Doug's Dream

[lghtng2]

... now MY REALITY! hahahaha. My name is Jon and I have recently acquired a 1972 Chevy C-10 Long Bed 4x4 Project. Bought it like it is, bed is primer and needs painted and rhino lined, has a 350 sbc bored 40 over, high rise intake, 650 double pump Holley carb, roller lifters, comp cam 302 duration 500 lift, coated headers, flowmaster mufflers (LOUD!), and all dressed up billet pulleys/ chrome parts, it is a 4 speed freshly rebuilt, 6inch lift, 36in Super Swamper, Warn Lock Hubs, 2004 Chevy seats Lazer Red paint(yes it is a Ford color but it looks b.a. on this truck), the cab is a 72 Chevy C-10 V-6 1/2 ton, the chassis is a 68 Chevy 3/4 ton, and the bed is from a truck in Arizona. Lol its a bastard child of 3 trucks but it's my baby now. The owners that had it before me bought it and built it to be a pulling truck at tractor pulls but never finished the project ran out of money and time. The truck overall has very little rust and the suspension was done by a specialty shop in Springfield, IL. BDS shocks with new leaf springs 6in lift and the bed is blocked slightly higher. The wiring on this truck is another story. It runs great and has working radio, lights and gauges on the other hand not so great. I don't want to be a prick but they really half assed it and there are shorts, grounds, and loose wires everywhere! Thank god I went to an Automotive Tech school so this will not be a problem; diagnosis rip all that **** out and start over! I'm going to buy a painless wiring kit and fuse block as well as buying all new Autometer gauges. I figured out that 2 5/8, 3 3/8-3/4 and 5inch gauges are what I'll need but to get them to fit in the stock bezel it requires a little cutting. Once I have completed this I can begin the fun stuff like painting the bed, lining it inside and bottom, line the chassis and bottom of cab, cut a hole and install the 4x4 linkage, install the front driveshaft, remove the stock gas tank and get a fuel cell hooked up under the bed and make it a bed fill, repair some rust areas, install a better radio, change the oil, install wiper blades, and finally put some miles on the engine and get it broke in. The ultimate goal of this project is to have an affordable mudder that is also road worthy and not a complete eye soar but not quite show queen but could be someday. And have it all done and ready to pull out of the garage first day of spring! By the way did I mention it was SETUP FOR PULLING!?!? This could be an issue with the bogs, its a 3:73 gear limited slip 14 bolt. I'm not an expert with this since I am new to bogging and have very little build experience. So if ANYONE has any thoughts, ideas, ANYTHING that could help please post and let me know! Pics of dash coming as soon as I can afford the gauges =p

[Yukon Jack]

I assume you intend to keep the tire size at 36", right? If so, then yes, the 3.73's aren't really the optimal gear.

I have 4.56 gears in my 69 K20 and with it's 35" tires, I find driving at about 60 mph has the rpm's pretty high.

I have 4.10 gears in my 70 K5 and right now I have the 69's 35" tires on it. I really like this gear ratio with those tires. Highway rpm's are better, take off power is still fine for me.

With the 3.73's your highway rpm's will be fine but you'll lack power to get to speed.

I would say changing gears would be a good idea, but definitely doesn't have to be an immediate priority. Do remember you have to change the gear ratio in both axles.

Oh, welcome to the board and we need some pics of your new truck!

[LONGHAIR]

3.73s are not what I would call "bogging" gears. If that is your intent, then Yukon Jack's reccommendation of 4.56 is probably about right. I would probably rev a little high at highway speed, but if that is not it's main function, you will be fine.

[68,69 K20]

Welcome to the board!!! You came to the right place with 4x4 questions, lots of info and knowledgeable guys here.

I agree with the above answers, and would also like to see some pics, sounds like a pretty nice ride.

[pcwillsie]

i agree with both yukon and longhair on the gears. the thing that i have learned about building mudders and pullers is that automatic trannies and big blocks seem to work better. the automatic because you don't loose as much tire speed when it shifts which means less loss of momentum. and big blocks because they build more low end torque

[lghtng2]

Pic's, I think this is how you load'em. Not good with forum stuff =p

[lghtng2]

Sweet, it worked! Here's Some more!

[lghtng2]

Thanks for the advise guys! I'm glad to have the help of more experienced builders, I think after I address the main issues I'll get 4.10 gears. Also got a few things done like removed the old tint and cleaned my battery connections!

[lghtng2]

Pic of glass and Battery Connection CLEAN!!!

[royo]

WOW thats nice i would fix the wireing and drive that thing. gear swaps are high rent unless you can do them youself. could we get more pics of the frame an axles

[Yukon Jack]

Is that a Flex fan blade. If so, do a little research on them, they have a somewhat bad reputation of letting blades loose.

Nice looking truck, definitely a good foundation to work with to make it exactly like what you want.

[DieselEater]

Thats a nice truck.

I doubt the truck did well if it indeed was a puller.....3.73's and a small block, makes for a bad pulling combo?!

However, a set of 4.56's will do you fine. The 4.10's will seem perfect until you shift from 3rd to 4th on a hill. There is a HUGE jump in ratio's in the SM465 that makes third gear too low and 4th not quite enough.

Unless you plan on taking long trips on the Highway, I'd go with 4.56's. I got a 450HP 454 that I'd sell you pretty cheap, if you want to go that route too.

A.........

[amullis]

I think that you should drive the truck a little before you think about changing gears. You may be better off than you think since you have that foour speed. My brother and I built an 85 chevy with a set of 40's 350 four speed and 410 gears and loved it. Who knows you may like what you already have and just don't realize it yet!

[lghtng2]

DieselEater; I may be interestede in that 454 how much do you want for it? Also ya I plan on doing the wiring soon, as far as the gears I'm gonna wait till I have the money and deal with the 3.73 's for a little while. Plus eventually I will get bored with the 350 but for now it will do. I will try to have some pic's of the axles up some time tom or wed. But ya its definitely a solid truck for me to work with its exactly what I wanted. As far as the fan blades go I'm not sure I'll need to look into it but eventually down the road I will swap out the cooling system for something bigger and better, probably when I decide to swap the engine =p

[lghtng2]

Pic's of axles

[lghtng2]

more pics of axles

[lghtng2]

Parts ordered, just waiting on them to arrive. I decided to go with an aftermarket bezel from J and J engineering inc., Painless 18 circuit wiring and gauge harness. Buying the gauges once I get the dash looking at rpmoutlet.com they have a good selection of Autometer gauges cheap. After all the wiring is done cutting out the old tape deck den to put in a cd deck. Then after all thatm I' taking out the stock gas tank and putting a fuel cell in the bed. Also need to put in the 4x4! Lots to do pics and more coming soon.

[NEVERENOUGH]

That is a very nice starter to a great project. I look forward to all of your updates and progress.

[lghtng2]

Thanks, here's a picture of the dash I bought ~ can't wait to get it!

[FormerMember]

Those axles are from a late model truck.

You have a 10B front and a semi float 14B rear.

36" tires may be a bit much for them, if you really get on it and a tire gains traction.

If you end up going for a re-gear, swap the axles out instead. Should be able to find a full float 14B rear with 4.56's easily enough... some have Detroits in them from the factory... CUCV's come to mind. Front would be a Dana 44 or a Dana 60.

[lghtng2]

ya now that you mention it; I didn't notice it till you pointed it out... still new to build-ing a truck I've done muscle cars before but it was just minor stuff like interior, glass, electrical stuff... I'm really unsure what to do as far as the axles go. Plus I need to spend money on other stuff like getting the bed painted and lined but it'll be money worth spent when its all done Also thinking about getting a fuel cell, having the gas tank behind the seat doesn't sit well with me. Any ideas on fuel cell mount location?
-Jon

Any and All ideas are greatly appreciated and may be used in my build

[84 400]

I do not know how easy it is on your year but what about a 73-92 suburban tank mounted in between the rear frame rails? I personally do not mind the gas tank behind the seat thing but I know it does not sit well with alot of people. The burb tank would allow you to utilized the bed better. Just an Idea. I am not a 67-72 guy so maybe one of them knows of a good tank swap for you.

[lghtng2]

Ya, I'm thinking about going that route. I'd like to find someone who has done it on a 72' chevy truck... if ya find anyone who does send'em my way. I'm gonna try to do more research on it tonight/ morning. gotta love graveyard shift!

[FormerMember]

I have a burb tank in my Longhorn project. Pics in my sig.

[skchevota]

What year is the frame? It looks( from the one Picture) To be somthing other than a 67-72. The rail doesnt go up after the cab? Could just be the picture?