
Posts: 219
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Why didn't you swap in a 4 core while you were at it? Whats the thermostat temp? Has the actual cooling system been flushed? And last one, what mixture of water/antifreeze are you using?
Nice name ![]()
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If patience is truely a virtue, Then I am so screwed 1970 Chevy SWB 331 sbc and all the goodies. Under resurection 2001 Vette |
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#11 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 66
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i did have my rad flushed and pressure checked well it was done by the same crappy machine shop that built my engine it was fine before they checked it and when i got it back and it leaks i would love a new 4 core but after 4200 bux in engine work and nice new parts it leaves me with empty pockets till the 1st......
![]() btw its nice to see there are other melloyello types out there ![]() oh yeah i was using straight h20 then switched to 50/50 mix after the engine got so damn hot mind you it only took 15 minutes for it to get this way...and yes i let it cool down before i mixed it ![]()
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67 C/20 camper special 350 Last edited by melloyello; 05-26-2003 at 07:27 PM. |
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#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 66
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i did have my rad flushed and pressure checked well it was done by the same crappy machine shop that built my engine it was fine before they checked it and when i got it back and it leaks i would love a new 4 core but after 4200 bux in engine work and nice new parts it leaves me with empty pockets till the 1st......
![]() btw its nice to see there are other melloyello types out there ![]()
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67 C/20 camper special 350 |
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Amazonia, Mo. USA
Posts: 2,821
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Professionally done? They forgot the seal? I'm sorry but that just don't compute.
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72 3/4 4x4 350 4spd 72 3/4 4x4 350 auto 2004 Duramax Silverado 4x4 2006 Duramax Crew cab 4x4 2010 Harley Ultra Limited 2011 Harley Street Glide |
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#14 |
Inline 69
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: valleysprings,california
Posts: 1,018
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*****longhorn***** you said , QUOTE="A 283 water pump would be the same as a 350 pump". I DIS-AGREE,a 283CI AND 327CI are the same block,the "main" difference is the bore and stroke,A 350CI is a totally different casting
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#15 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Melville, SK
Posts: 1,145
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Umm, I'm not much of an engine guy but don't the 350 and 327 both have a 4" bore with the 327 having a smaller stroke, and then the 350 and 283 have the same stroke (3.48)? I thought I heard somewhere that the 327 and 350 actually shared the 3970010 block........
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2004 Silverado - Beater 1969 GMC - In progress http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=441683 2011 Aveo - Work commuter 2013 Crestliner Fish Hawk 1650 - The reason no work gets done on the project truck. |
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#16 |
Inline 69
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: valleysprings,california
Posts: 1,018
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cylinder bore on a 350 is 3.9995-4.0025,,,,,,,,let me check the rest,,,maybe i owe longhorn a beer
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#17 |
Inline 69
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: valleysprings,california
Posts: 1,018
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350 stroke IS 3.48
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#18 |
Registered Cruiser
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Las Vegas NV
Posts: 2,230
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I had a 283 in my truck. Although living in the desert the motor never ran warm. I had a three core radiator. After I replaced the engine with a moderatly built 350 it wouldn't cool for squat. I immediatly replaced the radiator with a four core and even though it still ran warmer than the 283 the problem was solved.
$4,200 in motor work. That should buy an awful lot of SBC I hope you got your moneys worth
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I intend to live forever. So far, so good. |
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#19 |
Inline 69
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: valleysprings,california
Posts: 1,018
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SORRY=====i guess ive been "inhaling" to many "fumes" this weekend,and everything came out "bass-akwards"
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#20 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: escondido, ca 92026
Posts: 1,222
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cheap way to check engine temp is to use a kitchen thermometer down the throat of the radiator, they're about 6 bucks at the grocery store... I used one to trouble shoot what turned out to be a faulty temp gauge, and also to adjust when the electric fan kicks on..
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'72 short step, 350, 700R4, tilt, ps, pdb, a/c, lowered coils, etc., other work in progress... San Diego, CA 72 Stepside Project |
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#21 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 104
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I can't tell how well your engine is running, but with a new larger carb make sure your fuel pressure and flow is up to par, a lean condition could cause your engine to heat up as well.
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#22 |
CCRider
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Olive Branch,MS,USA
Posts: 2,232
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If the motor is making any horsepower at all a two core just won't cut it. Get a four core and all your heat problems will go away.
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72 GMC Sierra SWB almost finished---- 84 Softail Olive Branch MS |
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#23 |
Spank 'em if you got 'em!
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 628
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After my rebuild I thought the engine compartment was awfully hot also. I think the smell of the paint baking on (and off) as well as my smoking oil covered manifolds (another story) made it seem worse than it was. If you take it in to the shop you might consider having them diagnose and then you fix it yourself. Just make sure they don't blame you for something going wrong with the rebuild. Good Luck!
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Long Knight '71 C-20, 350ci, TH350, Edl. 1406 Carb w/elec.choke, Ignitor ignition, Viper Tires, Orange Dipstick |
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#24 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 2,181
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Here's an interesting question:
If we all agree the engine is running too hot, why isn't the thermostat registering that? Remember he said in his first post that the thermostat registers just fine! Mello, is it possible that your temperature sender isn't working right? You DID install it clean into the block (without teflon tape or schmooie) right? If his sender is working correctly, and his engine ISN'T getting too hot, what could account for all the extra heat in the compartment? Brian |
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#25 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 104
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The only thing that it could be with the engine not hot, but has excess heat is rich condition with remaining fuel burning as it gets into the header. If this were the case you would have glowing headers that would not last too long.
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