Camper Mirror location reference - and gasket/sealer question (for mirrors)

[jocko]

Transferring camper mirror mount locations from an original door to my 'new' driver's side door. Thought I'd share the measurements I took for ref if you need them. Note, I would NOT drill all the holes before mounting - I plan to drill the upper forward mount hole, then place a level on the bracket and drill the remaining two - using the reference marks just to QA the process. I'll also put an erasable mark (probably on blue painter's tape) for the lowers and see how they line up before drilling. Anyway, this is where they go. Note the upper hole vertical reference is from the upper straight body line of the door - hopefully apparent in the pictures.

Btw, does anyone know if any gasket or sealer material was placed between the mirror mount and the door itself? My truck had some funky goop that I doubt was factory, so just wanted to ask. Thanks.

[nobolt]

thanks Jocko!
those will come in handy! saving this one for sure

[special-K]

Great reference. Nothing was used to seal the mirrors,but it's not a bad idea. Although I've never had a known rust issue from water going in the screw holes on a 67-72,my '93 has camper mirrors and the passenger side lower arm mounting location is rusting out. The trucks are shipped w/o mirrors mounted and the dealer installs

[da-burb]

I have seen some mirrors mounted with rubber washers insulating them from riding directly on the door. My body guy used a 1/8" thin double stick foam tape on the back side of the mirror brackets but we didn't remove the second release liner when attaching them.

[jocko]

Thx all. Although the mirror on my original door is original, along with the holes pictured, a po had them off once for a (lousy!) repaint. Appeared to have some home brew sealer insulating it, assumed non-standard. I'd be cautious with only rubber washers because the tiny amount of standoff would place all the stress at the 3 bolt hole locations in the door vice spreading that load across the whole flat upper bracket - might possibly increase the risk of tearout or distortion if someone puts too much force on the mirror. Strip adhesive probably best as mentioned. I'm gonna leave mine as the factory did, probably won't see much rain here in the desert (thx Tim for the factory answer, that's what I was looking for). Thx again all, appreciate the help.
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[Bigdav160]

Are the measurements the same for the drivers side mirror?

Believe it or not, Corvette restoration guys have been using Moretite caulking around convertible windshield headers and trim. They claim it's close to what the factory was using.

[jocko]

Originally Posted by Bigdav160

Are the measurements the same for the drivers side mirror?

Believe it or not, Corvette restoration guys have been using Moretite caulking around convertible windshield headers and trim. They claim it's close to what the factory was using.

Yes, I assume they are exactly the same as the brackets are symmetric. But, I am measuring the pass side in order to mark my driver's side (on a non-camper door replacement), so can't answer that definitively other than to say I sure hope so!! If that's not the case, someone pls chime in, yikes!

[DeadheadNM]

Originally Posted by jocko

Yes, I assume they are exactly the same as the brackets are symmetric. But, I am measuring the pass side in order to mark my driver's side (on a non-camper door replacement), so can't answer that definitively other than to say I sure hope so!! If that's not the case, someone pls chime in, yikes!

Bet you are correct but Blazer "sport" mirrors mount in slightly different locations LH vs. RH....odd fact of the day

[SS Tim]

Be worth checking an assembly manual or another truck before blowing holes.

[SS Tim]

Well, here are the drawings in the assembly manual.
The RH mirror is close to what you have measured there jocko. As late as it is I will let you do the conversions.

Now the LH mirror is shown to be 2" forward of the right side. But as always there is a glitch. If you look at the lower forward holes, we have a disparity. The RH is 5.44" and the LH is 3.89"!

So work out the 0.45" before you drill as there may be an internal conflict.

Did a side by each of a 71 DF2 Cheyenne for reference and it clearly shows a difference.

[jocko]

Originally Posted by SS Tim

Well, here are the drawings in the assembly manual.
The RH mirror is close to what you have measured there jocko. As late as it is I will let you do the conversions.

Now the LH mirror is shown to be 2" forward of the right side. But as always there is a glitch. If you look at the lower forward holes, we have a disparity. The RH is 5.44" and the LH is 3.89"!

So work out the 0.45" before you drill as there may be an internal conflict.

Did a side by each of a 71 DF2 Cheyenne for reference and it clearly shows a difference.

Well Hmmm... Can anyone that actually has both original mirrors on their truck go take a quick measurement to the upper forward bolt hole on driver and passenger doors and let me know if they are indeed 2" different?

Wow, I'm glad I asked this question - only had a passenger door to go on.

My GUESS is that the mounting locations are different because of line-of-sight through the vent windows. Makes sense that the passenger side is further aft in order to avoid it being partially blocked by the vertical vent window edge.

Appreciate anyone's time if they could take a quick peek.

Thanks again Tim (good save) and Tim (Special K, concur, the fwd upper hole is the key, get that one right, then place a level to get the other two, then let the legs fall where they may - approximate to factory drawings), appreciate both of your input! VERY helpful.

[special-K]

The factory mounting on my '72 GMC for the lower forward arm location is 4" L.H. and 5.34" R.H. I don't think the workers were too exact with hundreds of inches. To me,I'd be most concerned with the upper mount location and let the lowers go where they align best. That's how I've always mounted them on "fresh" doors.

[SS Tim]

Since this seems to have fallen by the wayside here are the drawings notated to fractions. That should make for easy tape measure comparisons of existing DF2 installations.

[67swb72klb]

my black 72 did not have any sealer or rubber washers between the mirror and the truck

[jocko]

Originally Posted by 67swb72klb

my black 72 did not have any sealer or rubber washers between the mirror and the truck

are those nutserts?? I didn't notice the first time I looked at your pic - were the mirrors bolted into those (nutserts) or screwed in with screws (factory)?

Interesting.

[67swb72klb]

Originally Posted by jocko

are those nutserts?? I didn't notice the first time I looked at your pic - were the mirrors bolted into those (nutserts) or screwed in with screws (factory)?

Interesting.

yes rivnuts or what ever they called them back then w/stainless bolt too
it is an oshawa built truck

[dads longhorn]

Jocko, I have original camper mirrors on dads truck and ill go measure them tonight when I get home from work. Ill àlso try to get up a picture or two. Even so, between the two Tim's information, I'd say you have all you need
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[Steve Hafner]

. . . .

During my 70 C-10's restoration, a piece of inner tube was cut and put under all of the parts that touched between the doors and my camper mirrors.

[slikside]

Originally Posted by special-K

Great reference. Nothing was used to seal the mirrors,but it's not a bad idea. Although I've never had a known rust issue from water going in the screw holes on a 67-72,my '93 has camper mirrors and the passenger side lower arm mounting location is rusting out. The trucks are shipped w/o mirrors mounted and the dealer installs

Originally Posted by da-burb

I have seen some mirrors mounted with rubber washers insulating them from riding directly on the door. My body guy used a 1/8" thin double stick foam tape on the back side of the mirror brackets but we didn't remove the second release liner when attaching them.

Originally Posted by Steve Hafner

. . . .

During my 70 C-10's restoration, a piece of inner tube was cut and put under all of the parts that touched between the doors and my camper mirrors.

I know it isn't "factory", but...I used some small, thin vinyl washers to insulate/seal (the screw holes in the door. My mirrors (D29 below eye-line) have no metal-to-metal contact with my door now. Think I got them at Ace Hardware. Got the idea when I replaced the bigger vinyl washers up where the mirror head mounts to the support arm.

[jocko]

Thanks dads longhorn, much appreciated. Look fwd to hearing back when you return. Thks for the math Tim! Pretty sure the drawings tell the tale, but appreciate the coordination and folks' on-truck measurements to confirm. Your pic makes it look like the factory drawings are probably the answer.

67swb and Steve - thank you! Am guessing stock is without but done have wisely insulated when the chance presented itself. I'm on the fence, but leaning toward gasket-less.
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[Steve Hafner]

Originally Posted by jocko

Thanks dads longhorn, much appreciated. Look fwd to hearing back when you return. Thks for the math Tim! Pretty sure the drawings tell the tale, but appreciate the coordination and folks' on-truck measurements to confirm. Your pic makes it look like the factory drawings are probably the answer.

67swb and Steve - thank you! Am guessing stock is without but done have wisely insulated when the chance presented itself. I'm on the fence, but leaning toward gasket-less.
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. . . .

I can't even see out of my camper mirrors when driving down the road at more then thirty mile per hour . . .

They vibrate pretty bad . . .

I was worried that all that vibration would eventually nick the paint and cause rust.

I rely mostly on the spot mirrors I had installed - they don't vibrate at all.

. . . .

[nobolt]

They vibrate pretty bad . . .

you might try a piece of dynamat or something similar stuck to the inside of the door skin.
it did wonders for an excavator friend of mine.

Jocko - sorry for the hijack

[dads longhorn]

Jocko, I measured to the first hole and on the drivers side it's 6.5" , passanger side it's 8.25". I put the ruler on the horizontal support for the mirror that you can see in SSTims post and measured sideways from there to the edge of the door. My measurements are very close to what SSTim posted. The difference may just be due to my measurement technique.
My mirrors vibrate some and there's no "stuff" between the mirror supports and the door. Sounds like a good idea to me though.
I don't see any other holes in the door for mirror support screws so I'm pretty sure they're in the original location.

No photos needed of mine, didn't really even need to post measurements either since there's already enough excellent posts on here to answer your question. I thought I'd just give you one more point of reference. Hope it helps
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[jocko]

dads longhorn, THANKS for measuring. Very helpful, pretty much confirmed that the factory followed their own book (and thanks for sharing Tim).

Slikside - thanks for sharing. One note though, the upper brace should be entirely in contact with the door surface (either directly or with a long flat gasket if one desires) in order to have maximum strength and in order to prevent premature pullout if some 4 year old were to suddenly practice gymnastics on one of the mirrors. Might hold, but it's stronger with the entire length of the upper bar in contact with the door, i.e. flat. By your post, I'm assuming you put your washers between that horizontal bar and the body(?) If that's not the case, then no worries, disregard.