Pulling axles, 8.5 rear end, hit a snag

[Dustint]

I've got an 8.5 rear end from a 2000 s10 xtreme, that I will be putting under my 48 thats on an s10 chassis. Anyways, pulling it apart to re-do the brakes, and have hit a snag.
The set screw (bolt) that holds the center pin that needs to be removed to allow the axles to slide in to remove the c clips is extremely tight and slightly rounded off so that my socket is slipping. Someone must have worked on it before, and over torque'd it, but I'm not sure what can be done if that bolt won't come out? Tried needle nose vise grips with no luck either.

Anyone have any suggestions on what can be done?

[Bad Apache]

If you can still get a socket on it, this is what I would do. Borrow or buy a high quality 5/16 brake bleeder wrench. Then heat the differential case and bolt head with a propane torch (no oxy/acetylene). Then break it loose.
If it is too rounded to get a wrench on, you can try using vise grips but there isn't much room. If you can't get a good bite with the vise grips. Try taking a sharp chisel, after heating the area, and hit the fat shoulder of the bolt below the hex head at an angle to break the bolt loose. Then you can use the vise grips to work it out. Reheating as required.
The reason the bolt is so tight is probably because it is coated with thread locker.

And one last thing. When you get that bolt out, don't be surprised if the last thread and pin portion of the bolt is broken off in the case. If it is, post back up and I'll tell you some tricks for that as well. Be patient and you'll get it!

[tmoble]

Whatta PITA this deal is.

You using a good 6-pt socket?

[Dustint]

Yes, got a good socket on it. its not slipping until i get a lot of torque on the wrench, haven't heated yet, or tried the chisel to break it lose. will have to try that in the morning, and hope it works.
But yes, really surprised they don't go to a better or bigger bolt here to minimize this issue..it was already rounded some when I popped it open, I made it a little worse when it slipped, so just stopped before totally ruining the head.

[Kim57]

If the head is too rounded off you can try welding a nut that is a little larger on it.
Weld through the hole on the nut and then while it is still hot from the welding try and loosen it. I've done this in the past and had it work.
Sounds like you need a new bolt anyways.
Kim

[DaveCt]

I always have a hard time with this bolt if doing it by hand.
Use a tight fitting 6 point socket on a impact, it'll spin right off.

[72Mountaineer]

Look at the "bolt-out" sets from Craftsman. They grab the rounded head of a bolt and work great.

[1project2many]

I've been using a six point box end Craftsman wrench for years. The bolt head is slightly rounded when new so a 12 point wrench won't work. You put the box end over the bolt head so the open end is angled back toward the differential, place your RH index finger over the box end to prevent it from coming off, and using a 2lb hammer, tap the wrench until the bolt loosens. Problem is, mine has disappeared recently. That's what I get for letting the guys in the shop use my tools.

[_Ogre]

i have worked on machinery with other mechanics who use craftsman sockets and stripped nut or bolt
i'd throw my snap-on socket with flank drive and remove the offending nut
some things are gimmicks, snap-on's flank drive sockets are not

back in the early 70s we were out partying and got a flat tire on a buds rambler and the tire wrench was spinning on one lug nut
one of the girls with us had a pack of gum, i laid 4 layers of gum foil over the nut and hammered the lug wrench on
it worked to tighten up the wrench/nut interference and the lug nut came off

try a thin strip of beer can that will cover 2 of the nut lobes and hammer a socket over it
anything to get the wrench to grip on the end of the bolt

[Dustint]

Thanks for all the tips and little tricks guys! Hoping to have a little time to work on it tomorrow evening. While on the subject maybe can get some advice on some other rear end aspects I've got on the brain.
Rear brakes- Want to upgrade to a wilwood kit, but not seeing anything they have with the correct axle offset. I may have to get the rear shortened to fit with the wheels I got, that being considered, would it be a possibility to get the axles themselves shortened more than the housing to obtain a different offset, or easier to use spacers on caliper brackets?
Limited Slip Differential- The 8.5 I have has the gov-lock (posi) and I've heard all negative things about this. I'm only shooting to have 400-450 hp max in the truck when completed, would it be wise to swap this out while I'm at it, and if so do you guys have any experience with better brands of limited slip or posi trac third members for 8.5 rears?

[OrrieG]

ask the guys in the 4x4 forum what they think about the gov-loc rearends. Might try a search, I think there was a thread on them last year.

[1project2many]

Ogre, if there were a Flank Drive available in 5/16" six point I'd have it. For this job the six point Craftsman keeps working. The open end is large enough to hit easily, the OD of the box end fits into the bolt recess snugly, and the handle is strong enough so the wrench doesn't spring when it's struck. It just works. Now if you want to talk flare nut wrenches, the Flank Drive is the only type to have.

DustinT, toss the gov-lock. You'll blow the governor out and won't even hear it happen. It was GM's attempt to make a more fuel efficient posi but it's just nowhere near as good as the old pre-loaded plate type posi. Those old units can be located used and rebuilt or new ones can be purchased from various sources but if you want a really good unit that's also quiet and smooth, the True-trac is the way to go. http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/ProductsS...dex.htm#tabs-2

[Liddy71]

I have old guy tell me once that you could use valve grinding compound on it and it would grip it better

[dsraven]

sometimes the last guy will use red loctite on the threads. if this is the case then a LITTLE heat can be a big help. too much heat can warp the carrier so be carefull. a 6 point wrench or socket is what you need (personally I use a snap on 6 point wrench, not a socket, because then I can see if it about to slip on the bolt head. some shim stock can be your friend here as pointed out earlier with the gum wrapper foil) also, I have welded a nut to the bolt head lots of times in the past BUT always put the ground clamp ON THE CARRIER or the welding current will be forced to go through the BEARINGS and they will be the next project for you. if the head of the bolt breaks off you can also weld a nut to what is left for a nub. put a piece of rubber over the electrode (arc welder here) so it doesn't arc on the end of the threads in the carrier. sometimes the pin will be broken off further down the bolt and I have used the welder technique here too. put the rod inside a piece of rubber tubing so it can't touch the threaded carrier part, break some flux off the end of the rod, push it down the threaded hole so it touches the broken off-jambed pin, then turn the welder on for a SECOND and see if the rod welded itself to the broken off pin good enough to allow you to pull the pin out. you can also try turning the centre diff pin at the same time because sometimes the retainer bolt pin is bent.
good luck. keep us posted.