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Old 08-14-2003, 11:30 PM   #1
SCOTI
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Replacing window regulators

I've got to replace the driver side non/pwr. window regulator on my 74. Any tips or tricks to make the job easier??
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 08-15-2003, 12:40 AM   #2
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Thats the little switch right?
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Old 08-15-2003, 11:23 AM   #3
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Nope. Non-power windows. The regulator looks like it's held in place w/4 bolts. I'm just trying to figure out any tricks to get the regulator out & make everything go easier upon re-assembly.
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 08-15-2003, 11:33 AM   #4
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Scot, it is really not that difficult. You will want to tape the glass to the top of the window frame to keep it from falling. Once the regulator is loose just slide the guide rollers to the end of the guide to remove. Make sure you go ahead and lube the guides when the new one goes back in. Silicone spray works good in the felt run channels to make the glass go up easier also. You shouldn't have any problems.

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Old 08-16-2003, 09:12 PM   #5
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Matt, have you done this vintage before? I was going to ask you but figured you had worked on the newer stuff.... nothing this old.
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89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 08-18-2003, 01:34 PM   #6
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It shouldn't be too much different. I can't imagine you getting in there and not being able to figure it out. Feel free to call or bring it by if you want.

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Old 08-18-2003, 04:48 PM   #7
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Scot,
you can practice on yours and then come by and put my doors together
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Old 08-18-2003, 07:35 PM   #8
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Man.... I called the chevyhouse today, they get $100+tax for the regulator & I have to go down there & pay up front first. I guess that's better than the internet @ around $125 for genuine GM or $35 for aftermarket stuff.

My problem is.... I would want to replace them as a pair, you know, so they both work equally. I know, I'm a dork.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod
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89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck
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All Fleetsides
@rattlecankustoms in IG

Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 08-18-2003, 11:03 PM   #9
N2TRUX
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Quote:
Originally posted by SCOTI
..... I would want to replace them as a pair, you know, so they both work equally. I know, I'm a dork.
Yeah, we know you are a dork, but that's another issue :p

I say go with the GM units regardless. I ordered some more stuff from LMC, and got the same mix of good and bad. The windshield washer bottle was made in Tiawan, but it looks pretty close to OEM. The stickers I ordered are official GM restoration parts, but they aren't the right ones. They are close, but not correct.

I say go with GM stuff. It cost more, and may not be perfect either, but it's better than the crap shoot you take when ordering from LMC...
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