My 56 build

[Jason 56]

I started this thread by accident in the general forum, so I decided to move it here as this is where it should be. The first pictures I took with my phone had the wrong orientation. Sideways... so I’m only including a few of how the truck started! It came with a 350 /700R4 combo, which I’m replacing with an LS. I haven’t obtained one yet, but have lots to do in the meantime!

[Jason 56]

Enough of the sideway pics I purchased the truck in August. Someone actually attempted to modify the tri five frame to bolt in a newer Camaro front end. It didn’t go so well so I started by building a new frame out of 1/8” 2x6 square stock. Bought a helix mustang II front end and a triangulated 4 link rear end. The pictures show the 4th time I redid the front cross member and the second time I did the rear. I wasn’t happy with my original ride height! I initially built the frame with the stock axle notch. The 4th pic is the tracing of my ne notches

[Jason 56]

This is how the c-notch ended up. And I built the shock mounts. The 3rd pic is where my final ride height should fall in the rear. I also added some 45 degree braces on a downward angle to prevent any frame flexing. Also notched them so I can still fish any brake and fuel lines down the frame. Then I c-notched the front for the rack and pinion

[Jason 56]

Now That i have the frame to my liking I began sheet metal work. I don’t mind the sheet metal work, but don’t really care for the finish work. I’m too much of a perfectionist I started by removing the fiberglass that the previous owner put on the floor. Underneath I found Swiss cheese which lead me to brace up the cab and begin removing the firewall and half the floor! I was planning on the firewall anyway as the previous owner got a little carried away with a hole saw. Not to mention that there is about 40 holes from the factory.

[Jason 56]

Here are some of the problems I have to fix! Thanks to others on this forum I decided to be more adventurous and build some of the cowl panels that needed to be replaced! So after lots of pounding n shaping I came up with new lower cowls and kick panels

[Jason 56]

After further review of the cab I decided I needed to brace the door openings as well. I had to completey remove the a post from the step and replace the lower. I ordered a bunch of new sheet metal parts including new front cab supports. Had to build a frame to support the front of the cab using the cowl. Also cut out my new firewall. I left the hinge mounts in place so I wouldn’t have to relocate them! At this point I could finally start putting everything back tighter!

[SARBlade]

Hey Jason, great build page! I too am restoring a '56 Chev, I haven't really started mine, just the planning and gathering stage lol. What coilovers did you use for yours? I am going to put in a welder series 4 link (triangulate) and just want to get the right coilovers. I like the ride height you selected and I will have to do a notch too, but just not sure how much of one.

[Jason 56]

Originally Posted by SARBlade

Hey Jason, great build page! I too am restoring a '56 Chev, I haven't really started mine, just the planning and gathering stage lol. What coilovers did you use for yours? I am going to put in a welder series 4 link (triangulate) and just want to get the right coilovers. I like the ride height you selected and I will have to do a notch too, but just not sure how much of one.

Here’s a link to the springs I’m using.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/250-Pound-L...-127632-2357-0

I really don’t know yet how they are going to ride, but the way they are mounted them I’ll be able to upgrade to QA1 if I need. If I could I would of looked for a shorter pair. I want to keep my box depth original and the coil over length are my limiting factor right now. Good luck on your build!

[SARBlade]

Originally Posted by Jason 56

Here’s a link to the springs I’m using.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/250-Pound-L...-127632-2357-0

I really don’t know yet how they are going to ride, but the way they are mounted them I’ll be able to upgrade to QA1 if I need. If I could I would of looked for a shorter pair. I want to keep my box depth original and the coil over length are my limiting factor right now. Good luck on your build!

Thanks Jason, good tip, by long I guess you mean being able to adjust them down or in actual length?

[Jason 56]

Originally Posted by SARBlade

Thanks Jason, good tip, by long I guess you mean being able to adjust them down or in actual length?

Those coil overs are 14.5” eye to eye with4 inches of travel. I would prefer something closer to 12” for more adjustment in the rear. The way my truck is pictured, that’s as low as I can go in the rear.

[mongocanfly]

id use original ...

[Advanced Design]

I vote original as well. Nice fab work!

[Jason 56]

Have made some more progress. Finished the right a-post, kick panel and cowl. Now onto the floor pan and firewall. Spent most of the day fitting the floor pan. I also tore into my original hinges and there really worn! One pin was already replaced with a 3/8” bolt and another has a replacement hinge pin. The hinge with the new pin is still really bad Not sure I’ll be able to rebuild them. Was also wondering what others are doing for the cup washers that mount in the floor pan as the cab mounts. I can’t seem to find any. This is currently keeping me from installing the floor. Any info would be appreciated thanks

[Jason 56]

After sleeping on the cup washer idea I decided to just make them. Was really simple. A washer and a piece or pipe. Got the floor welded in and the firewall tacked in place. Slowly making progress! Had to get creative with the ratchet strap to straighten the firewall! Next I’m going to replace the steps then order hinges and fit doors. I’m not going to weld the center of the floor together yet. Figure I might have to move it to adjust door gaps. We’ll see

[dsraven]

if anybody else is wondering about those cupped washers, I have used the washers from newer cars with strut suspension. they use a washer similar to that on the struts. beware of the springs in there when undoing nuts though.

[Jason 56]

Over the last two week I’ve managed to remove both steps. Found rust holes filled with mud in both lower b-posts. Ordered new for each side along with the step supports. Just cut my own steps. Plan on covering them with a piece of stainless... so flat works better. Also finish welded the firewall in place. Came out pretty good, but I’m a perfectionist

[Rickysnickers]

Very nice work!

[mongocanfly]

Wow...that's slot of work on the fenders...I'm guessing you couldn't find replacements?....looks good..

[Jason 56]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

Wow...that's slot of work on the fenders...I'm guessing you couldn't find replacements?....looks good..

Thanks mongocanfly. It’s $300 for the pair of half fenders vs $1000 for a new set. I’ve also read that the new ones don’t fit well.

[my56chevytruck]

Originally Posted by Jason 56

Thanks mongocanfly. It’s $300 for the pair of half fenders vs $1000 for a new set. I’ve also read that the new ones don’t fit well.

you got that right. Very nice job of metal fab.

[slammed57]

fab work coming out nice!!! I'll be following

[Jason 56]

Originally Posted by slammed57

fab work coming out nice!!! I'll be following

Thanks, I’ve been following your build also. I plan on doing a similar inner fender.

[oldman3]

Lots of work, your lines look great, nice job...Jim

[Jason 56]

Originally Posted by oldman3

Lots of work, your lines look great, nice job...Jim

Thanks, it’s definitely a labor of love

[mongocanfly]

Wow...big price difference....you did a good job on it....