Shifter Stuck in Tilt Column

[67L30WGN]

I have a '72 with a tilt steering column, an automatic and only 84K original miles. The shifter has always been smooth and easy. After driving one day, I pulled into my driveway and went to put the truck in Park, but I couldn't. In fact, I could just barely get it into Neutral from Drive. I can move the shifter to the lower Drive settings, but not the other direction. I disconnected the shifter at the tranny and the problem is clearly in the steering column. What could be jamming the shifter in the column?

[Palf70Step]

The only thing that comes to mind is the end of the shifter inside the column has cracked/broken off and it won't move the guts right.

[too much stuff]

Does the shifter move back and forth? Try some wd-40 or similar right in where the shifter goes in the housing.

[sneakysnake]

Here is all the parts, but a good oiling is a place to start.

[jeffspower]

I had a column that would do the same thing after sitting too long. the problem was in the end outside the firewall. The detent sliding tube thingy would get stuck. Penatrating oil would always free it up.

[pat 70/71]

Originally Posted by jeffspower

I had a column that would do the same thing after sitting too long. the problem was in the end outside the firewall. The detent sliding tube thingy would get stuck. Penatrating oil would always free it up.

I had one do the same thing, cleaned the lever (btm of the column) & wd40 I think it was full of dirt/goop? any hoo, I would start there first its the least$$$ good luck ...Pat

[Sammy]

Imagine something has dislodge inside the assy creating interference. Wonder if those torque screws could do that? Anyway interested to see what he finds. I don't remember what I used on that spline nut but didn't have any difficulty with a standard socket as I recall.

[Sammy]

That should be trying to move as one piece. I'm thinking removal and almost full disassembly to figure it out. If you haven't already guess you could disconnect the linkage at the column. Here are three pics of the tilt mechanism from when I worked on mine. In the third pic shows where the lever fits inside and the two screws (3 and 9 o clock) are on the two pins you pull to disassemble the head. Hope this helps. Good luck.

[67L30WGN]

The pictures are very helpful, guys.

Here is the bearing nut I need a special socket to remove it without damaging it. Any suggestions?



Here is the loose piece (brown plastic piece on right) I found when I removed the large spring. What is this for?



And here is the bottom of my column showing how far up my shifter lever is only able to rotate. It stops about halfway up the slot in the outer jacket.

[Sammy]

That nut I think I used a large pair of angled pliers. My Dad calls water pump type. That piece on the R/H side was a piece of hard rubber wasn't it? I believe it was used as an isolator or dampner in the upper housing and there was like 4 of them..And mine were dislodged after screwin with the reassembly, I put some gasket sealer and reinstalled them.

[Sammy]

Once you get that nut off be careful, keep an eye out for loose ball bearings in case the bearing assy is toast. Looks like some corrosion..

[Sammy]

Look at snakes (post 4)breakdown shows 3 bumpers..

[Sammy]

Yeah, I can tell your retaining nut wasn't falling off. And the evidence of being difficult. That nut might be hard to find if you FUBAR that one. The only possible way you might try besides applying some heat would be to file a small groove into one side just enough to make a place for a screwdriver to tap it loose with a hammer in a counter-clockwise direction.

[Palf70Step]

I would not try and remove the nut with the side cover on. With the cover off you can get a decent grip with channel locks or vice grips and get it started. I used PB Blaster a good bit on mine. It still seemed like for ever to get off because of the fine threads.

[67L30WGN]

Good point. I started to put a puller on the outer shell, but was having trouble grabbing the rolled edge, so stopped for now.

[ls1nova71]

What ever you do, DON'T heat the nut! It's a very thin nylock lock nut, you'll melt the nylon out of it. Like was said before, take the upper housing off first. You can tap it off from the bottom with a small flat blade screwdriver if you don't have a puller, then take the three screws out of the turn signal switch, move it to the side, then just use a small pair of vice grips on the nut, but only tighten them enough to get a grip on the nut, any more and you will be fighting yourself because you will be squeezing the nut to the shaft.

The small triangle thing is a rubber bumper, when tilted up it's like a little bumpstop so it's not metal to metal hitting.

All that been said, my guess is that the shift pointer has broken off and fallen down inside the shift bowl, and that is what is probably hanging it up.

[67L30WGN]

LS1Nova71, From the looks of your username, you'll appreciate my latest acquisition - 1965 Nova SS; 283/PG; 10,680 actual miles; original Evening Orchid paint.

PS. I'm glad you mentioned not heating the nut. I noticed the nut was a nyloc. Besides the bearing cage would melt, too.

[67ss&99ss]

Originally Posted by 67L30WGN

LS1Nova71, From the looks of your username, you'll appreciate my latest acquisition - 1965 Nova SS; 283/PG; 10,680 actual miles; original Evening Orchid paint.

PS. I'm glad you mentioned not heating the nut. I noticed the nut was a nyloc. Besides the bearing cage would melt, too.

I like that car. My uncle has several 65 Novas and is currently restoring a 65 SS 283 4 speed car.

[tll74]

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[Palf70Step]

Originally Posted by 67L30WGN

Good point. I started to put a puller on the outer shell, but was having trouble grabbing the rolled edge, so stopped for now.

I had the same issue. I ended up using a small screw driver, and tapping it with a hammer to slowly push the sleeve off.

[Sammy]

In this application I wouldn't use heat either. One of the other ideas should work.

[67L30WGN]

Found the problem. The pointer of my shift indicator had long ago broken off. The plastic piece that remained in the bowl all off a sudden decided to come loose and slide down the slot into the opening in the jacket tube, preventing full rotation in the CCW direction. (See the pictures) I assume this piece can only be R&R'd by removing the bowl, as I can't seem to pull it out through the top, which leads me to my next problem...

Now I was able to remove the cover by inserting appropriately shaped screw drives into the hazard button hole and the tilt lever hole and gently prying up. Then I was able to gain full access to the bearing nylock nut and remove it, but not the wedge. After that I was able to remove the pins either side of the tilt mechanism and start to pull it away, but it doesn't seem to want to slide off all the way easily. It's pulling the tilt knuckle/shaft with it. Do I just yank on it or do I need to remove the wedge at the bearing or do I have to release the shaft from the other end of the steering column? How do I get the wedge out without damaging the bearing?

I need to remove that plastic shift indicator piece and replace it with a new one (if I can find one).

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by 67L30WGN

It's pulling the tilt knuckle/shaft with it. Do I just yank on it or do I need to remove the wedge at the bearing or do I have to release the shaft from the other end of the steering column? How do I get the wedge out without damaging the bearing?

Glad you figured out the problem, that's exactly what I thought the problem was going to be, I've seen it before.

To get that piece off, don't "just yank it off", put the tilt lever back in and pull it, like you're tilting the column down so the lock shoes will release from the pin. Then lightly tapping the steering shaft down should free up the wedge.

One other thing, don't try to remove the shift bowl with the column in the truck, it will be next to impossible to reinstall that way. Get a small pick or something and try and push the broken piece back up and out the way it went in. Then when you get a new pointer, make sure it slides freely in the shift bowl, sometimes they're too tight and will not stay on the shift indicator housing. I've sanded them down a little in the past to make them easier to slide.

BTW, VERY nice Nova!

[Sammy]

You are very close to getting to your problem. I had my column sitting on my bench when I tore it apart. But by the pics, you still have the head assy still installed. Remove the gear shift lever and the turn lever to gain further access from the top. Slide the turn signal assy up out of the way by disconnecting the plug under the dash and gently move the wires for room for movement. Don't know if you are going to get deep enough with out sliding the column from the truck and replacing that indicator.

[Palf70Step]

Glad you found the issue. And yes you can still order the pointer fro the tilt. I know LMC has them, so I assume all the board vendors do also.