got me a t-5!

[66redw/white]

bought me a t-5 last night! truck should be movin down the road by this time next month. with an overdrive. gonna take alittle bit as i also need to find a new rear end. but im still stoked up about it!

my wife just gave me a weird look when i told her so i figured id let yall know.

[nachodog2]

Best upgrade ever!
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[jocko]

COOL! I think you'll be very happy with it!

[66redw/white]

thanks to you ill actually be able to hook it up to the rest of the truck!

[jocko]

Ha! I'm happy to be back home - if I can get my brakes done, maybe I can then do more than a t5 test drive! I'm itchin for a cross country. But I"ll actually drive around the block about 20 times to make sure everything is workin right... Sing out if any questions pop up, lotsa folks on here have done this swap and helped me a lot when I did mine.

[66redw/white]

wildo!

[oldtrux]

yes jocko,i read your thread on the t5 swap,excellent info!thanks for that,it will certainly help a lot of us on here!by the way how much did you have to shorten your driveshaft?

[jocko]

Originally Posted by oldtrux

yes jocko,i read your thread on the t5 swap,excellent info!thanks for that,it will certainly help a lot of us on here!by the way how much did you have to shorten your driveshaft?

Oldtrux,
Sorry I missed your d/s question from earlier - ended up taking about 8" out of it just to give you a rough estimate - but you'll need to measure your truck exactly to have the shop cut it correctly. Make sure you measure with weight-on-wheels, not on jacks. Most shops want the measurement from the vertical face of the rear of the tailshaft housing (i.e. the rear seal) to the centerline of the rear u-joint (i.e. in most cases, if you have the driveshaft out - it's the surface of the half-cradle where the u-joints rest).

[Scot_Douglas]

My T5 is holding up nicely (for now) behind my 350.

0.72 OD and the 3.27 rear end makes for 1700 rpm @ 60.

[66redw/white]

scot i didnt know you had a t-5. i musta missed that in the build somewhere. i guess it will be just fine behind my stock 250!

i wish i knew what my t-5s overdrive was. the tag with the info that actually matters is completely gone. it caint be any worse that 1.1!

[jocko]

66rw, u can measure your o/d by placing the shifter in 5th and estimating the amount of tailshaft rotation relative to one full rotation of the i/p shaft. o/p shaft should move around 3/4 of a rotation if it's a .76 ratio or if it's kinda between 3/4's of a rotation and 1 full rotation - it's probably the .86 5th gear ratio. Those were the 2 common o/d ratios in S10s - but others were available in other (non-S10) transmissions. I was lucky with a a .73 o/d.

[66redw/white]

thats good info jocko! i must say thou. i ended up locating the good tag. i have 1352 192. here in a second ill look it up to see what she has.

and i know how yall are. everything is better with pics!!

[Scot_Douglas]

1352-192 GM 1989 S-Truck 2.8L V6 Only R 3.70 3.97 2.34 1.48 1.00 0.79

[66redw/white]

i was just about to say that.

thanks scott!!

[rogue64gmc]

will my manual trans linkage out of my 64 gmc work on a t5 or does it need modifications?

some one mentioned a t5 swap thread can someone pose a link to it?

[jocko]

t5 has no linkage associated with it at all - it has an internal rail shifter (so just the stick pokes thru the floor) - so if you do the swap, all your old linkage goes in the closet, on ebay, or in the circular file - it's kinda nice! Here's the mentioned thread - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=482069

66redwhite - that's some future hot rodder ya got there! He looks as excited as we all sound!

[rogue64gmc]

Originally Posted by jocko

t5 has no linkage associated with it at all - it has an internal rail shifter (so just the stick pokes thru the floor) - so if you do the swap, all your old linkage goes in the closet, on ebay, or in the circular file - it's kinda nice! Here's the mentioned thread - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=482069

66redwhite - that's some future hot rodder ya got there! He looks as excited as we all sound!

sorry i meant the clutch linkage, not the actual shift linkage

[66redw/white]

yeah he loves trucks just as much if not more than i do. hes always tellin me that the lower the truck is the faster it gets. lol. he caint wait to jam gears of his own. and much like his dad, he has decided on an s10 for his first truck. well most days...

[66redw/white]

you use your original bell houseing. so the clutch linkage does not change

[Scot_Douglas]

Unless you want it to.



In hindsight, going with some cheap block-hugger headers or rams horns would've let me use the stock linkage AND kept me away from some steering issues. Sometimes you have to know when to give up on a set of $5 stainless headers.

[jocko]

[QUOTE=Scot_Douglas;4903808]Unless you want it to.

What kind of setup is that Scot? interesting.

[Scot_Douglas]

Originally Posted by jocko

What kind of setup is that Scot? interesting.

Homemade bracket, shortened clutch arm and a hydraulic pull slave cylinder.

[rogue64gmc]

ya, i don't have my stock bell housing, i bought the truck engine less,

it does have the clutch pedal,

so if i want to use a camaro t5 bell housing am i just better off using a hydraulic clutch setup?

[jocko]

truck bell housings are a dime a dozen - I'd buy on of them from a junkyard. If your truck has a clutch pedal - and you mentioned above your truck had stock clutch linkage (sorry, thought you meant shifter linkage earlier!) s0 I'd just grab a bell housing and go. You'll want to make sure it has an opening of about 4.686", which most do (i.e. don't buy the one that is larger than 5", then you'll need an additional adapter).

That's the cheapest approach - and you have to have a bell housing anyway (i.e. you bought it engine-less, so assuming it was bell-less also?) This way, you can use stock pedal, clutch linkage, (bell), etc etc. I'd look for a bell that has the access panel on bottom, not a solid aluminum (scatter-shield-like) one to help make the install easier.

Hy clutches are NOT cheap, and they are (in my experience) finicky to bleed, etc. But then again, i don't even like bleeding brakes.... Also, will require a reservoir somewhere and that can interfere with the brake master, etc. Not always. Lots of folks have done the hyd clutch though, so I wouldn't hesitate if you really want it. Also note - I'm talkin about a hyd RELEASE bearing - there is also a "slave" cylinder set-up that came on early 60's trucks that simply has a hyd cylinder hooked to a slave pusher that then hydraulically pushes on the clutch release bearing lever - i.e. has a mechanical release bearing. Personally, unless it came original on the truck, I go with mechanical linkage all the way. If you have a 66, then it would have had all mech.

[jocko]

wow - that's cool. Is it an up and running system or still just in the build phase? I've never seen such a thing! Probably easily adjustable. Nice! Looks like it makes lotsa room for those headers!