Ranger box for a rock cru

[Don Quixote]

I am contemplating installing a ranger overdrive in front of my rock crusher. From what I have found so far it ought to be easy enough to install and it will still handle my beast of a cargo trailer whenever I move. Any thoughts?

[1972RedNeck]

Originally Posted by Don Quixote

I am contemplating installing a ranger overdrive in front of my rock crusher. From what I have found so far it ought to be easy enough to install and it will still handle my beast of a cargo trailer whenever I move. Any thoughts?

Go for it. I was going to stick one in my Ford but the t-case is too close. It looks like a slick deal.

[Don Quixote]

I was waiting for someone to tell me that 2 sticks is too much of a hassle and I should dump $3000 on a gear vendors. Truth is that 2 sticks are not a big deal and it's only about a thousand. I am running 3.73s and I really need to go back to 4.11s and this box should be my highway answer. I was wondering if anyone else had done it for pulling trailers and if they really do hold up to the same strain my old Muncie takes. I agree that it seems like a slick deal, I hope it actually is.
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[1972RedNeck]

Originally Posted by Don Quixote

I was waiting for someone to tell me that 2 sticks is too much of a hassle and I should dump $3000 on a gear vendors. Truth is that 2 sticks are not a big deal and it's only about a thousand.

I would take 2 levers over a switch any day. For me, levers seem to be more reliable. The Ranger would work in all gears too, where the GV unit only kicks in around 30 MPH.
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[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by 1972RedNeck

I would take 2 levers over a switch any day. For me, levers seem to be more reliable. The Ranger would work in all gears too, where the GV unit only kicks in around 30 MPH.
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Pretty sure they split all the gears, starting with 1 so you have holeshot as well. You don't have to worry about breaking the GV from what I've read. I think cost is the only downside, that is what has prevented me as well from pulling the trigger

[Don Quixote]

Sorry for not getting back to you sooner. Got caught up at work and I completely forgot I posted this thread until I looked again for shiggles and saw my own post.

I ended up staying with my current setup and put my money into a full floating 14 bolt instead. I still like the idea but the only real advantage I see myself getting is having a gear between 3rd and 4th which would still be nice but not really worth the investment.

Maybe someday but the Gear Vendors is still out. I run a manual transmission for a reason, I like to drive the truck, it doesn't need to drive me.

[Don Quixote]

I can't justify spending over $3000 on some gears when my 465 was only $500 to rebuild. I really don't mind the levers. I used to drive a 2 stick Mack. I just want to make sure I don't blow it apart pulling my trailer.

The cost of either one is killing me. My max cruising speed is about 65 (without going over 2800rpm) and an overdrive would give me the splits which would be handy but if I am climbing and need to downshift, then I can't really go over 30. A bit cumbersome but better than shelling out 1 year of my truck's allowance on gears.

[Spartan]

I've benn thinking about overdrive. This thread was helpful.
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[SS Tim]

Done a lot of research on O/D boxes and many over the years have come up short. The ranger box seems like a good idea and for many people it should work out well. For those that are interested in a real installation here is a link for a unit installed behind a 300 I-6. Remember research means looking at all realistically available sources.
http://www.fordification.com/tech/torque-splitter.htm


My thoughts are in a V-8 4x2 Chevy (within torque limits) it should work out for you. The trans will be only about 3.5" further aft than an I-6 installation. A modified I-6 stick should be the way to go for seat clearance.
On a 4x4 things are a little more difficult trying to find a shorter trans to t-case adapter or moving everything back the 7", reworking front and rear drivelines and the t-case shifter to bring it back forward of the seat.

In the end I feel that a Gear Vedors is going to be the best choice and they can often be found used. The main installation is a tailshaft replacement or t-case output mounting. Of note is the fact that they are available as carrier bearing replacement installation which to me seems the best for a 127-133" wb and the only for a 157" (reduced forward driveshaft speeds). Finally they can be installed between the trans and t-case if you have to have it that way.

Just remember there are a lot of the earlier "J" type Laycock overdrives being sold a s GV units. However in some applications these may work well for you. An I-6 3OTT would be an excellent driveline to experiment on as it would be very similar to the factory O/D performance wise.