Can you help me identify this?

[Beach-Burban]

I'm thinking this is a fuseable link but different than what I've seen before? I have a fuseable link that is on the small factory Positive buss post that's near the battery. The other end connects to one side of the ampmeter. That one looks like a regular wire that says "fuesable link" right on it. The one in question connects to the same Positive buss post and is part of the original wiring harness that goes across the top of the radiator support from passenger side to drivers side. The only marking on it is the number 60 (on the bottom of the black rubber part). Everything is working fine, but I'm curious as to what it is? Thanks!

Woody

[ray_mcavoy]

That's one of the fuses for the ammeter. There are 2 of them ... that one near the battery and another on the other side near the voltage regulator. They take small 4 amp fuses and if either one of them is blown the ammeter won't work.

[Bigdav160]

It comes apart and there's a small fuse inside

[Accelo]

The one shown is the battery side, it connects to the little black connector on the fender. The other side ( amp gauge feed) comes out of the harness and then goes back into it with only the fuse holder showing. Connections have to be supper clean for the amp gauge to work. That is why the fuses are completely encased in rubber.
Cheers.

[Beach-Burban]

Thanks for clearing that up for me! I'll have to check out the other one...maybe the reason my factory ammeter doesn't work? I forgot to mention that I have a working aftermarket ammeter that's tied into the wiring. The original owner must have gotten a deal on BLUE wire because when ever he fixed anything, he used BLUE wire (which adds to the difficulty of tracing things back to the source)! I've been trying to clean things up starting under the hood and I do have replacement wiring harnesses from M&H, but want to plan it out better before pulling out the old stuff. Thanks again for all the help this board has provided over the years...you guys are great!

Woody

[RichardJ]

>>I forgot to mention that I have a working aftermarket ammeter that's tied into the wiring.<<

Ammeter or Voltmeter? Very, very odd.
Seen a lot of guys add a voltmeter, but never an aftermarket Ammeter, especially since the fuse in your photo indicates your truck had a factory Ammeter.

The factory Ammeter uses an external shunt. Aftermarket Ammeters generally have an internal shunt unless you get a meter for Marine application.
Very odd.

>>Positive buss post<< ?
Are you talking about the original fender mounted Junction Block?

Is that a ford type solenoid in the bottom corner of your photo? What is it used for?

[Beach-Burban]

Quote=RichardJ;9183737]>>I forgot to mention that I have a working aftermarket ammeter that's tied into the wiring.<<

Ammeter or Voltmeter? Very, very odd.
Seen a lot of guys add a voltmeter, but never an aftermarket Ammeter, especially since the fuse in your photo indicates your truck had a factory Ammeter.

The factory Ammeter uses an external shunt. Aftermarket Ammeters generally have an internal shunt unless you get a meter for Marine application.
Very odd.

>>Positive buss post<< ?
Are you talking about the original fender mounted Junction Block?

Is that a ford type solenoid in the bottom corner of your photo? What is it used for?[/quote]

Yes Richard, it is an ammeter. The factory ammeter was the only gauge not working when I bought the Suburban in 2017...and when I looked under the dash, the wiring scared me a little so I never tried to figure it out and just installed a aftermarket gauge. Shortly afterwards, I read that a voltmeter made more sense, but by that time I had followed the directions, installed it and it worked so I kept it.

Yes again regarding the original fender mounted Junction Block (sorry if I confused things by calling it by the wrong name) but as I am in the process of adding an Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 EFI, I decided to add larger positive and negative Junction Blocks to have a cleaner way of adding relays and other connections, so I removed the small original one.

Wow...three yes's in a row! That is a Ford style solenoid. It was installed by the original owner to assist or bypass the GM starter solenoid (which I've heard is common) but he had it in an odd place on the inner fender well, so I just now moved it as part of my "clean-up" process. First I removed the original charcoal canister as the Pro Flo 4 has a different way to vent the system, then mounted the solenoid out of the way in that corner (that's why I started wondering about that "fuse"). The space I cleared on the wheel well is now where my pre/post fuel filters are mounted...but I'm still fine tuning the placement of everything. My plan is to get everything up and running then remove everything to clean and refresh the paint a little before mounting everything for the final time. I may not be doing everything in a conventional manner, but I think it will both work well and look alright.

Woody

Here you can see the indent where the original Junction Block was (by the front post of red Junction Block).



Here you can see the two holes (the top two by the white label on filter) where the solenoid was mounted...kind of in the way!
Attachment 2261046