Drip Rail - Seam Sealer or Body Filler

[BrianG]

I am really having a bad day.

My truck is in the body shop, it has been there for the last several months. It
is getting close to being done. I just found out today that the guy who I've been dealing with, no longer works there. Lots of worry and questions in my head right now. So, one of the guys who is now working on it, is "finishing" up working on the drip rail. He said he decided to use "Plastic" (his words) instead of seam seal because (again in his words) "if the old seam sealer cracked and went bad once, it would probably again". So, I said, I thought you were going to use that auto leveling seam sealer. But of course, I've been dealing with some one different all along, and this all happened without any knowledge to me or any conversations. Anyhow, So, I asked him... By Plastic, do you mean body filler? He said yes, and showed me the 2K stuff. He claimed it will hold up and be better than the seam sealer. Whatever.

So, my question to all of you that would know more than I do (and maybe my new body man) about this subject.... Will "Plastic" or Body filler work in replacement of auto leveling seam sealer for around the drip line about the doors and windshield?

Your help would be greatly appreciated.

[leddzepp]

I'm pretty sure body filler will crack when used as a seam sealer. You need something flexible in there.

[Bagd72Chevy]

The body filler will crack. Seam sealer, autoleveling or not is the correct thing to use. Sure it will dry out and crack again but in another 50 years. Maybe longer as todays urethane clear coats are much more resilient to environmental factors than the ename/laquer of the 60's.

[67swb72klb]

no body filler no way!! if that body guy is doing something like that I would keep him away from your truck

[BrianG]

So, Just so I have some informed information when I go back in there... What can I tell him for as to the reason why it will crack? I did look at it, and he did only put a very thin 'layer' of body filler in there. Also, he said that he's done this before.

Like I said, I'm kinda beside myself right now because I've been dealing with one guy since the beginning. Now its someone new. I went with this place because of the guy who WAS working on it.

I hate this sort of thing. I find it hard to argue with someone when I'm not a body guy and he is.

I really respect all of the opinions and information that I get on this site. That's why I visit here so often and asked you all.

[Bagd72Chevy]

The seams move. The body filler is too stiff and will crack. Make sure they did not fill the cab seam along the back of the roof with filler either because it will crack right out.

[RManson]

I wouldn't argue with him for 5 seconds if it were my money, my truck and I had the slightest inkling that he's not doing something the way I wanted it done. Better to take your truck elsewhere I think.

The seams will move, filler will crack, and allow moisture to enter under the paint/bodywork. We all know what happens next...

[67ChevyRedneck]

It absolutely moves. An easy vehicle to see when this was done incorrectly (and I see this all the time as I'm IN a Mustang club as well) is 65/66 mustang coupes. There's a seam that runs from the rear window to the trunk. Only about 4" long. I see so many cars with cracked out bondo, it's kind of funny/sad. It's supposed to just have a bead of sealer in there.

[litew8]

If it were me, I'd go in there and talk with the manager/owner. I would tell them "THIS IS WHAT I WANT", not what you are recommending. 3M self leveling, NOT bondo/filler.





It needs a primed/prepped surface before being applied.

[70shortfleet]

I did this myself, used SEM self leveling. It was pretty easy to work with, 1st time I attempted this. I wouldn't use plastic but that's just me

[BrianG]

I talked to the new (or he says always been) owner of the shop. He said that the guy working on it will 'probably' also put in self leveling seam sealer. The "plastic" was really thin... I guess, I don't really get why he even messed with it. I'll keep on top of the situation and make sure they do it right. Thanks for all you're input

[litew8]

If it were me, I'd tell them to remove the bondo/filler. Prime, scuff, then self leveling. That's what we did above and is the correct procedure. Turned out great.

[special-K]

Isn't the problem with body putty that it cracks? Isn't that why OEM uses seam sealer that lastes decades of daily outside use in all climates? Aren't there better products for this application available, now, 40+ years later? Ask him these questions and see what he says. Then let him know you are spending a lot of money here and seam sealer is what you want and that you will specify which one since you'll have to live with it and he doesn't seem to be knowledgeable on the topic (if he gives you any grief)

[sboris]

Seam sealer is made specificaly for this kind of application. Why would anybody even consider anything else? Sounds like this dude is a short cutter to me. I would keep a close eye for sure on the rest of it. And agree with others, i would want that all ground out.
Also seems silly is, wouldnt the filler be more work?? Shaping and such. The seam sealer lays down so easy...

[BrianG]

Originally Posted by sboris

Seam sealer is made specificaly for this kind of application. Why would anybody even consider anything else? Sounds like this dude is a short cutter to me. I would keep a close eye for sure on the rest of it. And agree with others, i would want that all ground out.
Also seems silly is, wouldnt the filler be more work?? The seam sealer lays down so easy...

Yeah, he told me he has spent 'hours' sanding it smooth. I did look up there at it. There wasn't really much there. I'm not sure what the rail looks like completely cleaned out, but it basically looks like where he is at, at this point is just similar to what you would do over a welded seam where you patched a panel or something similar to that. It still makes me worried with any at all in there, if its going to crack and cause issues. I'm having some communication issues with the owner of the shop and the workers at this point I believe. The guy I've dealt with all along said that he was part owner, but I honestly have no idea what is or was true. I've read so many horror stories of paint shop or body shop nightmares... never thought I'd be living one.

[sboris]

Good luck!!

[aris_unlimited]

My body guy uses seam sealer for all kinds of stuff lol. He loves it, I think it is more durable than bondo would be in quite a few situations.

[54blackhornet]

OK we all agree on seam sealer ! Can someone walk thru the proper procedure for applying it ? Do you start in center of windshield and let it flow out toward the drop behind the doors ? I would like to do this before the rain season begins again

[70shortfleet]

Originally Posted by 54blackhornet

OK we all agree on seam sealer ! Can someone walk thru the proper procedure for applying it ? Do you start in center of windshield and let it flow out toward the drop behind the doors ? I would like to do this before the rain season begins again

Watch this one

SYF: Project Wrongside, Seam Sealing the Drip...

[litew8]

Originally Posted by 54blackhornet

OK we all agree on seam sealer ! Can someone walk thru the proper procedure for applying it ? Do you start in center of windshield and let it flow out toward the drop behind the doors ? I would like to do this before the rain season begins again

As mentioned before, prime (bare or near), scuff, seam seal. The 3M products I've used were OK I thought. Never before using, there was an immediate learning curve throughout. More in understanding the flow rate of the application. 3M seemed slightly more fluid than expected. I applied like caulking and adjusted flow where needed. Once it crested at 1/4 I'd slowly run the rail. I used the more fluid 3M along the [top] of the cab and the lesser along the vertical (behind the doors). That's my personal description and I'm not a body shop, which should understand such things. To do it yourself, you may need to acquire the proper gun. It's a two part mixture if I remember correctly (for the 3M product(s)).

OP: If it were me, I'd pull it from there and if they refuse, call the cops. If they removed the bodo/filler, you should be able to discern. Bare metal or bare metal covered with primer. The seam is noticeable.

[chevy1970c10]

OK so i see all the drip rails with pictures of the horizontal sections with seam sealer but what about the vertical sections how did those turn out with the self leveling seam sealer? I just purchased the 3m 08329 controlled flow seam sealer, that will run about 1 1/2- 2" on a 45deg vertical surface and self leveling hope it works out.

[litew8]

Same used in other areas





more in my build thread link below

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by BrianG

I am really having a bad day.

He said he decided to use "Plastic" (his words) instead of seam seal because (again in his words) "if the old seam sealer cracked and went bad once, it would probably again".
Your help would be greatly appreciated.

You need to speak to the manager of that shop. "Plastic" will crack and leak, seam sealer will last, oh, 40 years or so. If the shop owner won't have that hack job cleaned up get your truck out of his shop.

[BigDaddyV]

I'm with everyone else. I used Sikaflex which is a industrial grade sealer. Its been used in the bus industry for many years and does really well. I'm sure is is very simular to the 3m stuff.

[old Chevy guy]

Also if the guy says he spent hours sanding the filler, tell him you don't want to pay him for the time he spent doing it wrong. Where did your guy you were dealing with go? Any chance of tracking him down and getting him to finish it at his new place of employment?