Pics of custom made frame mounted battery box - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Deuce · 10-31-2005, 01:33 AM

Had to move(and wanted to hide) the battery from the front to make room for the custom cold air intake for the TPI 383.

Deuce · 10-31-2005, 01:35 AM

The way I held the battery down is drill a couple 1/4" hole in the mounting flange on the base of the battery and bolted it down. No cumbersome hold down. Built the bracket out of 2x2 angle and a little 2" flatbar.

4x4Poet · 10-31-2005, 03:38 AM

Simple, yet ingenious!

Did you make the battery tray? Just for kicks, have you computed how large of battery cable you'll need to run? BTW, I think the Optima 925s are a little less tempermental than the 800u version. Anecdotally speaking, of course. Great starting power. I had a hard starter and I couldn't kill the 925. Awesome!

Deuce · 10-31-2005, 01:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4x4Poet

Simple, yet ingenious!

Did you make the battery tray? Just for kicks, have you computed how large of battery cable you'll need to run? BTW, I think the Optima 925s are a little less tempermental than the 800u version. Anecdotally speaking, of course. Great starting power. I had a hard starter and I couldn't kill the 925. Awesome!

Yep built it myself. I was just going to run some 1/2" welding cable for the battery to starter cable

And a short piece from the neg terminal to the frame.

djracer · 10-31-2005, 01:55 PM

I would reccomend a minimum of 2ga! Larger can't hurt!

Deuce · 10-31-2005, 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by djracer

I would reccomend a minimum of 2ga! Larger can't hurt!

What would 1/2 welding cable be gauge wise??

djracer · 10-31-2005, 03:58 PM

if 1/2 is the size of the copper you should be fine but it should have a ga. written on it. the smaller the number the bigger the wire! I would mount a f@rd Solenoid on the firewall and put a jumper on the 2 starter terminals it makes starter swaps so much easier! You just undo 1 wire from the solenoid on the firewall and drop the starter with the wire still on it! It also gives you a good place to get constant power from to run everthing else! I wire all race cars this way!

72MARIO · 10-31-2005, 07:07 PM

Jee that looks just like mine. Good design.

Deuce · 10-31-2005, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 72MARIO

Jee that looks just like mine. Good design.

Is yours a home made jobby too?? Looks good!! The engine compartment must look much nicer??

72MARIO · 10-31-2005, 07:09 PM

1 gauge welding cable here.

muddpile · 10-31-2005, 07:18 PM

Looks great man! Should really clean up the engine compartment with the battery and cables out of there.

Deuce · 10-31-2005, 08:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by muddpile

Looks great man! Should really clean up the engine compartment with the battery and cables out of there.

Thats the idea. Make the TPI the focal point

Get your carb and intake yet??

muddpile · 11-01-2005, 12:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Deuce

Thats the idea. Make the TPI the focal point

Get your carb and intake yet??

You betcha! It got to work around 11 this morning. I wasn't doing anything anyways (slow day) so it gave me a chance to tear into the box and have a look. That ceramic coating looks awesome on the intake! Should be easy to keep clean. I can't wait to start tearing my truck apart this winter so I can start putting some of my goodies on.

Deuce · 11-01-2005, 01:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by muddpile

You betcha! It got to work around 11 this morning. I wasn't doing anything anyways (slow day) so it gave me a chance to tear into the box and have a look. That ceramic coating looks awesome on the intake! Should be easy to keep clean. I can't wait to start tearing my truck apart this winter so I can start putting some of my goodies on.

Glad your happy with it. Hope this wakes up the beast!!!

It was a pleasure doing business with you!!!!

Russell · 10-31-2005, 10:34 PM

Thats a good idea... My cab has a big hump where the saddle tank used to sit, I wonder if I should build something to put my battery under the cab instead of having it in the engine compartment. My battery is designed for a big diesel tractor and barely fits as it is (hangs out on both sides of the battery tray), and I'd probally half the length of my battery cable relocating it like that...

Be nice, cause then I could run dual batteries under there too, I've wanted to run dual batteries for a while, but had no place to put a second one. How do you get the battery outta there later on?

Deuce · 10-31-2005, 10:36 PM

Some 2x2 angle and a little imagination is all it takes.

72MARIO · 11-01-2005, 12:00 AM

I had a 4' chunk of angle. And no money for a stock tray and I had lots of time. I only had one chance making the tray. I got it perfect. The Optomia battery sure hit the wallet hard though. I built the stone shield to protect the Battery. It's epoxyed just like the rest of the parts.

The under hood looks awesome not many people actually say "where is you battery" the odd guy does. Here is a pic.

Deuce · 11-01-2005, 01:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 72MARIO

I had a 4' chunk of angle. And no money for a stock tray and I had lots of time. I only had one chance making the tray. I got it perfect. The Optomia battery sure hit the wallet hard though. I built the stone shield to protect the Battery. It's epoxyed just like the rest of the parts.

The under hood looks awesome not many people actually say "where is you battery" the odd guy does. Here is a pic.

Mario. If my truck turns out 1/2 as cool as yours I'd be really happy!!! I love your truck.

72MARIO · 11-01-2005, 12:03 AM

To remove the battery I just lay on my back and lift it out. drop it on my tummy and wiggle out.

Russell · 11-01-2005, 12:43 AM

Alright, the more I look at this the more I like the idea.

As it stands right now, I have my battery on the driver's side of the truck, I run the positive wire from the front corner, down to the frame, follow the front crossmember, then follow the frame, and finally to the solenoid on the starter. I'd need to re-route a few wires I have straight off the battery post right now (with fusible links of course), but otherwise I'd be probally cutting my positive battery cable length in half building an under-cab battery box like that. My basic plan is to build it out of angle iron, with a peice of pressure treated plywood for a bottom to prevent acid corrosion, and find some sort of sheetmetal to make a front and back side, along with a removeable front cover.

What are you guys using for hold downs at the moment?

Deuce · 11-01-2005, 01:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Russell

What are you guys using for hold downs at the moment?

I drilled 2 holes in the flange of the battery(theres lots of room between the cells) and bolted it to the tray so it looks like the battery is just sitting there with no hold downs

It is mounted VERY solid.

72MARIO · 11-01-2005, 08:30 AM

Thanks.

I have been really lucky to have my dads shop avaible to work in every night. Also not having to pay rent has a big part in how well it turned out.

I like the Fuel injection mabye should have thought a little more about that Idea I got scared with the wiring so the idea got tossed up quick. Fuel cost are killing me

Your truck will turn out really nice by the looks of it so far. Just stay out of the house paint in home depot. It's oky to use a 90 from a sewage system that's a really good Idea actually but, house paint wont cut it when it comes to paint time

10-31-2005, 01:33 AM	#1
Deuce Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Calgary, Alberta,Canada Posts: 1,595	Pics of custom made frame mounted battery box Had to move(and wanted to hide) the battery from the front to make room for the custom cold air intake for the TPI 383. __________________ I know what your thinking.......I have ESPN. Sometimes it's easier to do things the hard way. Fesler Built 1968 Chevy C10....Must resist the urge to mess with it!!

10-31-2005, 01:35 AM	#2
Deuce Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Calgary, Alberta,Canada Posts: 1,595	Re: Pics of custom made frame mounted battery box The way I held the battery down is drill a couple 1/4" hole in the mounting flange on the base of the battery and bolted it down. No cumbersome hold down. Built the bracket out of 2x2 angle and a little 2" flatbar. __________________ I know what your thinking.......I have ESPN. Sometimes it's easier to do things the hard way. Fesler Built 1968 Chevy C10....Must resist the urge to mess with it!!

10-31-2005, 03:38 AM	#3
4x4Poet Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: "Under Montana skies." Posts: 1,836	Simple, yet ingenious! Did you make the battery tray? Just for kicks, have you computed how large of battery cable you'll need to run? BTW, I think the Optima 925s are a little less tempermental than the 800u version. Anecdotally speaking, of course. Great starting power. I had a hard starter and I couldn't kill the 925. Awesome! __________________ '71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup.

10-31-2005, 01:55 PM	#5
djracer Registered User Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Wetumpka, Al, U.S. Posts: 8,891	Re: Pics of custom made frame mounted battery box I would reccomend a minimum of 2ga! Larger can't hurt! __________________ Kevin Special Thanks to All who have helped on the TRUCK! My Pass Time Show http://s129.photobucket.com/albums/p...Chapter1-0.mp4 So Far my best Times are: Motor only: 6.44 1/8 @ 104.13 10.39 1/4 @ 125.83 Nitrous Times: 5.785 1/8 @ 118.65 with a 1.336 60ft 9.168 1/4 @ 142.58 with a 250 shot dead out of the hole!

10-31-2005, 03:58 PM	#7
djracer Registered User Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Wetumpka, Al, U.S. Posts: 8,891	Re: Pics of custom made frame mounted battery box if 1/2 is the size of the copper you should be fine but it should have a ga. written on it. the smaller the number the bigger the wire! I would mount a f@rd Solenoid on the firewall and put a jumper on the 2 starter terminals it makes starter swaps so much easier! You just undo 1 wire from the solenoid on the firewall and drop the starter with the wire still on it! It also gives you a good place to get constant power from to run everthing else! I wire all race cars this way! __________________ Kevin Special Thanks to All who have helped on the TRUCK! My Pass Time Show http://s129.photobucket.com/albums/p...Chapter1-0.mp4 So Far my best Times are: Motor only: 6.44 1/8 @ 104.13 10.39 1/4 @ 125.83 Nitrous Times: 5.785 1/8 @ 118.65 with a 1.336 60ft 9.168 1/4 @ 142.58 with a 250 shot dead out of the hole!

10-31-2005, 07:07 PM	#8
72MARIO Registered User Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Huntsville Ontario Canada Posts: 4,052	Re: Pics of custom made frame mounted battery box Jee that looks just like mine. Good design. Attached Images __________________ 1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017 1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck 1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck" 2005 TAHOE DD

10-31-2005, 07:09 PM	#10
72MARIO Registered User Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Huntsville Ontario Canada Posts: 4,052	Re: Pics of custom made frame mounted battery box 1 gauge welding cable here. __________________ 1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017 1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck 1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck" 2005 TAHOE DD

10-31-2005, 07:18 PM	#11
muddpile Registered User Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Saskatchewan, Canada Posts: 1,371	Re: Pics of custom made frame mounted battery box Looks great man! Should really clean up the engine compartment with the battery and cables out of there. __________________ 1964 Chevy Short Fleet: Tornado 1972 Chevy C10: Fast Orange Secondaries Wide Open

10-31-2005, 10:34 PM	#15
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	Re: Pics of custom made frame mounted battery box Thats a good idea... My cab has a big hump where the saddle tank used to sit, I wonder if I should build something to put my battery under the cab instead of having it in the engine compartment. My battery is designed for a big diesel tractor and barely fits as it is (hangs out on both sides of the battery tray), and I'd probally half the length of my battery cable relocating it like that... Be nice, cause then I could run dual batteries under there too, I've wanted to run dual batteries for a while, but had no place to put a second one. How do you get the battery outta there later on? __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap) Last edited by Russell; 10-31-2005 at 10:36 PM.

10-31-2005, 10:36 PM	#16
Deuce Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Calgary, Alberta,Canada Posts: 1,595	Re: Pics of custom made frame mounted battery box Some 2x2 angle and a little imagination is all it takes. __________________ I know what your thinking.......I have ESPN. Sometimes it's easier to do things the hard way. Fesler Built 1968 Chevy C10....Must resist the urge to mess with it!!

11-01-2005, 12:00 AM	#17
72MARIO Registered User Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Huntsville Ontario Canada Posts: 4,052	Re: Pics of custom made frame mounted battery box I had a 4' chunk of angle. And no money for a stock tray and I had lots of time. I only had one chance making the tray. I got it perfect. The Optomia battery sure hit the wallet hard though. I built the stone shield to protect the Battery. It's epoxyed just like the rest of the parts. The under hood looks awesome not many people actually say "where is you battery" the odd guy does. Here is a pic. Attached Images __________________ 1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017 1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck 1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck" 2005 TAHOE DD

11-01-2005, 12:03 AM	#19
72MARIO Registered User Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Huntsville Ontario Canada Posts: 4,052	Re: Pics of custom made frame mounted battery box To remove the battery I just lay on my back and lift it out. drop it on my tummy and wiggle out. __________________ 1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017 1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck 1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck" 2005 TAHOE DD

11-01-2005, 12:43 AM	#20
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	Re: Pics of custom made frame mounted battery box Alright, the more I look at this the more I like the idea. As it stands right now, I have my battery on the driver's side of the truck, I run the positive wire from the front corner, down to the frame, follow the front crossmember, then follow the frame, and finally to the solenoid on the starter. I'd need to re-route a few wires I have straight off the battery post right now (with fusible links of course), but otherwise I'd be probally cutting my positive battery cable length in half building an under-cab battery box like that. My basic plan is to build it out of angle iron, with a peice of pressure treated plywood for a bottom to prevent acid corrosion, and find some sort of sheetmetal to make a front and back side, along with a removeable front cover. What are you guys using for hold downs at the moment? __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)

11-01-2005, 08:30 AM	#22
72MARIO Registered User Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Huntsville Ontario Canada Posts: 4,052	Re: Pics of custom made frame mounted battery box Thanks. I have been really lucky to have my dads shop avaible to work in every night. Also not having to pay rent has a big part in how well it turned out. I like the Fuel injection mabye should have thought a little more about that Idea I got scared with the wiring so the idea got tossed up quick. Fuel cost are killing me Your truck will turn out really nice by the looks of it so far. Just stay out of the house paint in home depot. It's oky to use a 90 from a sewage system that's a really good Idea actually but, house paint wont cut it when it comes to paint time __________________ 1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017 1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck 1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck" 2005 TAHOE DD



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.