Cmon Already - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

danho · 03-03-2004, 01:35 AM

I hooked up the wiring like you guys suggested, purple to "s" on starter, red resistor to HEI and ground to block.
I got nothing.
Any ideas on what I need to check?
My other thread has more detailed info if this is your first time looking.
Dan.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...threadid=93304

*rage'nrat638* · 03-03-2004, 01:55 AM

well if your useing a hei you can not use the resistor wire
you won't get full 12 volts......you need a hot wire from the switched fuse box

*rage'nrat638* · 03-03-2004, 02:02 AM

just run a wire from the battery and see if that starts it....

the resistor wire must go if using a HEI

danho · 03-03-2004, 02:11 AM

Are you talking about running a jumper wire from the battery to the HEI? Cause I got nothing, no headlights, no power to the fuse panel...nothing.
I'm somewhat electrically challenged so could this be the problem or is it something bigger?
Dan.

avejoe · 03-03-2004, 02:13 AM

Make sure your bat is charged and the terminal connections are clean and tight.

**kwmech** · 03-03-2004, 02:16 AM

Sounds like you missed a wire at the batt. post of the starter

*rage'nrat638* · 03-03-2004, 02:21 AM

OK....
YOU SHOULD HAVE ONE BIG RED POSITIVE CABLE GOING TO THE STARTER......
YOU SHOULD HAVE A LITTLE RED WIRE RIGHT NEXT TO THE BATTERY....THAT GOES TO THE POSITIVE TERMINAL AS WELL....
THATS THE HEAD LIGHTS....

AND ONE BIG BLACK NEG. CABLE GOING TO THE BLOCK...GROUND

THEN....THERE SHOULD BE A WIRE THAT GOES TO THE SMALL STARTER TERMINALS....LITTLE FOGGY ON THE COLOR...
IS THERE TWO OR ONE THERE?
ANYWAY THATS YOUR KEYSWITCH POWER....AND FUSE BOX

AND OF COURSE THE 12 VOLT WIRE TO THE HEI POSITIVE TERMINAL..ON THE CAP....YOU DO HAVE THE OTHER PLUG FROM THE HEI BASE PLUGGED IN ...RIGHT??
THAT SHOULD JUST ABOUT DO IT......

AND OF COURSE GROUND STRAPS FROM THE BLOCK TO THE FRAME

Longhorn Man · 03-03-2004, 08:14 AM

Actually ragenrat...that wire feeds all the electrical stuff in the whole truck.
Do you have the red wire that goes to the little junction block about 12 inches back on the passenger fender?

danho · 03-03-2004, 11:23 AM

I don't have any red wires going to the junction block. What do I need to do here Andy?

And Ragenrat, I'm a little confused about-
"YOU SHOULD HAVE A LITTLE RED WIRE RIGHT NEXT TO THE BATTERY....THAT GOES TO THE POSITIVE TERMINAL AS WELL.... "

Are you talking about the same thing as Andy?

And lastly, there are no grounding straps from the motor to the frame, I do have 4 little ones though. 2 go to the firewall from the valve cover bolts and 2 go from the frame to the inner fenders which I haven't put back on the truck yet.

Dan.

**kwmech** · 03-03-2004, 11:29 AM

There should be a small pigtail wire going from the pos. batt term to the small junction block on the fender. And yes ALL the ground wires should be installed. The factory put them there for a reason.

J.Lance · 03-03-2004, 11:48 AM

From the battery...you'll have your normal positive and negative cables. Also, you should have about a 12 gauge wire from the positive terminal to a junction block screwed to the inside of the passenger fender near the battery. Another red wire should be attached to this block as well and continues into the harness that runs across the top of the radiator support over to the drivers side. At this point the wire will split and run to the regulator, altenator, and then continue through the driver side fender to the right half of the fuse block going into the firewall.

On the left hand side of the fuse block coming out of the firewall, you'll have the purple wire and the resistor wire. The purple wire supplys 12 volts to the starter to turn it over. The resistor wire runs in the gutter above the firewall and splits into two yellow wires near the passenger side of the gutter. One yellow wire goes to the coil and the other to the starter solenoid. On a standard distributor, this allows a full 12 volts to flow to the coil when starting the motor and then after it starts and power is cut from the starter, it reverts back to the resistor wire supplying approx. 6 to 7 volts (not sure) to the coil.

That being said...do not use the resistor wire for the HEI. Easiest method is to look on your fuse block and find a non-fused terminal for keyed ingnition (i.e. radio) and run a wire directly from there to the BAT terminal on the HEI. Leave the yellow wire disconnected from the terminal on the starter solenoid. If you want a cleaner install (this is what I do), remove the resistor wire with yellow wires attached from the loom all together. This will involve removing the mail connector from the fuse block plug. Go down to NAPA as they sell the correct male connector to go back into the junction on the fuse block and run a new wire from that point to the HEI.

I really don't know why you're lights wouldn't even work on the last try? My guess is you didn't have that 12 gauge wire hooked up to the junction block near the battery?? Good luck!

Jason

crazy4chevs · 03-03-2004, 03:41 PM

heres a pic and a diagram of what they are talking about.

crazy4chevs · 03-03-2004, 03:45 PM

diagram

danho · 03-05-2004, 01:41 PM

Thanks for all the help guys, I couldn't have got it running without you. The problem was the wire from the positive to the junction block on the passenger fender.
Started it up and it sounded good for a few minutes until the radiator sprung a leak. Should get my new one today and hopefully be up and driving it by Sunday.

Thanks again, Dan.

Tx Firefighter · 03-05-2004, 02:12 PM

Danho, you really need to put a fusible link there, rather than just a length of plain wire. That fusible link could make the difference between your truck burning to the ground or not.

A fusible link is just a length of wire that will melt in two if there is ever a short somewhere. It's basicaly a fuse. They are available at any parts store.

SCOTI · 03-05-2004, 02:18 PM

Another option is an updated version of the fusible link that actually is a blade style fuse that can be replaced if shorted.

J.Lance · 03-05-2004, 02:34 PM

I wouldn't mind converting to a replacable fuse myself. What amperage fuse would I use??

danho · 03-05-2004, 03:05 PM

Great info, I'm with J.Lance on this one. So what amperage if I use an inline fuse?

Dan.

Longhorn Man · 03-06-2004, 02:06 AM

I can't remember where I got it from, but my notes say 30 amp.

03-03-2004, 01:35 AM	#1
danho Pesemistic Optimist Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Prineville, Oregon Posts: 227	Cmon Already I hooked up the wiring like you guys suggested, purple to "s" on starter, red resistor to HEI and ground to block. I got nothing. Any ideas on what I need to check? My other thread has more detailed info if this is your first time looking. Dan. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...threadid=93304

03-03-2004, 11:48 AM	#11
J.Lance Too many is never enough! Join Date: May 2003 Location: Idaho Falls, ID Posts: 455	Let me try! From the battery...you'll have your normal positive and negative cables. Also, you should have about a 12 gauge wire from the positive terminal to a junction block screwed to the inside of the passenger fender near the battery. Another red wire should be attached to this block as well and continues into the harness that runs across the top of the radiator support over to the drivers side. At this point the wire will split and run to the regulator, altenator, and then continue through the driver side fender to the right half of the fuse block going into the firewall. On the left hand side of the fuse block coming out of the firewall, you'll have the purple wire and the resistor wire. The purple wire supplys 12 volts to the starter to turn it over. The resistor wire runs in the gutter above the firewall and splits into two yellow wires near the passenger side of the gutter. One yellow wire goes to the coil and the other to the starter solenoid. On a standard distributor, this allows a full 12 volts to flow to the coil when starting the motor and then after it starts and power is cut from the starter, it reverts back to the resistor wire supplying approx. 6 to 7 volts (not sure) to the coil. That being said...do not use the resistor wire for the HEI. Easiest method is to look on your fuse block and find a non-fused terminal for keyed ingnition (i.e. radio) and run a wire directly from there to the BAT terminal on the HEI. Leave the yellow wire disconnected from the terminal on the starter solenoid. If you want a cleaner install (this is what I do), remove the resistor wire with yellow wires attached from the loom all together. This will involve removing the mail connector from the fuse block plug. Go down to NAPA as they sell the correct male connector to go back into the junction on the fuse block and run a new wire from that point to the HEI. I really don't know why you're lights wouldn't even work on the last try? My guess is you didn't have that 12 gauge wire hooked up to the junction block near the battery?? Good luck! Jason __________________ Jason 1968 K10 SWB Fleetside 1971 K2500 GMC LWB 1968 K20 (later frame, donor body) 1972 C20 LWB parts truck 1993 K2500 Suburban, tow rig, 454, 4L80E NEW!! 18' Siem's car hauler 2004 Honda Odyssey (family man!) Last edited by J.Lance; 03-03-2004 at 11:51 AM.

03-03-2004, 03:41 PM	#12
crazy4chevs Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Des Moines WA. (Kent, area) Posts: 668	pic heres a pic and a diagram of what they are talking about. Attached Images __________________ 70 chev c10 swb fleet 72 grill, sb 400, 2/4 drop. 68 chev c10 swb fleet Early classic 4/6 drop with 4wheel disc brakes 9"rear 67-8 buckets tilt and A/C Classic GM Truck Club of Washington .

03-03-2004, 03:45 PM	#13
crazy4chevs Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Des Moines WA. (Kent, area) Posts: 668	diagram Attached Images __________________ 70 chev c10 swb fleet 72 grill, sb 400, 2/4 drop. 68 chev c10 swb fleet Early classic 4/6 drop with 4wheel disc brakes 9"rear 67-8 buckets tilt and A/C Classic GM Truck Club of Washington .

03-05-2004, 02:12 PM	#15
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	Danho, you really need to put a fusible link there, rather than just a length of plain wire. That fusible link could make the difference between your truck burning to the ground or not. A fusible link is just a length of wire that will melt in two if there is ever a short somewhere. It's basicaly a fuse. They are available at any parts store. __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin

03-03-2004, 01:55 AM	#2
rage'nrat638 Account Suspended Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: THE FALL GUY CHICAGO IL Posts: 5,883	well if your useing a hei you can not use the resistor wire you won't get full 12 volts......you need a hot wire from the switched fuse box

03-03-2004, 02:02 AM	#3
rage'nrat638 Account Suspended Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: THE FALL GUY CHICAGO IL Posts: 5,883	just run a wire from the battery and see if that starts it.... the resistor wire must go if using a HEI

03-03-2004, 02:11 AM	#4
danho Pesemistic Optimist Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Prineville, Oregon Posts: 227	Are you talking about running a jumper wire from the battery to the HEI? Cause I got nothing, no headlights, no power to the fuse panel...nothing. I'm somewhat electrically challenged so could this be the problem or is it something bigger? Dan.

03-03-2004, 02:13 AM	#5
avejoe Custer had a plan too. Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: No. California Posts: 344	Make sure your bat is charged and the terminal connections are clean and tight.

03-03-2004, 02:16 AM	#6
kwmech Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Colfax-California Posts: 8,599	Sounds like you missed a wire at the batt. post of the starter

03-03-2004, 02:21 AM	#7
rage'nrat638 Account Suspended Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: THE FALL GUY CHICAGO IL Posts: 5,883	OK.... YOU SHOULD HAVE ONE BIG RED POSITIVE CABLE GOING TO THE STARTER...... YOU SHOULD HAVE A LITTLE RED WIRE RIGHT NEXT TO THE BATTERY....THAT GOES TO THE POSITIVE TERMINAL AS WELL.... THATS THE HEAD LIGHTS.... AND ONE BIG BLACK NEG. CABLE GOING TO THE BLOCK...GROUND THEN....THERE SHOULD BE A WIRE THAT GOES TO THE SMALL STARTER TERMINALS....LITTLE FOGGY ON THE COLOR... IS THERE TWO OR ONE THERE? ANYWAY THATS YOUR KEYSWITCH POWER....AND FUSE BOX AND OF COURSE THE 12 VOLT WIRE TO THE HEI POSITIVE TERMINAL..ON THE CAP....YOU DO HAVE THE OTHER PLUG FROM THE HEI BASE PLUGGED IN ...RIGHT?? THAT SHOULD JUST ABOUT DO IT...... AND OF COURSE GROUND STRAPS FROM THE BLOCK TO THE FRAME

03-03-2004, 08:14 AM	#8
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Actually ragenrat...that wire feeds all the electrical stuff in the whole truck. Do you have the red wire that goes to the little junction block about 12 inches back on the passenger fender?

03-03-2004, 11:23 AM	#9
danho Pesemistic Optimist Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Prineville, Oregon Posts: 227	I don't have any red wires going to the junction block. What do I need to do here Andy? And Ragenrat, I'm a little confused about- "YOU SHOULD HAVE A LITTLE RED WIRE RIGHT NEXT TO THE BATTERY....THAT GOES TO THE POSITIVE TERMINAL AS WELL.... " Are you talking about the same thing as Andy? And lastly, there are no grounding straps from the motor to the frame, I do have 4 little ones though. 2 go to the firewall from the valve cover bolts and 2 go from the frame to the inner fenders which I haven't put back on the truck yet. Dan.

03-03-2004, 11:29 AM	#10
kwmech Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Colfax-California Posts: 8,599	There should be a small pigtail wire going from the pos. batt term to the small junction block on the fender. And yes ALL the ground wires should be installed. The factory put them there for a reason.

03-05-2004, 01:41 PM	#14
danho Pesemistic Optimist Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Prineville, Oregon Posts: 227	Thanks for all the help guys, I couldn't have got it running without you. The problem was the wire from the positive to the junction block on the passenger fender. Started it up and it sounded good for a few minutes until the radiator sprung a leak. Should get my new one today and hopefully be up and driving it by Sunday. Thanks again, Dan.



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03-05-2004, 02:18 PM	#16
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 22,031	Another option is an updated version of the fusible link that actually is a blade style fuse that can be replaced if shorted. __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

03-05-2004, 02:34 PM	#17
J.Lance Too many is never enough! Join Date: May 2003 Location: Idaho Falls, ID Posts: 455	fuse I wouldn't mind converting to a replacable fuse myself. What amperage fuse would I use?? __________________ Jason 1968 K10 SWB Fleetside 1971 K2500 GMC LWB 1968 K20 (later frame, donor body) 1972 C20 LWB parts truck 1993 K2500 Suburban, tow rig, 454, 4L80E NEW!! 18' Siem's car hauler 2004 Honda Odyssey (family man!)

03-05-2004, 03:05 PM	#18
danho Pesemistic Optimist Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Prineville, Oregon Posts: 227	Great info, I'm with J.Lance on this one. So what amperage if I use an inline fuse? Dan.

03-06-2004, 02:06 AM	#19
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	I can't remember where I got it from, but my notes say 30 amp.

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