Frame painting questions.

[clayton1967]

So I'm ordering a new rear mount fuel tank and ECE 4/6 drop and decided I'm gonna take the bed off now and paint the back half of the frame. So my question is what kind of paint is good for the frame I've thought about that POR15 stuff anybody ever use it? since I won't be sand blasting it what would be the best procedure?
Thanks
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[clayton1967]

I guess no one can help me with this?
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[slikside]

I have not used it, but have seen many threads here by folks who love the POR 15. Be patient....I do think someone will answer up... Also, have you tried running a search on frame painting/POR 15 etc..?

[Longhorn Man]

I'm a fan of POR15. There's some that don't like it, but there's people who don't like peporoni pizza.
Clean the frame real good. If you have a pressure washer and some of the dollar store oven cleaner, that'll remove just about anything. A trip to the coin op car wash will do if you can sneak it by the hippies.
It needs to be clean though, get the frame clean, you can sand the rust down, but in reality just hitting it with a wire wheel will do fine. Remove as much paint (assuming you still have some on the frame) and then brush it on.
Wear gloves
and clothes you don't care about
And cover the floor you are on.
And don't scratch your man parts unless you are 100% sure your hands are clean... trust me.

[slikside]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

I'm a fan of POR15. There's some that don't like it, but there's people who don't like peporoni pizza.
Clean the frame real good. If you have a pressure washer and some of the dollar store oven cleaner, that'll remove just about anything. A trip to the coin op car wash will do if you can sneak it by the hippies.
It needs to be clean though, get the frame clean, you can sand the rust down, but in reality just hitting it with a wire wheel will do fine. Remove as much paint (assuming you still have some on the frame) and then brush it on.
Wear gloves
and clothes you don't care about
And cover the floor you are on.
And don't scratch your man parts unless you are 100% sure your hands are clean... trust me.

You see? I knew someone would deliver....and it was longhorn Man.
Everything you wanted to know.....and then some!!

[treveiger]

There's threads in the autobody section of this site about it. Por15 makes a hard shell over the frame which can cause rust creep but its pretty tough stuff from what I hear. With my truck I'm using zero rust because I've heard better things about it from autobody specialist. You will need to clean the loose rust off and clean up the frame either way then use a rust converter so rust creep is kept to a minimum for the best results.
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[HarrolLS1]

http://www.por15.com/
http://www.kbs-coatings.com/
http://zero-rust.com/auto.html

I have tried por15 and it works for me, but you have to top coat it if it will be exposed to the sun. You might want to get the silver por15 if you are going to top coat it so you can tell where you are painting the black topcoat. I just tried kbs and it seems to be as good as por15. I like that the kbs has some uv stability so I won't top coat it for frame painting.
I plan to try the ZeroRust product next to see how they all compare after some exposure to the weather. Seems that zero rust is popular on some car forums.
Longhorn Man said it well ... the preparation is most important. READ the directions and follow what they say for that product. I bought a good 3m respirator and some goggles, use them during the prep stage as well as painting. These chemicals are toxic. I got a quart can of the KBs and used 1/3can to cover the rear portion of the frame. I imagine that it would take the whole quart to cover the entire frame. I bought a bunch of foam brushes from the dollar store and some latex gloves from costco in bulk. You will use a bunch of both. Once this stuff dries on you you will have to wait til' it wears off, ask me how I know.

[ChevLoRay]

My son and I started out with a wire wheel, a wire brush, an abrasive wheel and so forth. My frame just had some surface rust on it, nothing like the stuff that the snow belt sees.

We finally decided that sandblasting wasn't a bad thing and had it done. Then,we brought it home and used some black low-gloss implement paint with a hardener, from Tractor Supply. We went back over it with Krylon black spray paint, also in a low-gloss. As far as we can tell, we have completely covered every square inch of the chassis and cross members, with no metal exposed.

By the way, we took every crossmember off, as well as completely disassmembled the front suspension, removed the brake hard lines, fuel line and the brake cable ass'ys. We've also started getting new Grade 8 nuts and bolts to replace all of the old stuff. We'll hit 'em with some more black paint when we need to.

Some folks like to have 'em sand blasted and then powder-coated, but we couldn't afford that. As it stands rignt now, we have about $300 in the sandblasting and paint. In my book, that ain't too bad.

[ChevLoRay]

Here's a picture I took yesterday afternoon. I described how we prepped the frame and how we painted it. Hope it helps. The close-up shows brush strokes from the TSC paint/hardener we used. I'm not proud of those, and any other painting will be done with a sprayer/rattle can.

[cdowns]

i've used POR15 on many many frames and all suspension pieces and it has held up really well for many many years with no fading that you could tell

of course i never park on a mirrored surface so the ultraviloet rays were never an issue in my experiences

[HarrolLS1]

one other note.. get some of the pour spouts from KBs or use a coffee can scoop to get the paint out of the can. Don't let it sit in the groove of the can or the lid will not close well. I use a piece of cling wrap between the lid and the can when I close it and put the can in a ziplock plastic bag. If it isn't sealed tight and you store it for a while you might end up with an expensive solid lump.
RustBullet is another product I have tried. It is very durable but I would use it for smaller parts I don't think I would paint a whole frame with it. I doesn't seem to flow as well for me. If you thin any of these companies products use their thinner... I used thinner from home depot and the moisture in the thinner messed up the process. Good luck!
http://www.rustbullet.com/

[Tx Firefighter]

POR15 ranks nearly up there with bewbies in my opinion. It's that good. I've always been very happy with the results. But, the fading thing is a consideration. Where I live it's hot and sunny and I have found the POR will fade anywhere it is exposed. That's wheel well areas and frame ends behind the bumper. I'd topcoat the POR15 with a coat of POR paint myself. The paint is UV resistant.