how good of a deal is this and what is its value?

[crwinger]

A family friend is selling a 1972 Cheyenne super k20. It is a camper special with 350/th350/corporate rear. It is lwb, has cab lights. Its paint is a yr and a half old. Interior has been restored and looks great except for original radio not working and glove box door faded. Has about 5 spots on light surface rust about size of eraser tip near sunvisors. That is on 'rust' on it. I looked at it underneath while on lift and it looked great although had been undercoated. The inner rockers were replaced and no rust in the rockers or cab corners. Mechanically it is sound and everything runs/drives good. A/c isn't working and compressor may need replaced. I am new to Chevy/GMC trucks but I wanted to get an assessment of its value. He is asking 10k. Is that good and what would u value it at. Only thing I didn't do was check the Vin on the frame. Are the block or trans stamped? I am doing this on phone will link more pics later




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[jocko]

WELCOME to the board. It's a very nice truck you're looking at there - lots of great options.

Here are the nit noids:
Although it has RPO Z81, the custom camper nameplates are mounted in an odd spot for a 72, fwd on the door vice above the door handle.... (see pic below). Aside from that slightly (ok, highly) annoying little weirdness, it's a beautiful, very highly optioned, K20 Super. Note it's had a paint scheme change from white/blue/white to just blue. Also, I haven't been drinking, but the mirrors look very out o whack. Incorrectly mounted, or the incorrect mirrors (the latter I believe). I've never seen a mirror that had lower leg mounting points that were not level horizontally and the mirro head attach point indicates non-stock mirror, ro whatever that's worth. But I could be wrong. Also, noted that the NL2 Aux Fuel Tank seems to have disappeared (it should have an upper bed filler cap - somewhat like the pic below). I think the spray-in bedliner detracts from the value slightly, but if you're gonna use it like a truck (hopefully), it might be considered a bonus.

I'd say $10K is a very fair price for that truck. If it weren't for the little weird things (personal peeves) mentioned above, I'd be more than willing to pay more than that for it. RPO combo makes it very desirable (specifically: Cheyenne Super + Custom Camper + Buckets + cab clearance lights (note that it has the cab clearance light-specific cab with raised mounting pads, which it should when it's an RPO on the SPID) + tach + aux tank (at some time) + a/c).

I also wonder if this truck was an exampe of the 3-tone white/blue/white vice the more common Deluxe 2-tone (white on top and middle, vice white on top and bottom). We've had several discussions on here about the possibility of a 72 having a special order paint job like that. The presence of the order number on the bottom of the SPID means it was a special order (but not sure if that is because of the paint). If it was special order paint with earlier-year 3-tone, that is a very cool thing and a great way to restore it somewhere way down the road. I really like it and the price is more than fair.

[srvivor71]

From the few pictures here, it looks like a really nice truck. If it runs well, the body is truly straight and it has a good quality paint job, I think that is a good price for a K20 Super Cheyenne. How many miles are on it?

[Lee H]

Welcome to the board. That looks like a nice truck. If it's not hiding a lot of rust that's a good price.

[leddzepp]

I got close to that for my truck...and this one is nicer. I agree the price is good if there isn't any rust hiding under the new paint.
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[big_al_71]

pretty good deal if it all checks out

[MusicMan70]

Great Truck with great options. Quoted price seems where it should be.

[Ol Blue K20]

That is how the paint is listed on my spid (white top and white center) That truck was a custom order you can see the order number lower right of spid.

[jocko]

thanks Blue, that makes sense - and when I look closer at the SPID, the letters for color are all filled out to the right of the text area, so it was almost certainly a deluxe two-tone. I was hopeful though! Anyway, many times, on colors like red, etc (with less letters), the next "/" and another "red" would show up to indicate deluxe two tone. The RPO indicates that also, but I didn't have my secret decoder ring handy.

Yes, custom order was what I was talking about in the lower right. Considering it is a deluxe two tone, then the special order was simply for this specific combo of options together. The original owner knew exactly what he wanted and ordered it from the factory. Very cool.

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by crwinger

A family friend is selling a 1972 Cheyenne super k20. It is a camper special with 350/th350/corporate rear. It is lwb, has cab lights. Its paint is a yr and a half old. Interior has been restored and looks great except for original radio not working and glove box door faded. Has about 5 spots on light surface rust about size of eraser tip near sunvisors. That is on 'rust' on it. I looked at it underneath while on lift and it looked great although had been undercoated. The inner rockers were replaced and no rust in the rockers or cab corners. Mechanically it is sound and everything runs/drives good. A/c isn't working and compressor may need replaced. I am new to Chevy/GMC trucks but I wanted to get an assessment of its value. He is asking 10k. Is that good and what would u value it at. Only thing I didn't do was check the Vin on the frame. Are the block or trans stamped? I am doing this on phone will link more pics later

Asking what it's worth is like asking how tall is tall. Get a refrigerator magnet...you know,the kind your insurance agent sends you every year and drag it advertising side down over the lower cab corners, rockers, lower front passenger side fender and the A pillars on both sides. If it doesn't stick there's bondo under it and you will likely have to weld patch panels into those spots. Check the frame where the front cross member goes in, if it's wrinkled or kinked it's been hit hard on that side. Do the same in the rear. If it looks good it's probably worth 10K or so but if there's bondo everywhere and the frame has a kink or two in it, it's worth about a hundred bucks no matter what the paint looks like.

[SS Tim]

Guys this truck has been here before! It is nice to see it here again with a SPID this time. It does now appear to be a very nicely equipped 72 K20 but the restoration has expensive to correct details needed to take the truck to an "as built" condition. The mirrors, grill, paint and Custom Camper emblems are going to cost money to correct and all stand out as "incorrect" in even a casual walk around. Most of the add on accessories give it a little individual character (nix the steps). The price, to me, seems high considering current condition and A/C issues. However, I would like to see a lot more pictures including under side and under hood. Also would like to know a lot of details prior to and during the restoration. While the SPID looks original there are still questions on how origional the rest of this truck is. Here are some older pictures and an example of the correct 482 Deluxe Two-Tone paint.

Post #161
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=476940&page=7

[Sideways]

I remember that one,nicely optioned truck and aside from the oddities that Jocko mentioned and the body is'nt full of filler I would say that is a very fair price IMO.

[crwinger]

I messed up linking the pictures before...

[A.Bursell]

Looks like a nice truck overall to me. Don't think I would want to pay that much due to the issues like emblems and mirrors that I would want to fix, but if it doesn't bother you-- no biggie.

One thing that makes me a little nervous is the rust on the roof inside. That would seem to indicate water has gotten in (maybe through cab lights?), and there may be an issue. I would think ti could be an expensive fix if it's not the cab lights and turns out to be drip rail issues.

Adam

[crwinger]

I had noticed the location of the custom camper script. Is it simply double sided tape?

As far as the A/C it actually needs only a new clutch, not the entire compressor replaced.

Aside from the oddities which will annoy the purist, if I were to buy it would I be overpaying for the super/custom camper combo? I mean Who knows if the springs are original(does it look original height for a k20?)

I mostly want a 3/4ton lwb, 4x4, AC, bucket seats, auto, with cab lights. This one fits the bill. The super cheyenne/custom camper options aren't necessary but would be nice for long term value.

The truck will be driven as a truck and not a trailer queen. I am in graduate school and plan to DD this or my 79 camaro(383 and 200r4).

[crwinger]

o yea, when he put it up on his 2 post lift he hit his garage door opener and busted a lens on the cab lights.

So if I get it, are these available still?

[jocko]

yes, cab lights are available. repops ( http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cb/full.aspx?Page=162 ) and NOS ones show up on here every once in awhile. The Custom Camper badge is normally attaced with two posts, nuts behind (i.e. 2 holes in the body, sorry...) To me, it looks like it's stock ride height in the rear, MAYBE a little high in front - or it's stock. If it doesn't have hidden rust, I think $10K is fair. And for the combo of wants you listed, this DOES fit the bill. You could look for a long time before you find a K20 with buckets in any lower trim level. If it's what you want, and it's not hiding rust under bondo - I'd take the leap (but I love spending other people's money..). Someday down the road, you can correct the holes left behind by putting the custom camper emblems in the correct place and putting correct mirrors on it. The slots are cool - didn't see those before.

Now, this is a bit ghetto - but you can temporarily fill the holes if you move the camper emblems and install a better mirror - with simple metal plugs (I got some at Home Depot, near the bolt section, available in many sizes, they just pop into the hole and can be easily pried/popped out when you get ready to do the body work down the road someday), painted to match. They are inexpensive placeholders. The truck below has them (about 4 or more per door, where the camper mirrors used to be), and it's hard to see unless you're looking straight at them...

[jocko]

btw, I know I've been harping on the mirrors a bit - just to be clear, as long as they are functional, you could certainly leave them until you start changing/fixing stuff later in life. But for reference - here are the correct mirrors:

[PAWS 72]

Originally Posted by jocko

yes, cab lights are available. repops ( http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cb/full.aspx?Page=162 ) and NOS ones show up on here every once in awhile. The Custom Camper badge is normally attaced with two posts, nuts behind (i.e. 2 holes in the body, sorry...) To me, it looks like it's stock ride height in the rear, MAYBE a little high in front - or it's stock. If it doesn't have hidden rust, I think $10K is fair. And for the combo of wants you listed, this DOES fit the bill. You could look for a long time before you find a K20 with buckets in any lower trim level. If it's what you want, and it's not hiding rust under bondo - I'd take the leap (but I love spending other people's money..). Someday down the road, you can correct the holes left behind by putting the custom camper emblems in the correct place and putting correct mirrors on it. The slots are cool - didn't see those before.

Now, this is a bit ghetto - but you can temporarily fill the holes if you move the camper emblems and install a better mirror - with simple metal plugs (I got some at Home Depot, near the bolt section, available in many sizes, they just pop into the hole and can be easily pried/popped out when you get ready to do the body work down the road someday), painted to match. They are inexpensive placeholders. The truck below has them (about 4 or more per door, where the camper mirrors used to be), and it's hard to see unless you're looking straight at them...

Jocko, is that your garage there? just joking.

[PAWS 72]

That is a nice looking truck.

[70chevytruck]

I would give $8000 all day long and think I got a deal....$10K is a little high for me.

However...if it looks as good as the pictures you could Mecum it all day long and make money.

Pretty rare combo all the way around...I haven't seen one like it in a long time.

[jocko]

Originally Posted by PAWS 72

Jocko, is that your garage there? just joking.

I sure wish it was - that was a collection the owner had - I ALMOST bought that truck. Some days I like banana yellow, somedays, not so much... But it was a VERY nice truck. It was last offered at $7500, and I don't know if it ever sold, but the curator left a msg on my answering machine making one alst ditch effort... Very worth the asking price.

[SS Tim]

When there is a plastic plug in the antenna hole painted over (or is it just a hole still open months later?) I really worry about the quality and originality of the truck. With a possible replacement bed/side and all the little detail issues I would look very closely before paying more than driver price. Verification of the cab and frame VIN numbers and rivets would be a first step. Looking into the possible visor area rust would be very smart. Might even check to see if the bucket seat brace and reinforcements are there under the undercoating. If the A/C system truly "only needs a clutch", as cheap as they are I cannot see trying to sell a truck in this price range without doing the repair.

[crwinger]

other than the magnet to check for bondo, what should I check to see if the cab/bed/frame are original. I know the vin should be stamped on the frame near the steering gear. Other than the SPID, where on the cab is the VIN. Is it stamped anywhere else like the doors or bed or other places on the cab.

[SS Tim]

Like I said before, look under the cab for the bucket seat brace and reinforcements. Look for remains of the aux. tank fuel lines and harness that may have been left in. Look for holes in the floor betweeen the driver's seat and the weather strip for the fuel selector valve. Look for the fuel tank selector switch or hole on the far left side of the dash, to the left of the cluster. Look for repairs to the bed floor (mounting bolts and filler) and side to see if the aux. tank filler has been filled over. The bed/side may have been replaced. The doors should have a screw on the inside right under the vent window post (72 only change).


The VIN can be found:
On the frame near the steering box and under the cab, generally.
The glove box door on the SPID label (screwed on)
The data plate on the driver's door post (riveted on with special rivets)
Certification label on the driver's door (blue sticker)
The warranty Protect-O-Plate
The build sheet.

These are going to be the only likely sources for you.
On this truck being a St.Louis build it would be very unlikely to have a build sheet.
Sometimes you will also find old registration or insurance cards with the VIN as well. On something like this they have probably been cleaned out.
On the good side the SPID does look original. Its the rest of the truck I have the problem with. I'd look very hard at the plate for originality