which frame?

[purplehavoc]

Hey guys
I have a 56 GMC short step that i'am starting to tear into.Not slamming to the ground or making a show truck,just a nice driver that i'am not affraid to use.
Problem is i don't have a short bed frame.What i have is a 57 long bed frame
that is still in really nice condition,but completly stock.

I also have a 84 chevy short box frame that has a 5/7 drop with C notch and axle flip.

I realize either frame will need some mods,but would like some opinions on which way some of you guys might go.

Thanks for any advice.

[blackdiesel]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT Here is a truck put on a 73 frame, which is real close to your 84. Your stock 57 long frame will need shorten, and I would put IFS under it. I always thought the 73-86 track was to wide but the truck on e-bay looks ok. You will have to deside what's right for you , and your needs.

[purplehavoc]

If i used the 84 frame should the wheel base be shortened from 117" or can it be made to work?
Heard of some guys streching the wheelbase when they clip them to centre the tires better.

[56hotrodred]

I am using an 80 SWB frame under a 56 Chevy SWB. If I remember correctly the frames are the same width but the wheels fill the wheel well a bit more. I still have the stock rally rims and have not lowered it yet which I will - although just a few inches front and back. This could be fixed, especially if you are going to lay it low by changing the offset of the rims - I have only heard this and have not decided what I am going to do yet in this regard. I like the stock rallies a lot.

Your 84 frame sounds ideal.

As far as centering the wheels in the wheel wells that can be accomplished a couple of ways. The 84 frame is several inches longer so if one sets the body on the frame making sure you have clearance around the steering box up front and centering the rear wheels you will have a gap between the cab and box about 4 or 5 inches.

Some that I have seen have left the large gap others have simply moved the box ahead while still others have moved the box ahead and then adjusted the rear fenders as much as they can. I have two 4 inch pieces of box sides with rail that I bought from a forum member that I am thinking of welding into the front side of the box to fill it in although I have not done it yet. Others have shortened the frame but I want to leave my frame alone so I can order OEM parts (i.e. brake lines, steering, etc...) and the fact that i just do not want to cut into a frame.

You will also need to adjust the front cab mounts as the 84 frame drops several inches just ahead of the cab. I took the old ones off my 56 frame and built them up 4 inches and now have them clamped onto the 80 frame with the cab sitting on top. The older rear cab mounts can be used as is on the newer frame.

The most challenging for me was the rad support on the newer frame but I am sure there are numerous ways that that could be done. It really was not that hard just tested me a bit. I actually used another rad support and turned it around and modified the bottom a bit to attach. I used some old bumper brackets I had laying around and think when it is all cleaned up it will look like it has always been there.

I changed frames pretty much because my 56 was bent up in several spots and I got the 80 frame already stripped down for pretty cheap and after reading this and several other forums. Knowing what I know now and if I had a good straight frame I might stay with the old one. There are more aftermarket parts for the older frames by the looks of it.

Let me know if I can help. I have not tried to post any picture in a long while but could try if you wanted to see anything.

56hotrodred

[Mark Mazzanti]

Look at this website www.e-zchassisswaps.com It looks like they have a kit that would use everything you have.

[56hotrodred]

I was just looking at that www again the other day.

They have kits to mount the TF trucks to Caprice car frames not quit the same but I bet there are lots of pieces that if they could be purchased separately would help. The prices seem real reasonable and I bet it would make a decent driver.

EDIT # 1 I STAND CORRECTED I WENT BACK TO THE WWW AND SCROLLED DOWN A BIT FARTHER AND SEE THE KIT FOR THE FULL SIZE TRUCK FRAME. I AM GOING TO LOOK MUCH CLOSER MYSELF AT THIS PLACE!

EDIT # 2 WOW I WISH THEY WOULD HAVE HAD THIS READY WHEN I STARTED MINE. BUT BY LOOKING A BIT CLOSER YET IT IS LISTED AS BEING IN PRE-PRODUCTION. FOR SOMEONE JUST STARTING WHO ALREADY HAS A FRAME AND FOR LESS THAN $700.00 IT IS A GOOD DEAL - IF IT ALL WORKS. I MAY BE TRYING TO GET SOME INDIVIDUAL PARTS IN THE NEAR FUTURE.

TO THE ORIGINAL POST THIS REALLY LOOKS LIKE WHAT YOU WANT AND NEED TO USE THE LOWERED 84 FRAME. YOU WOULD BE UP AND RUNNING IN NO TIME.

56hotrodred

[Silveradobs]

[img]

[Silveradobs]

My 56 on a 74 frame-

[56hotrodred]

Originally Posted by Silveradobs

My 56 on a 74 frame-

I forgot to say that I really like the looks of your truck. The stance is very close to what I am looking to obtain.

What rim offset, rim size and size of tires do you have in order to tuck the tires inside the fenders like that? Did you have any trouble with finding the right offset?

In looking at my body on the later frame I could not just drop the body and expect the tires to sit inside the fenders. I still have the stock rally rims that I really like.

56hotrodred

[purplehavoc]

I disscussed my C notch when i emailed him about the kit.
I still like the sounds of the kit as it would make the body mounting alot easier.
I am a decent welder and my buddy happens to own a welding/fab shop in town,so taking a section out of the frame shouldn't be to big of a deal.

I will have to shorten a frame either way i go.
I like the look of mine right now too with the stock rally's.

[blackdiesel]

thats a nice truck, what did you do to get it that low?

[purplehavoc]

That is a nice looking truck silveradobs.
I would like a stance somewhere around that.Low enough,but can still drive it.

Thanks for the web site.That sounds like a sweet set up.
That would speed things up alot.Would be nice as my 84 frame has already been worked over.

56hotrodred i would like to see a pic or 2 of your ride if you can.

[Silveradobs]

I agree with "56hotrodred" Knowing what I know now-I would use a stock frame. Mine turned out nice, but it takes hours and hours of labor, even for the smallest item. Do not leave space between the cab and bed, you want it to look like a stock frame is under the 56. Very simple, take a few inches off of the rear frame rails. I orginally centerened the rear wheels, but it did not look right, moved them forward abit. Here are the keys-front clip will determine lenght of wheelbase, orginal is 114 1/2 and 73 to 87 is 117 and 1/2 I think. Cab will determine height, make sure the steps align with the rockers. If I had to do it again, other than using a stock frame, I would use a 67-72 frame (115"wheelbase and the frame runs level or straight under the cab, plus you get trailing arm suspension, if your are into traction.) Mine has a 406 cu in. small block, comp cam roller, gmpp fastburn heads, etc.etc. built 700r4 trans, 3:73 rear and is used for one of my business vehicles. Bed cross sils, shorted drive shaft, cab mounts, and yes- the radiator support takes alot of time. I cannot stress this enought-WHEEL OFFSET IS THE MOST IMPORTANT ITEM, unless you want it to look like a 4wd. Spindles are ECE 2 1/2 drop, with 1 1/2 lower springs in front, the back is 4" lowering leafs with shackles and the lowering front spring hangers. The wheelbase is handled by removing the rivets from the spring hangers (big job) and re-drilling the holes, then using grade 8 bolts. The Good news is that it rides good (for a lowered truck) and parts for 73-87 trucks are a dime a dozen.

[56hotrodred]

That is some good information right there. I was thinking about moving the rear end forward but was unsure of how to go about it. After supper I am going right out there to sit down beside it and think some more!!!

I am still thinking about adding 3 or 4 inches to the front of the box though. It would be pretty easy and most would not even notice the difference. The longer I can keep the wheelbase the better the ride will be.

I am also wanting to put my fuel tank in the front of the box and hide it behind another box front with some sort of louvered top cover. The inside of the box would then be effectively shortened but I am never going to use this one as a truck. I have a couple of other ones to perform those sorts of duties.

Hey purplehavoc I just saw that you are from Kenora. I use to spend summers near Fort Frances on my grandparents farm. Lots of boating, fishing and camping on the Rainy Lake and the numerous islands. Also stock car races at a place called Emo where one of my uncles raced a 57 Plymouth car with a 350 Golden Commando semi-hemi. I got to go in the pits with him. That was a riot for a youngster.

Will try to get some pictures up this weekend when I get back from a short job.

56hotrodred

[purplehavoc]

I figure i have a lot of work either way that i go.
The 57 frame would still have to be shortened and clipped.
On the other hand i am kind of screwed for moving the rear axle on my 84 frame as the frame has been notched.Not a real big deal if i have to take a few inches out of the frame.Won't be leaving a gap between bed and cab for sure.

Looking into the swap kit a bit further,looks like it could be the way to fly.

Hey 56hotrodred good fishing around here for sure,but still miss my B.C. salmon fishing.
Girlfriend has family down in Fort and Rainy.
Emmo has some mud races every summer that are a good time.Don't think there is much other races now,since the forest industry fell through the floor.

[jsmithbm]

Not trying to hijack the thread, but where could i find some info on the S-10 frame swap for a 58? i never have much luck with the search option here.
Thanks alot, this is for my dad who just bought a 58

[56hotrodred]

Originally Posted by jsmithbm

Not trying to hijack the thread, but where could i find some info on the S-10 frame swap for a 58? i never have much luck with the search option here.
Thanks alot, this is for my dad who just bought a 58

The S10 frame is not generally recommended to go under the Task Force (55 to 59) trucks as it is too narrow I believe. It is used under the earlier AD trucks.

This thread has been talking about the use of 73 to 87 frame under the TF trucks. Check out the e-z chassis www site mentioned earlier here.

56hotrodred

[jjjmm56]

Stick with the stock frame and add a 70+ camaro sub. If your not hauling anything throw out the leaf springs and and build a simple trailing arm 3 link setup. Get some 6"dia pipe split it and c notch your frame any place you like. Then you could bag it ,ues coilovers or coil and shock setup.Trim your frame to any length you choose. Cut 1 coil off the camaro front springs and you have a good sitting and riding truck. But whatever you do box the stock frame. I just ran into a problem where I had a crack I didn't see under the crossmember behind the cab.

[purplehavoc]

Still debating on the 2 frames,but leaning towards the newer frame as it is already lowered.
I am also interested to see how well this new kit works.
Probably stick with leafs in the back as i just want a nice driver,so nothing to fancy.
As far as steering cracks go, the 73-87 chevy frames were bad for cracking around the box or tearing them off.

[56hotrodred]

Originally Posted by purplehavoc

Still debating on the 2 frames,but leaning towards the newer frame as it is already lowered.
I am also interested to see how well this new kit works.
Probably stick with leafs in the back as i just want a nice driver,so nothing to fancy.
As far as steering cracks go, the 73-87 chevy frames were bad for cracking around the box or tearing them off.

I have looked at some of his kit and it looks pretty good. Once I get back to building I am going to see if I can get some of his parts.

For now I am going to keep my rear leafs although I will probably replace them with lower ones as well as lower the front with lowering springs and spindles. My dream is to go Air Ride all around but for about $7,000.00 that will have to wait.

In the kit they have pieces (i.e. wheelbase correctors) that re-position the rear axle forward 3 inches on the leafs. I really would like to see how that works as that would save me a lot of grief. Does anyone see any problem(s) with simply moving the axle forward using a re-positioning plate?

For your 84 with the c-notch and lowering already done it might be best to shorten the frame if you know a really good welder. You therefore might not need the complete kit.

As said he did send me copies of some of his instructions. I can't forward them to anyone but you could ask him to see something specific if you wanted.

I don't think I have heard about the steering box/frame cracking problem. Would be pretty easy to check and possibly fix the frame before setting the body on it. I think I am going to replace my steering box with a close-ratio one.

56hotrodred