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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Tampa
Posts: 1,191
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A couple Fatman and HTH pictures
Finally after 3 years of planning, buying, changing, starting over, etc I get to do some assembly. The frame is just in epoxy primer as I plan on building the truck and the dissassembling for paint/powdercoat. This first picture is of the Hot Rods to Hell kit. The only thing missing is the adjustable panhard rod (and rearend).
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'68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc Last edited by 68LSS1; 10-10-2004 at 07:17 PM. |
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#2 |
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'68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc |
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#3 |
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'68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc |
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#4 |
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'68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc |
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#5 |
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Tampa
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The pictures are here and I would like to thank the recently opened performance shop Rev Xtreme for the space.
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'68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc |
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#6 |
PROJECT 7DEUCE
![]() Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: GRANTS PASS OR
Posts: 21,608
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That is a sweet set-up... Are you gonna run the adjustin screw's for the rear up through the bed or just leave em adjustable from underneath???
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GO BIG GREEN ![]() MEMBER #6377 72 k-5 daily driver 6'' lift 35'' 350-350-205 slowly getting rust free. Project "7DEUCE" check out my build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=267665 Tim Powell..R.I.P EastSideLowlife..... R.I.P.. |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Tampa
Posts: 1,191
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They are adjustable from the top. There is a hole in the top frame C rail that allows me to put a socket on the top of the shaft which is a hex. It's a stepside and it will be mini tubbed so I'm hoping it will come out to where I can reach behind the wheel and adjust it. As soon as I can get some temporary wheels to fit the 8.8 in the rear and clear the 13" Baer rotors up front I'll get the bed on to start measuring for that and see how wide of wheel I will be able to run.
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'68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc |
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#8 |
Merciless Butcher
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: CC Nevada
Posts: 1,447
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Just wanted to say thanks for the upclose pics of the frontend. I'm picking up my '72 Blazer next weekend. I'm making it into a 2wd and that's the frontend end I'm going with except I'm gonna use airbags front and rear with a 4 link in the rear. Your project looks great. Keep us posted with pics....
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Your Bought And Sold....I Got Your Soul! |
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Roswell, N.M.
Posts: 210
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LSS1 - How do you like the fatman front and is there any pros or cons?
PTS |
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#10 |
Insert funny comment.
![]() Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Concord NC
Posts: 621
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Nice looking front end! Coil over and rack an pinion. That will be sweet. That come with special motor mounts?
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------------ - Mark -My Build Thread... -68 C10, LT1 - Undergoing Frame off resto -86 IROC-Z T72 turbo 355, M6 -70 Camaro http://www.iroc-ss.com |
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#11 |
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Tampa
Posts: 1,191
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gonebad2-thanks. I would like the next project to be a Blazer or Suburban.
PTS Customs-How the HTH kit going? I can't think of any cons except for maybe price but that's not really a con as I think it's worth what they charge. Pro's are dropping some weight, having a power rack, 5" drop without dropped spindles, adjustable ride height with the coil overs, the handling of unequal length a-arms and can't forget about the "bling" factor. I think going with the Fatman kit which utilizes the Mustang II suspension and the Hot Rods to Hell truck arm improvement kit is the all out best suspension that is possible on our trucks in a kit form. Yes there are better suspensions but none that are avaible or that would require major fabrication. And when I'm done I'd be willing to put my truck up against the 'Vette suspensioned Jim Meyers frames (sp?). lock-special motor mounts are not needed. You will need to drill a couple holes in the crossmember but the original bracket that mounted between the original crossmember and to the top of the frame can be used. You will have to make a 1/4" shim to put under the bottom of the bracket on the crossmember side is all. I want to slide my LS1 as back as far as possible so I'm just going to use one of those universal SBC engine mount crossmembers.
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'68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc |
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Plymouth, MA
Posts: 891
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I am thinking about going with the Fatman Frontend. Did you add the Baer brakes on your own or is that an option through Fatman? If you laid your frame on the ground, would the crossmember touch the ground before the bottom of the frame? I want to lay my truck out on air, thinking the stage IV kit, don't know that I am going to lay frame but want to have the ability if I decide to. What add-on components did you get on the kit you ordered, looks like power rack and ?. I just want to get an idea of the final cost of the kit, I know the website says $2445. Thanx for the info.
I don't know if you already got motor mounts, but here are a sweet set: http://performanceonline.com/store/c...7112af4ff9bdb2
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1972 Blazer body...need to get a thread started for the rest of the story Last edited by NPilot1975; 10-11-2004 at 02:30 AM. |
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#13 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Williston, North Dakota
Posts: 469
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68LSS1....looks great. would you recommend the same set-up for a '71 blazer? What exactly did you do? I also am going to run bags, and I have looked at a lot of front ends....after doing all this...what would you recommend...
thanks :edit: I haven't been following your progress, so sorry for the dumb question...but what year/make/model is the vehicle you are doing?
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Always looking for a 2wd blazer Last edited by Trifelynn; 10-11-2004 at 02:29 AM. |
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#14 | |
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Tampa
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Quote:
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'68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc |
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Plymouth, MA
Posts: 891
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How much did you give for the brakes?
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1972 Blazer body...need to get a thread started for the rest of the story |
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#16 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Tampa
Posts: 1,191
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The only add ons that I got was the polished a-arms and polished coil overs and the rack like you said. I am not sure about what brake options are available through Fatman but I think they have some or a "brake delete" option. I got my Baer brakes on my own, any kit for a Mustang II will work. I measured the angle of the crossmember and frame and it was within a tenth of a degree with my digital protractor and then I measured from the bottom of the frame to the ground and the bottom of the crossmember to the ground. From the frame to the floor I had 14 1/2" and from the crossmember I had 15 3/4" so the frame would definately hit before the crossmember if I laid it on the floor. Give Ed @ Mothertruckers a call about the Fatman kit as he is a authorized dealer and had installed quite a few of these (of course I found this out after the fact).
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'68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc |
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#17 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Tampa
Posts: 1,191
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I did get a deal on them. I got them from a guy who is building a awesome pro-touring Nova. He had a design change and went with a different front suspension. I think I paid 7-800. See the legendary John Parson and his Nova at his website II Much Fabrication.
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'68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc |
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#18 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,982
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Parsons ChevyII is awesome.
How about a pic from the front of the crossmember. I'm curious of what the measurement is from the bottom of the front crossmember to the bottom of the frame rail to compare w/a stock crossmembers location.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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#19 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Tampa
Posts: 1,191
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Are you asking from the bottom of the front crossmember to the ground and from the bottom of the frame to the ground? I measured that in a above post. It was 14 1/2" from the frame (section that cab sits on) and 15 3/4" from the front crossmember with the frame and crossmember within one tenth of a degree of being level (or whatever the garage floor is). So the Fatman unit sits up by about 1" if that is what your asking. If not run it by me again, either way I'll try and get you a picture tonught.
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'68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc |
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#20 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,982
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Yeah, I figured my request was confusing. I'm looking to see how far below the bottom of the frame rail the FatMans crossmember sits. So the bottom of the frame rail where the crossmember bolts up to the lowest part of the MII crossmember. I would guess-i-mate about 6" or so. It also looks (and IIRC), that no part of the steering Rack hangs below the bottom of the crossmember. Is that correct?
Anyway.... cool progress pics. Thanks for sharing.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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#21 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Franklin , N.C. USA
Posts: 105
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Looking good 68LSS1. Keep the pictures coming as you get along.
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Mark 72'GMC Sierra Grande 2wd SWB, Fatman stageV IFS, 6.0 liter LQ4 Gen 3 and 4L80E under construction 05' GMC Sierra Denali LQ9 |
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#22 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Tampa
Posts: 1,191
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SCOTI, I added 4 pictures, take a look and see if it's what you're after. If not let me know. The pictures are here. Yes the bottom of the frame where the Fatman crossmember bolts up is the lowest part. Even the lower a-arm should be at this height when properly adjusted. GMCGRANDS, thanks I definately will.
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'68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc |
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#23 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,982
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Yep it looks to be between 6-7". The pic #001 was about where I was looking for the measurement (if you get the chance next time your out in the garage wrenching that would be cool).
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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#24 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Tampa
Posts: 1,191
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OK, I get where you want the measurement. Dang SCOTI , you're good. It was right at 6 1/2".
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'68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc |
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#25 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,982
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Awe shucks . . ...
Thanks again for that info. I can't wait to see more pics. It's also nice to see someone from here posting over on the pro-touring site. If I wasn't determined to finish my truck I would be knee deep in something classic that handles on rails.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. Last edited by SCOTI; 10-11-2004 at 10:47 PM. |
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