A couple Fatman and HTH pictures - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

68LSS1 · 10-10-2004, 07:15 PM

Finally after 3 years of planning, buying, changing, starting over, etc I get to do some assembly. The frame is just in epoxy primer as I plan on building the truck and the dissassembling for paint/powdercoat. This first picture is of the Hot Rods to Hell kit. The only thing missing is the adjustable panhard rod (and rearend).

This picture shows the adjustable spring set up.

Here's a frame shot, hopefully it doesn't come out too dark.

Here's a picture of the Fatman Stage III front end.

Let's try this

68LSS1 · 10-10-2004, 07:19 PM

http://revxtreme.com/gallery/data/50..._front-med.jpg

68LSS1 · 10-10-2004, 07:20 PM

68LSS1 · 10-10-2004, 07:23 PM

68LSS1 · 10-10-2004, 07:27 PM

The pictures are here and I would like to thank the recently opened performance shop Rev Xtreme for the space.

**FRENCHBLUE72** · 10-10-2004, 09:00 PM

That is a sweet set-up... Are you gonna run the adjustin screw's for the rear up through the bed or just leave em adjustable from underneath???

68LSS1 · 10-10-2004, 09:17 PM

They are adjustable from the top. There is a hole in the top frame C rail that allows me to put a socket on the top of the shaft which is a hex. It's a stepside and it will be mini tubbed so I'm hoping it will come out to where I can reach behind the wheel and adjust it. As soon as I can get some temporary wheels to fit the 8.8 in the rear and clear the 13" Baer rotors up front I'll get the bed on to start measuring for that and see how wide of wheel I will be able to run.

gonebad2 · 10-10-2004, 09:45 PM

Just wanted to say thanks for the upclose pics of the frontend. I'm picking up my '72 Blazer next weekend. I'm making it into a 2wd and that's the frontend end I'm going with except I'm gonna use airbags front and rear with a 4 link in the rear. Your project looks great. Keep us posted with pics....

PTS Kustoms · 10-10-2004, 11:05 PM

LSS1 - How do you like the fatman front and is there any pros or cons?

PTS

**lock** · 10-11-2004, 12:17 AM

Nice looking front end! Coil over and rack an pinion. That will be sweet. That come with special motor mounts?

68LSS1 · 10-11-2004, 01:18 AM

gonebad2-thanks. I would like the next project to be a Blazer or Suburban.
PTS Customs-How the HTH kit going? I can't think of any cons except for maybe price but that's not really a con as I think it's worth what they charge. Pro's are dropping some weight, having a power rack, 5" drop without dropped spindles, adjustable ride height with the coil overs, the handling of unequal length a-arms and can't forget about the "bling" factor. I think going with the Fatman kit which utilizes the Mustang II suspension and the Hot Rods to Hell truck arm improvement kit is the all out best suspension that is possible on our trucks in a kit form. Yes there are better suspensions but none that are avaible or that would require major fabrication. And when I'm done I'd be willing to put my truck up against the 'Vette suspensioned Jim Meyers frames (sp?).
lock-special motor mounts are not needed. You will need to drill a couple holes in the crossmember but the original bracket that mounted between the original crossmember and to the top of the frame can be used. You will have to make a 1/4" shim to put under the bottom of the bracket on the crossmember side is all. I want to slide my LS1 as back as far as possible so I'm just going to use one of those universal SBC engine mount crossmembers.

NPilot1975 · 10-11-2004, 02:16 AM

I am thinking about going with the Fatman Frontend. Did you add the Baer brakes on your own or is that an option through Fatman? If you laid your frame on the ground, would the crossmember touch the ground before the bottom of the frame? I want to lay my truck out on air, thinking the stage IV kit, don't know that I am going to lay frame but want to have the ability if I decide to. What add-on components did you get on the kit you ordered, looks like power rack and ?. I just want to get an idea of the final cost of the kit, I know the website says $2445. Thanx for the info.

I don't know if you already got motor mounts, but here are a sweet set:
http://performanceonline.com/store/c...7112af4ff9bdb2

Trifelynn · 10-11-2004, 02:25 AM

68LSS1....looks great. would you recommend the same set-up for a '71 blazer? What exactly did you do? I also am going to run bags, and I have looked at a lot of front ends....after doing all this...what would you recommend...

thanks

:edit: I haven't been following your progress, so sorry for the dumb question...but what year/make/model is the vehicle you are doing?

68LSS1 · 10-11-2004, 02:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trifelynn

68LSS1....looks great. would you recommend the same set-up for a '71 blazer? What exactly did you do? I also am going to run bags, and I have looked at a lot of front ends....after doing all this...what would you recommend...

thanks

:edit: I haven't been following your progress, so sorry for the dumb question...but what year/make/model is the vehicle you are doing?

I'd need more info about the intended use of the Blazer before I could answer that. For a daily driver with a stock to mild (cam, headers, heads, carb) engine I think the stock trailing arm suspension is fine. Actually if the truck is never intended to hit the strip or a "highly spirited run" through some cones or road course the stock set up is fine. However if either of those are a possibility then the HTH improvement kit is a very good option. I don't think it would work well with air bags though. To me it sounds like you have a daily driver that you'd like to bag and be comfortable to drive. Then I would recommend going with a front suspension that will give you at the minimum a power rack and steering unit and some drop to start. The Fatman unit does that with some additional features also. IMHO gearboxes can't and will not ever be able to be compared to rack's. I had converted my truck (the one in my sig is the one in work by the way) already to power steering/brakes and 5 lug all the way around but my 7K pound Expedition still felt better and smoother with a rack than my truck.

NPilot1975 · 10-11-2004, 10:48 AM

How much did you give for the brakes?

68LSS1 · 10-11-2004, 02:35 AM

The only add ons that I got was the polished a-arms and polished coil overs and the rack like you said. I am not sure about what brake options are available through Fatman but I think they have some or a "brake delete" option. I got my Baer brakes on my own, any kit for a Mustang II will work. I measured the angle of the crossmember and frame and it was within a tenth of a degree with my digital protractor and then I measured from the bottom of the frame to the ground and the bottom of the crossmember to the ground. From the frame to the floor I had 14 1/2" and from the crossmember I had 15 3/4" so the frame would definately hit before the crossmember if I laid it on the floor. Give Ed @ Mothertruckers a call about the Fatman kit as he is a authorized dealer and had installed quite a few of these (of course I found this out after the fact).

68LSS1 · 10-11-2004, 11:06 AM

I did get a deal on them. I got them from a guy who is building a awesome pro-touring Nova. He had a design change and went with a different front suspension. I think I paid 7-800. See the legendary John Parson and his Nova at his website II Much Fabrication.

SCOTI · 10-11-2004, 04:57 PM

Parsons ChevyII is awesome.

How about a pic from the front of the crossmember. I'm curious of what the measurement is from the bottom of the front crossmember to the bottom of the frame rail to compare w/a stock crossmembers location.

68LSS1 · 10-11-2004, 05:35 PM

Are you asking from the bottom of the front crossmember to the ground and from the bottom of the frame to the ground? I measured that in a above post. It was 14 1/2" from the frame (section that cab sits on) and 15 3/4" from the front crossmember with the frame and crossmember within one tenth of a degree of being level (or whatever the garage floor is). So the Fatman unit sits up by about 1" if that is what your asking. If not run it by me again, either way I'll try and get you a picture tonught.

SCOTI · 10-11-2004, 06:55 PM

Yeah, I figured my request was confusing. I'm looking to see how far below the bottom of the frame rail the FatMans crossmember sits. So the bottom of the frame rail where the crossmember bolts up to the lowest part of the MII crossmember. I would guess-i-mate about 6" or so. It also looks (and IIRC), that no part of the steering Rack hangs below the bottom of the crossmember. Is that correct?

Anyway.... cool progress pics. Thanks for sharing.

GMCGRANDS · 10-11-2004, 08:28 PM

Looking good 68LSS1. Keep the pictures coming as you get along.

68LSS1 · 10-11-2004, 08:41 PM

SCOTI, I added 4 pictures, take a look and see if it's what you're after. If not let me know. The pictures are here. Yes the bottom of the frame where the Fatman crossmember bolts up is the lowest part. Even the lower a-arm should be at this height when properly adjusted. GMCGRANDS, thanks I definately will.

SCOTI · 10-11-2004, 09:05 PM

Yep it looks to be between 6-7". The pic #001 was about where I was looking for the measurement (if you get the chance next time your out in the garage wrenching that would be cool).

68LSS1 · 10-11-2004, 09:19 PM

OK, I get where you want the measurement. Dang SCOTI , you're good. It was right at 6 1/2".

SCOTI · 10-11-2004, 10:44 PM

Awe shucks . . ...

Thanks again for that info. I can't wait to see more pics. It's also nice to see someone from here posting over on the pro-touring site. If I wasn't determined to finish my truck I would be knee deep in something classic that handles on rails.

10-10-2004, 07:15 PM	#1
68LSS1 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Tampa Posts: 1,191	A couple Fatman and HTH pictures Finally after 3 years of planning, buying, changing, starting over, etc I get to do some assembly. The frame is just in epoxy primer as I plan on building the truck and the dissassembling for paint/powdercoat. This first picture is of the Hot Rods to Hell kit. The only thing missing is the adjustable panhard rod (and rearend). This picture shows the adjustable spring set up. Here's a frame shot, hopefully it doesn't come out too dark. Here's a picture of the Fatman Stage III front end. Let's try this __________________ '68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc Last edited by 68LSS1; 10-10-2004 at 07:17 PM.

10-10-2004, 07:19 PM	#2
68LSS1 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Tampa Posts: 1,191	http://revxtreme.com/gallery/data/50..._front-med.jpg __________________ '68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc

10-10-2004, 07:20 PM	#3
68LSS1 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Tampa Posts: 1,191	__________________ '68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc

10-10-2004, 07:23 PM	#4
68LSS1 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Tampa Posts: 1,191	__________________ '68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc

10-10-2004, 07:27 PM	#5
68LSS1 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Tampa Posts: 1,191	The pictures are here and I would like to thank the recently opened performance shop Rev Xtreme for the space. __________________ '68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc

10-10-2004, 09:00 PM	#6
FRENCHBLUE72 PROJECT 7DEUCE Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: GRANTS PASS OR Posts: 21,608	That is a sweet set-up... Are you gonna run the adjustin screw's for the rear up through the bed or just leave em adjustable from underneath??? __________________ GO BIG GREEN GO DUCKS MEMBER #6377 72 k-5 daily driver 6'' lift 35'' 350-350-205 slowly getting rust free. Project "7DEUCE" check out my build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=267665 Tim Powell..R.I.P EastSideLowlife..... R.I.P..

10-10-2004, 09:17 PM	#7
68LSS1 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Tampa Posts: 1,191	They are adjustable from the top. There is a hole in the top frame C rail that allows me to put a socket on the top of the shaft which is a hex. It's a stepside and it will be mini tubbed so I'm hoping it will come out to where I can reach behind the wheel and adjust it. As soon as I can get some temporary wheels to fit the 8.8 in the rear and clear the 13" Baer rotors up front I'll get the bed on to start measuring for that and see how wide of wheel I will be able to run. __________________ '68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc

10-10-2004, 09:45 PM	#8
gonebad2 Merciless Butcher Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: CC Nevada Posts: 1,447	Just wanted to say thanks for the upclose pics of the frontend. I'm picking up my '72 Blazer next weekend. I'm making it into a 2wd and that's the frontend end I'm going with except I'm gonna use airbags front and rear with a 4 link in the rear. Your project looks great. Keep us posted with pics.... __________________ Your Bought And Sold....I Got Your Soul!

10-10-2004, 11:05 PM	#9
PTS Kustoms Registered User Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Roswell, N.M. Posts: 210	LSS1 - How do you like the fatman front and is there any pros or cons? PTS

10-11-2004, 12:17 AM	#10
lock Insert funny comment. Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Concord NC Posts: 621	Nice looking front end! Coil over and rack an pinion. That will be sweet. That come with special motor mounts? __________________ ------------ - Mark -My Build Thread... -68 C10, LT1 - Undergoing Frame off resto -86 IROC-Z T72 turbo 355, M6 -70 Camaro http://www.iroc-ss.com

10-11-2004, 01:18 AM	#11
68LSS1 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Tampa Posts: 1,191	gonebad2-thanks. I would like the next project to be a Blazer or Suburban. PTS Customs-How the HTH kit going? I can't think of any cons except for maybe price but that's not really a con as I think it's worth what they charge. Pro's are dropping some weight, having a power rack, 5" drop without dropped spindles, adjustable ride height with the coil overs, the handling of unequal length a-arms and can't forget about the "bling" factor. I think going with the Fatman kit which utilizes the Mustang II suspension and the Hot Rods to Hell truck arm improvement kit is the all out best suspension that is possible on our trucks in a kit form. Yes there are better suspensions but none that are avaible or that would require major fabrication. And when I'm done I'd be willing to put my truck up against the 'Vette suspensioned Jim Meyers frames (sp?). lock-special motor mounts are not needed. You will need to drill a couple holes in the crossmember but the original bracket that mounted between the original crossmember and to the top of the frame can be used. You will have to make a 1/4" shim to put under the bottom of the bracket on the crossmember side is all. I want to slide my LS1 as back as far as possible so I'm just going to use one of those universal SBC engine mount crossmembers. __________________ '68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc

10-11-2004, 02:16 AM	#12
NPilot1975 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Plymouth, MA Posts: 891	I am thinking about going with the Fatman Frontend. Did you add the Baer brakes on your own or is that an option through Fatman? If you laid your frame on the ground, would the crossmember touch the ground before the bottom of the frame? I want to lay my truck out on air, thinking the stage IV kit, don't know that I am going to lay frame but want to have the ability if I decide to. What add-on components did you get on the kit you ordered, looks like power rack and ?. I just want to get an idea of the final cost of the kit, I know the website says $2445. Thanx for the info. I don't know if you already got motor mounts, but here are a sweet set: http://performanceonline.com/store/c...7112af4ff9bdb2 __________________ 1972 Blazer body...need to get a thread started for the rest of the story Last edited by NPilot1975; 10-11-2004 at 02:30 AM.

10-11-2004, 02:25 AM	#13
Trifelynn Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: Williston, North Dakota Posts: 469	68LSS1....looks great. would you recommend the same set-up for a '71 blazer? What exactly did you do? I also am going to run bags, and I have looked at a lot of front ends....after doing all this...what would you recommend... thanks :edit: I haven't been following your progress, so sorry for the dumb question...but what year/make/model is the vehicle you are doing? __________________ Always looking for a 2wd blazer Last edited by Trifelynn; 10-11-2004 at 02:29 AM.

10-11-2004, 10:48 AM	#15
NPilot1975 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Plymouth, MA Posts: 891	How much did you give for the brakes? __________________ 1972 Blazer body...need to get a thread started for the rest of the story

10-11-2004, 02:35 AM	#16
68LSS1 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Tampa Posts: 1,191	The only add ons that I got was the polished a-arms and polished coil overs and the rack like you said. I am not sure about what brake options are available through Fatman but I think they have some or a "brake delete" option. I got my Baer brakes on my own, any kit for a Mustang II will work. I measured the angle of the crossmember and frame and it was within a tenth of a degree with my digital protractor and then I measured from the bottom of the frame to the ground and the bottom of the crossmember to the ground. From the frame to the floor I had 14 1/2" and from the crossmember I had 15 3/4" so the frame would definately hit before the crossmember if I laid it on the floor. Give Ed @ Mothertruckers a call about the Fatman kit as he is a authorized dealer and had installed quite a few of these (of course I found this out after the fact). __________________ '68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc



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10-11-2004, 11:06 AM	#17
68LSS1 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Tampa Posts: 1,191	I did get a deal on them. I got them from a guy who is building a awesome pro-touring Nova. He had a design change and went with a different front suspension. I think I paid 7-800. See the legendary John Parson and his Nova at his website II Much Fabrication. __________________ '68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc

10-11-2004, 04:57 PM	#18
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 21,982	Parsons ChevyII is awesome. How about a pic from the front of the crossmember. I'm curious of what the measurement is from the bottom of the front crossmember to the bottom of the frame rail to compare w/a stock crossmembers location. __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

10-11-2004, 05:35 PM	#19
68LSS1 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Tampa Posts: 1,191	Are you asking from the bottom of the front crossmember to the ground and from the bottom of the frame to the ground? I measured that in a above post. It was 14 1/2" from the frame (section that cab sits on) and 15 3/4" from the front crossmember with the frame and crossmember within one tenth of a degree of being level (or whatever the garage floor is). So the Fatman unit sits up by about 1" if that is what your asking. If not run it by me again, either way I'll try and get you a picture tonught. __________________ '68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc

10-11-2004, 06:55 PM	#20
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 21,982	Yeah, I figured my request was confusing. I'm looking to see how far below the bottom of the frame rail the FatMans crossmember sits. So the bottom of the frame rail where the crossmember bolts up to the lowest part of the MII crossmember. I would guess-i-mate about 6" or so. It also looks (and IIRC), that no part of the steering Rack hangs below the bottom of the crossmember. Is that correct? Anyway.... cool progress pics. Thanks for sharing. __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

10-11-2004, 08:28 PM	#21
GMCGRANDS Registered User Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Franklin , N.C. USA Posts: 105	Looking good 68LSS1. Keep the pictures coming as you get along. __________________ Mark 72'GMC Sierra Grande 2wd SWB, Fatman stageV IFS, 6.0 liter LQ4 Gen 3 and 4L80E under construction 05' GMC Sierra Denali LQ9

10-11-2004, 08:41 PM	#22
68LSS1 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Tampa Posts: 1,191	SCOTI, I added 4 pictures, take a look and see if it's what you're after. If not let me know. The pictures are here. Yes the bottom of the frame where the Fatman crossmember bolts up is the lowest part. Even the lower a-arm should be at this height when properly adjusted. GMCGRANDS, thanks I definately will. __________________ '68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc

10-11-2004, 09:05 PM	#23
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 21,982	Yep it looks to be between 6-7". The pic #001 was about where I was looking for the measurement (if you get the chance next time your out in the garage wrenching that would be cool). __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

10-11-2004, 09:19 PM	#24
68LSS1 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Tampa Posts: 1,191	OK, I get where you want the measurement. Dang SCOTI , you're good. It was right at 6 1/2". __________________ '68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc

10-11-2004, 10:44 PM	#25
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 21,982	Awe shucks . . ... Thanks again for that info. I can't wait to see more pics. It's also nice to see someone from here posting over on the pro-touring site. If I wasn't determined to finish my truck I would be knee deep in something classic that handles on rails. __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.* Last edited by SCOTI; 10-11-2004 at 10:47 PM.

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