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Old 01-06-2004, 09:51 PM   #1
69k5
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hydroboost

i am putting hydroboost brakes on my 69 K5. nso i have some questions.

1. will a high pressure (newer than my 69) fit in my 69 brackets of my 350 sb? i have the kind thats attatched to the motyor mount.

2. can i modify my pump to have higher pressure?

3. which hydro do i need to use? look in my webshots in the parts folder. i have 2 one is from a 91 and the other i have no idea.but it is chevy. main reson is i dont know what the gold cylinder on the 91 is for.

http://community.webshots.com/user/69k5blazer//

4. any snags from peoples personal experience i need to know about?

thanks

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Old 01-07-2004, 01:16 AM   #2
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ttt

anybody done this and have oics or no who does?
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Old 01-07-2004, 11:55 AM   #3
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I'm not sure I understand your questions but I will give it a shot as I'm in the process of using a hydroboost of an 89 1 ton that looks like the one you have from a 91. I think you are going to have to have the power steering pump from the new vehicle to make it work since you need an extra high pressure line coming off the power steering pump to the hydroboost. I doubt you could modify your existing pump to have enough pressure, but that is purely a guess. I wondered what that gold cylinder is also but never tried to figure out. You might find someone over at www.coloradok5.com who would know what the cylinder does.

Would you like a picture of the power steering pump that should go with that hydroboost?

When you mount it you will see that you will need to drill some new holes and you will also need to press out two of the studs in your pedal assembly to mount the hydroboost. I would highly recommend you reenforce the mounting area for the hydroboost as it is heavy and much longer. I can e-mail you a pic of my reenforcement that I'm using if you pm me your e-mail address. You will also need to change the way you attach the push rod to your pedal assembly. Appears you will need to cut off the end on the push rod, thread it and get a Heim joint attached so you can reach your pedal assembly. Unless you have disc brakes up front, you shouldn't need to worry about adding a proportioning valve.

If you do go with a new power steering pump you will need to address the fact that it will use metric fittings and your trucks steering box will be SAE.

Those are things I know you will have to address.
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Old 01-07-2004, 12:01 PM   #4
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Also remembered, the lower part of the brake bracket will interfer with how your steering column is affixed to the firewall. I haven't dealt with how I'm going to correct that yet.
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Old 01-07-2004, 12:21 PM   #5
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the gold cylinder is filled with some kinda gas so that if your engine shuts off and you have no pressure from the pump, it will give you a few pumps of the brake to slow down. I read this back when I was looking into hydroboost. Do a google search on hydroboost and youll come up with a bunch of sites.
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Old 01-07-2004, 01:27 PM   #6
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I'm not sure which is correct, maybe both... My hydroboost has a high pressure line from the pump to hydro boost and high pressure line from the hydro boost to the steering box. Then a low pressure line from both the hydro boost and the steering box into a 'T" and back to the pump.

Here's a diagram off of a websit showing how mine is set up.


http://www.members.tripod.com/surfmac/21.html
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Old 01-07-2004, 01:31 PM   #7
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It looks like HydraTech sets up their systems the same way.


http://www.hydroboost.com/
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Old 01-07-2004, 02:57 PM   #8
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I am just wondering why you guys are running the hydra boost system over the normal master cylinder type? I was reading someplace that I to will need to swap this stuff in because I just installed a Dana 60 disc front in my truck. Any truth to this?
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Old 01-07-2004, 03:06 PM   #9
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Dwayne,
I'm running it because it was already installed when I bought the truck. Seriously though, it has some advantages. It saves some room over a power vacuum setup, which I guess isn't that big of a deal in our trucks, but in smaller cars it is. It also allows you to run a more radical of an engine (read: low vacuum) without it affecting your brakes.

Not sure about it being needed with the dana 60
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Old 01-07-2004, 03:19 PM   #10
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The hydroboost system is a stronger braking system. Some reasons for changing to this system would be: running large tires (38's or 44's, etc.), for constant towing of heavy loads, some extremely modified motor have too much of a lope to use a vacuum brake booster and manual brakes won't stop the vehicle adequately.
I'm going to be converting my vac brake booster system to the hydroboost system due to the heavier weight of the truck, the engine modifications, and the trucks ability to tow and carry extremely heavy loads. I need to be able to stop.
As for you question of installing the Dana 60 front, you shouldn't really need anything more than the vacuum brake booster system unless you are adding large tires, towing heavy loads, or have modified to motor and can't use the vac system.
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Old 01-07-2004, 03:53 PM   #11
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Never heard it be required for a Dana 60 and I know people who don't have it and run Dana 60's.

I am using the hydroboost for two reasons, my 69 had manual brakes which definitely leave a bit to be desired with 35" tires and the 89 1 ton which I got the 454 from just happened to have this complete setup so it was a no brainer to take it all and use it. Also using the hydraulic clutch which is excellent as that saves me lots of hassle trying to figure out clutch linkage on the big block swap into the 4wd.
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Old 01-07-2004, 05:12 PM   #12
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Hmm, so maybe its not needed then as I am only running a 33 inch tire. But I think some master cylinder changes are going to be needed as I have the big Dana disc brakes in the front and the rear has been converted to discs with 3/4 chevy stuff. Is there a difference in the master cylinder volumes between 1/2 ton and 1 ton? Sorry to hijack the post.
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Old 01-07-2004, 09:37 PM   #13
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Yukon jack

Would you like a picture of the power steering pump that should go with that hydroboost?


yes how did you get it to mount in your 69? my 350 block is a 75 so i might be able to do it w/o much trouble.

I can e-mail you a pic of my reenforcement that I'm using if you pm me your e-mail address.

I will Pm you. thanks!

You will also need to change the way you attach the push rod to your pedal assembly. Appears you will need to cut off the end on the push rod, thread it and get a Heim joint attached so you can reach your pedal assembly.

do you have the longer or shorter style push rod. i found in my research here and on ck5 that a 94 suburban had a recall on pushrods and has an adjustable one to replace it.

Unless you have disc brakes up front, you shouldn't need to worry about adding a proportioning valve.

swapping to 4 wheel disc with the 8 lug upgrade now. as soon as i get my rear brackets. but i already have a valve. thinking about a summit adjustable for the back.

If you do go with a new power steering pump you will need to address the fact that it will use metric fittings and your trucks steering box will be SAE.

i guess tap and die time

Also remembered, the lower part of the brake bracket will interfer with how your steering column is affixed to the firewall. I haven't dealt with how I'm going to correct that yet.

ill probably adjust the bracket with a grinder. the older hb bracket looks like it will swap by just undoing the big locknut on the back. if it does the 4 studs match up perfect and it might not need the grinder.



jays68yak


my brother in law said the same thing, and something about not being able to compress a liquid. i dont know he has a master in physics and looses me pretty quick when he starts talking. thanks for the search idea. i only searched here, ck5, and pbb




tomsC10R


thanks for the link and diagram.
http://www.hydroboost.com/ - they have the gold thing as well.



Dwaynes56&68


i am still stock but soon going up 4" and 35's. I wanted it b/c its smaller. my wife said its just something else to tinker with on the truck. she proabably right. and lastly anything is an improivement over 4 wheel disc. since i am upgrading to 4 wheel disc and 8 lug, might as well do the brakes.

thanks for all the help

nathan
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Old 01-07-2004, 09:46 PM   #14
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does the booster look upside down on this? i swear mine is the other way around and the gold thing is on the inside.



mine

Last edited by 69k5; 01-07-2004 at 09:48 PM.
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Old 01-07-2004, 10:52 PM   #15
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69k5,
I recognize that as being Hydratech's. I'm not sure if it's a special unit ( I doubt it). Or if they just do that for styling purposes. I guess it would be ok to run that portion of it upside down...maybe...

Yes, all others I've seen have the fluid inlets on top. Here's a pic of mine.

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Old 01-08-2004, 06:03 PM   #16
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I have a dana 60 front in my 69 with the stock booster and master cylinder with no problems, stops great. Here's a pic of a hydro boost installed on a 72 burb, I drove this truck and really liked the feel of the hydro boost system. I have all the parts ready to do the swap as soon as I find time.

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Old 01-08-2004, 07:57 PM   #17
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blazerman or toms c10r


did either one of you have to put in an adjustable proportioning valve for the rear wheels?

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Old 01-08-2004, 10:56 PM   #18
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69k5,
It doesn't have one right now. But to tell you the truth, I'm not sure if it's going to need one or not. I have kind of a uncommon set up so I'm not sure. I haven't driven the truck enough to get a feel for it. I've only had it a couple months. Right now it's hiding from salt in a storage shed

I think it would depend on what kind of brakes you go with. I have 86 Chevy fronts discs with a ford 9" w/ lincoln? rear discs. If you're not changing the type of setup the master cylinder/distribution block was designed for ( disk front, drum rear etc) I wouldn't think that you'd need a proportion valve.

Disclaimer: I don't have much experience with brakes, so wait for some advice from an expert or ask a professional before you decide for sure
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Old 01-09-2004, 12:26 AM   #19
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The gold cylinder is called an accumulator. It is supposed to in case of power failure to the unit, ie. motor dies, give you about two pumps with power for the brakes. I personally hate this setup due to the reason that if a power steering hose blew then you would also lose power assist to not only the steering but the brakes also, and it is ALOT harder than the vacuum to push the pedal down when the engine dies or as stated above. As far as using the newer type I beleive that the original pump will work for it. My buddy has this setup and it is T'eed into his original hoses it will plant your face into the winshield if you hit the brakes too fast! But he also does not like this setup because if power steering fluid leaks out it will affect the brakes also, and when the engine dies it is very hard to stop the truck. Though some will argue that it cleans up the firewall, I really dont think that it does, because it still sticks out just as far and you have two extra lines to deal with while changing plugs also. But it is your decision to what you want, good luck with it!!!
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Old 01-09-2004, 12:17 PM   #20
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69k5 I will get a pic this weekend of the power steering pump I am using off the 98 1 ton. The pump is on that truck's 454 that I now have in my 69 so I am using all of the original accessory brackets. I've been working the last few nights on actually mounting the hydroboost brake and hydrualic clutch so I will get some pics when it is done.

I'm not sure which push rod is on the brake cylinder, I think I will just cut it and adjust as necessary.

I have an adapter purchased to hopefully allow me to use the metric power steering hose with my SAE box. I will post the part number and info if it works.
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Old 01-09-2004, 03:52 PM   #21
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black and blue.

thanks for the info. i think i am gonna do it anyway. worst case ill atke it off and redo the other.

yukon jack

thanks for all your help with this. and thanks for the pics in advance. one last question i have for now is how did you cut the aluminum. i have a torch grinder and and air compressor. ive never done anything with aluminum.

thanks again

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Old 01-09-2004, 04:28 PM   #22
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Buddy has a plasma cutter and I watched in awe as he cut it like butter! Very amazing to see aluminum and steel cut with that cutter.

I tried to clean up the cut with a grinder but it didn't work very well. I was told you need a special grinder wheel to work with aluminum. Had great luck cleaning up the cut with my air powered tool with 40 grit sanding wheels.
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Old 01-09-2004, 05:02 PM   #23
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thats what i was afraid of. i have seen the wheels for aluminum at home depot. i gotta find me a "buddy". i can probably draw it up and a local machine shop do it for 10 bucks or so plus the aluminum. also gonna get them to make me some brackets for my rear disc as soon as i can find the pattern.

thanks again

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Old 01-09-2004, 06:15 PM   #24
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Although there is not much to it, I would be happy to make you a template on a piece of paper and mail it to you from my reinforcement. It would save you a little bit of work.
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Old 01-13-2004, 05:32 PM   #25
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thanks thatll be aewsome. ill pm you

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