easiest eay to 500 rwhp Ls?

[68shortwide]

Plan on buying a 6.0, my question is what's the easiest and or cheapest way to attain 500-550 rwhp and make it dependable, streetable, somethin to fly down the highway with. Not lookin for a strip killer, just somethin that has a$$ behind it and to maybe do road course or autocross with. Thanks guys

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by 68shortwide

Plan on buying a 6.0, my question is what's the easiest and or cheapest way to attain 500-550 rwhp and make it dependable, streetable, somethin to fly down the highway with. Not lookin for a strip killer, just somethin that has a$$ behind it and to maybe do road course or autocross with. Thanks guys

Keep on smokin' that rope....

[beetle1960]

Originally Posted by Fitz

Keep on smokin' that rope....

Please share...

[68shortwide]

While I have yalls attention, I might as well ask. If go the 6.0 and l92 heads what are my options as far as intake and front runner kits? Mast,fast,Holley,edelbrock, billet specialties, march, etc?

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by beetle1960

Please share...

Why share? I don't do drugs and I do not make a practice fooling myself, either. There is a huge difference between horsepower developed at the flywheel and how much of that actually reaches the rear wheels. Losses usually range from 10-12 percent. If the tires are inadequate to support the horsepower applied by the drive train a chassis dyno will read only the "grip" applied to the dyno wheel unless, the dyno drum is bolted to the rear axle hubs. That is why I looked for a shop with an engine test stand to measure horsepower at the flywheel.

Most of the foolish children who throw around "RWHP" as a measure are totally ignorant of what a chassis dyno does, what it's measurement errors are, what it takes to generate those numbers and how to build an engine that does so successfully because they are just armchair mechanics who read magazines instead of spending the time turning wrenches.

Armchair tuners with their little riceburner racers. That's why I stuffed an LS motor into a Miata. It gave me a window to put my cartoon in!

[CUSTOM/10]

Fitz

Cool miata...... My buddy just put together a LS3 miata kit, 435 hp to the wheels, what a hand full !!! ( Screaming miata kit I believe )

Gary

[RNowak69]

Stock 4.8 or 5.3 will be all you need. Haven't done it to my truck yet, but running a stock '99 5.3 with a ebay gt45 and it put my all steel, full interior '69 camaro in the 10s. I mean stock cam and all. I usually only spin it to 6100 rpm or so.

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by CUSTOM/10

Fitz

Cool miata...... My buddy just put together a LS3 miata kit, 435 hp to the wheels, what a hand full !!! ( Screaming miata kit I believe )

Gary

Mash the gas at 70 in 4th and spin the rear tires!

[Lees68GMC]

Fitz is Right, I did the LS2 Miata thang too, years before there were any kits. I did a one-off design / build from the ground up LS normally aspirated HP is easy although it can get spendy. Here's my LS2 Miata work Fitz, was only 450 HP sold it and do LS truck now for fun> It's OK to be a Older Miata Hater, the guys that drive them with LS motors are more than satisfied spanking Dodges, Camaros, Mustangs and various other comparable Slow Elk cars. I've been a GM lover my whole life, even in a light foreign body. There were No Mazda badges, emblems, nothing except the Red Bow-ties on the quarter panels on my car.

[Turbo1dr]

It's also important to gear the rear end right when making a engine change. I had a 3600lb car run slower when I swapped in 3.73 gears. I originally had 3.42's. All this while keeping the rpm's below 5500. Its common for people to to *over-gear* a high-torque engine and never realize they can actually go faster with a taller gear.

I also trapped 123mph in the quarter with 3.27 gears in a 3500lb car. Again, all this was done without going over 5500 rpms. Turbo's and super chargers don't need steep gears because of the tremendous low to mid-range torque they produce.

One more thing, you don't need 3.73 or 4.11's in a light weight car with a high-torque engine. I've proven some *old timers* that think *bigger is better or more is better* when actually, it's not.

[no1udknow]

Maybe go this route.....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p0as...7A1C2&index=47

apparently it's a cts-v lsa engine, and the owner claims that the only thing he did to it was change the pulley on the supercharger, polish the supercharger, and install a spacer.....seems pretty easy for 800hp at the engine, 635hp at the wheels, and 650ftlbs of torque.... I watch all of this guys shows, there are quite a few ls builds on them and they seem to all make uncanny hp... including the 1200hp nova.

[sprint_9]

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=500+hp+6.0+LS+build

[slowcpe]

Originally Posted by 68shortwide

cheapest... dependable...somethin to fly

The old saying goes "pick two".

"easiest" will be turbo. That's the route I'm planning on going but for now its "cam only" and a goal of 350-370 to the wheels which will still make for a fun driving truck.

[Lee H]

What's your budget? The combo you desire is about 15k, give or take a few thousand, by the time you buy all the goodies to get there.

[Heavymetl]

Junkyard 4.8

Chinese GT45 turbo

Low boost, don't even need meth injection.

Flipped truck manifolds

Air to Air intercooler

500hp to the tire and hang on!

Making it N/A will take some more cubes without going full out race engine and it'll have nasty street manners. Otherwise a stock-cammed 4.8/5.3 on boost will do it all day long with ease.

[68shortwide]

Pretty much it comes down to turbo or supercharger..take the cheap part out of the equation, I'm an idiot for sayin that lol. Mainly what'll be easy to maintain,run, and it'll perform n not break. Not familiar to turbos other than the basic mechanics of how they operate. Which is the cheaper option, turbo or supercharger....thanks guys..

[no1udknow]

Originally Posted by Heavymetl

Junkyard 4.8

Chinese GT45 turbo

Low boost, don't even need meth injection.

Flipped truck manifolds

Air to Air intercooler

500hp to the tire and hang on!

Making it N/A will take some more cubes without going full out race engine and it'll have nasty street manners. Otherwise a stock-cammed 4.8/5.3 on boost will do it all day long with ease.

Yup, ive been using this link a lot today... read and enjoy :-)
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/h...g_bang_theory/

[hugger6933]

I think I remember that article. They flogged a 150k motor or something like it and when they broke it found out it was a 4.8 instead of 5.3, isn't that the one? You know I've had two tons of these trucks. Both to build and sell and to junk out. The difference in the 4.8 and the 5.3 is hardly noticeable with the exception of the low end grunt if your pulling like a car on a trailer. Not saying a 4.8 won't do it it will just not as easily as the 5.3, but with less fuel. The 4.8 consistently will knock down better economy but I think a lot of that is in the pcm programming. I have a 5.3 short that has a power program that knocks down 26 on the interstate at 75mph. I sold a extra cab Z71 5.3 power programed truck it get 22 mpg on the interstate as well but I've had 4.8's that will do mid twenty's they are rare but I said all that to say this the 4.8 is cheaper on gas than the 5.3 even though the 5.3 pulls the truck easier. also I bought a couple of turbos on e-bay a year or two ago new for like $550 to put on a 6.0. so they are out there cheap too. Jim

[Exgie]

well, yeah, that is a pretty tall order considering you will need somewhere in the neighborhood of 625 hp at the crank.

fairly built motor with a charger of some sort, but there is no cheap in this formula.

[68GenIII]

Heads, cam, exhaust, tune.

[68shortwide]

The more dollars I hear I keep thinking I can settle for 400 rhp ill go all out on a motor after school when I actually have a steady job lol

[slowcpe]

Originally Posted by 68shortwide

The more dollars I hear I keep thinking I can settle for 400 rhp ill go all out on a motor after school when I actually have a steady job lol

This is essentially what I'm doing. Started to add everything up for my build and it'll climb real quick. In fact the necessary valvetrain upgrade for a high-lift cam will run you $1000 plus. The big items aren't bad, but the little things can kill you.

350-400 rwhp is still quite a bit of power. In college I was putting that much power to the ground in my mustang (with the help of nitrous) and it was a blast to drive.

[68shortwide]

I thought about a small nos shot but I'm not big on relying on a bottle to have power, hence the turbo/supercherger predicament. Both supply continuous power and both have an awesome sound. Now to research and see what fits my build and budget better. I could care less how it looks for a year if it performs good. Dads a bodymen/painter for a living so its not like I have to pay for labor for bodywork and paint. Thanks guys. I've brought my expectations down to earth now lol

[bpatrol]

6.0 a good cam with ls3 type heads and a good tune with headers will get you into the 425-450 range depending on cam. an improved intake like a ls3 or fast also.
and that's at the wheels
bpatrol

[class01]

6.2l with heads and cam might be close