Puller to disconnect connecting rod from pitman arm... - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**COBALT** · 09-03-2002, 12:25 PM

...the last parts to get off the front-end are the idler arm off the frame, the pitman arm off the steering box, and the connecting rod off the pitman arm. I have a pitman arm puller, and I was just going to use that to pull both the idler and the pitman. However, I don't have a way to get the connecting rod off the pitman. It's stuck on there pretty tight, and I don't want to damange the rod (I gotta reuse that).

Anyone know of a puller I can get? The fit is pretty tight, and I tried torching it with a propane torch but it won't budge. None of my regular pullers will work because the jaws aren't thin enough to fit into the space between the rod and the pitman.

Any help would be cool.

Also, just for grins does anyone know the size of the nut on the gear-box side of the pitman arm? I forgot to measure it before I left my dad's yesterday. I need to get another overgrown socket and I have no idea how big it is. 1 1/8" ???

woodrow59 · 09-03-2002, 01:34 PM

try here ....

http://www3.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...suspension.jsp

TERRYP · 09-03-2002, 02:20 PM

You separate these with a 'pickle fork', one narrow enough to just clear the shaft width, either a tie rod or ball juint type. They are 2 pronged forks with a wedge in them, they usually ruin the rubber grease cup, but you can buy those cheaply.

**COBALT** · 09-03-2002, 02:23 PM

I tried using my smallest pickle fork. It didn't look like the edges would fit into the space between the pitman and the rod. Guess I'll just have to try harder next time I'm there...

Sinister · 09-03-2002, 02:32 PM

there is a type of valve spring compressor that looks like a gear puller that might work in your situation, they're about $15...

dude...

Snowbound · 09-03-2002, 10:52 PM

Try a BFH and smack the end of the socket. I just pulled a steering box at the wreckers a couple weeks ago and it popped right off. I separated every joint on my front end this way when I did my disc swap. Works pretty well and you don't rip up the rubber parts.

Good luck,

Brian

Ed ke6bnl · 09-04-2002, 03:59 AM

I couldn't get one off my one ton dually without putting it in my 12 ton press and released with a bang safely and cleanly. Ed ke6bnl

Michael A. K. G · 09-04-2002, 11:43 AM

Harbor Freight sells a "small Pitman arm puller" for $6, that I've used for separating tie rods and drag links. It works great; remove the bolt and press on the stud end. Use as much leverage as you need; these pullers are so cheap they are "disposable." I've never broken one, though.

BTW, if your connecting rods are connected to your Pitman arm, you have one WEIRD truck. Doesn't that make the steering shaky, especially at high revs? How do you seal the crankcase?

**ThreeQuarter** · 09-04-2002, 12:14 PM

LOL @ AKG. But that's what I've always heard them called, too: connecting rods. Kinda like we have two kinds of rotors, two kinds of wheels, etc.

Michael A. K. G · 09-04-2002, 01:16 PM

Hmm. I thought the part that connnects to the knuckles was the "tie rod," one on each side. The drag link connects the tie rods together, the Pitman arm connects to the steering gear, and the idler arm connects to the opposite frame rail.

But I'm more familiar with Ford inverted-Y steering, where the drag link and one of the tie rods are the same thing, and there is no idler arm (and every bump whacks you in the face, etc.).

PitterPats72 · 09-04-2002, 03:04 PM

I may be off base but what I saw inCustom Classic Trucks (CCT) was they used a hammer to strike the taper loose. This is on pg 76 of the Oct 2002 issue.

Like I said, this may not be what you're talking about but if you get a copy of tha mag it may be what you're looking for.

Pat

**COBALT** · 09-04-2002, 04:26 PM

Well whatever that rod is called it's stuck pretty good. The idler side came off just fine, but the pitman is stuck fast. Also, the inner tie rod ends came out easy too, but they should have because they were completely blown.

I've already used the hammer otherwise this post wouldn't be here. I'm going to save my money and try another round with the pickle fork. Worst case: I'll pull the pitman and the rod together and put them both on a vice, and hammer away...

09-03-2002, 12:25 PM	#1
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	Puller to disconnect connecting rod from pitman arm... ...the last parts to get off the front-end are the idler arm off the frame, the pitman arm off the steering box, and the connecting rod off the pitman arm. I have a pitman arm puller, and I was just going to use that to pull both the idler and the pitman. However, I don't have a way to get the connecting rod off the pitman. It's stuck on there pretty tight, and I don't want to damange the rod (I gotta reuse that). Anyone know of a puller I can get? The fit is pretty tight, and I tried torching it with a propane torch but it won't budge. None of my regular pullers will work because the jaws aren't thin enough to fit into the space between the rod and the pitman. Any help would be cool. Also, just for grins does anyone know the size of the nut on the gear-box side of the pitman arm? I forgot to measure it before I left my dad's yesterday. I need to get another overgrown socket and I have no idea how big it is. 1 1/8" ??? __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

09-03-2002, 01:34 PM	#2
woodrow59 OzarkHillbilly in Atlanta Join Date: May 2002 Location: Douglasville, Ga. Salem, Mo. Posts: 386	try here .... http://www3.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...suspension.jsp __________________ 72 custom/10 LWB 68 Longhorn C20 Custom Camper (sold)

09-03-2002, 02:20 PM	#3
TERRYP GYRO GEARLOOSE Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Nevada City, CAEverett, WA Posts: 361	You separate these with a 'pickle fork', one narrow enough to just clear the shaft width, either a tie rod or ball juint type. They are 2 pronged forks with a wedge in them, they usually ruin the rubber grease cup, but you can buy those cheaply. __________________ Nevada City, CA Everett, Washington 57 3/4 rat, 235, 3spd 66 C-10 Panel, SWB. 350 from '68, 200R4 tranny, 3.07 rear ratio, restoring 68 C10 LWB 350 4spd, 4.56 rear dump runner 82 Camaro, 305, THM-200-R4 84 Monte Carlo 305 TH350, land tuna 85 Tercel SW, snow runner DISGRACED OUTLAW MEMBER OF THE DRUM BRAKE CLUB

09-03-2002, 02:23 PM	#4
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	I tried using my smallest pickle fork. It didn't look like the edges would fit into the space between the pitman and the rod. Guess I'll just have to try harder next time I'm there... __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

09-03-2002, 02:32 PM	#5
Sinister Between Trucks... Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Los Angeles, CA. Posts: 3,830	there is a type of valve spring compressor that looks like a gear puller that might work in your situation, they're about $15... dude... __________________ Beat it to fit, Paint it to match...

09-03-2002, 10:52 PM	#6
Snowbound Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Westbank, BC Posts: 403	Try a BFH and smack the end of the socket. I just pulled a steering box at the wreckers a couple weeks ago and it popped right off. I separated every joint on my front end this way when I did my disc swap. Works pretty well and you don't rip up the rubber parts. Good luck, Brian __________________ 1965 Chevy Short Box Stepside, 230 - 3 speed, 4:11 gears, original paint rust free survivor. Now sporting a 383 SBC and TKO-600

09-04-2002, 03:59 AM	#7
Ed ke6bnl Registered User Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Agua Dulce, Ca. usa Posts: 179	I couldn't get one off my one ton dually without putting it in my 12 ton press and released with a bang safely and cleanly. Ed ke6bnl __________________ Ed ke6bnl Agua Dulce 70 S.E. Los Angeles 70 Chevy short bed 1948 F3 ford pu 1949 F1 stock V8 flathead 3 on floor 1950 F1 pu street rod 1948 F6 Ford Dually/350sbc no bed stock trans&rear 1972 El Camino 4" chop 1953 Chevy 3100 2b daily driver 1970 SB 4X4 400ci 6in lift

09-04-2002, 11:43 AM	#8
Michael A. K. G Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: California central coast Posts: 126	Harbor Freight sells a "small Pitman arm puller" for $6, that I've used for separating tie rods and drag links. It works great; remove the bolt and press on the stud end. Use as much leverage as you need; these pullers are so cheap they are "disposable." I've never broken one, though. BTW, if your connecting rods are connected to your Pitman arm, you have one WEIRD truck. Doesn't that make the steering shaky, especially at high revs? How do you seal the crankcase?

09-04-2002, 12:14 PM	#9
ThreeQuarter Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Texan in Iowa Posts: 2,522	LOL @ AKG. But that's what I've always heard them called, too: connecting rods. Kinda like we have two kinds of rotors, two kinds of wheels, etc. __________________ Ben '68 Chevy C10 Custom LWB 327/TH400 2nd owner '16 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE Dblcab 4wd 5.3

09-04-2002, 01:16 PM	#10
Michael A. K. G Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: California central coast Posts: 126	Hmm. I thought the part that connnects to the knuckles was the "tie rod," one on each side. The drag link connects the tie rods together, the Pitman arm connects to the steering gear, and the idler arm connects to the opposite frame rail. But I'm more familiar with Ford inverted-Y steering, where the drag link and one of the tie rods are the same thing, and there is no idler arm (and every bump whacks you in the face, etc.).

09-04-2002, 03:04 PM	#11
PitterPats72 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Indianapolis, IN Posts: 145	puller I may be off base but what I saw inCustom Classic Trucks (CCT) was they used a hammer to strike the taper loose. This is on pg 76 of the Oct 2002 issue. Like I said, this may not be what you're talking about but if you get a copy of tha mag it may be what you're looking for. Pat __________________ 72 Chevy Custom 10 Deluxe (78K mi.) 95 Nissan Maxima (195K mi.) 73 VW Beetle (owned since 78; 96K miles) Engine rebuild by me done! 73 VW Super Beetle -New to me- Bought from original owner! 84 Honda Nighthawk (2500 mi.) I know too much foreign stuff; I've owned American too and they lasted just as long.

09-04-2002, 04:26 PM	#12
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	Well whatever that rod is called it's stuck pretty good. The idler side came off just fine, but the pitman is stuck fast. Also, the inner tie rod ends came out easy too, but they should have because they were completely blown. I've already used the hammer otherwise this post wouldn't be here. I'm going to save my money and try another round with the pickle fork. Worst case: I'll pull the pitman and the rod together and put them both on a vice, and hammer away... __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.



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