The never ending K5 Build LS Swap

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

It was almost 2 years ago when I originally finished my Blazer and since then I've logged about 4K miles. I decided to make some changes (which btw is an understatement), and I figured I would start a new thread. Some of you are familiar with my first build and for those who are not, it's called "Attempting my first build"

I've spent the last 3 months planning this out and here's what I'm doing.

1. LS Swap 6.0 (LQ9)

2. Atlas Suspension & Fox Shocks: I'm going to be using their custom 52" progressive front springs and rears with the DIY4x B52 First Gen Hanger Kit https://diy4x.com/product.php?produc...cat=250&page=1

The front springs are 10" longer than stock and this should help soften the ride.

3. Front Swaybar & cross member from a square body.

4. Dakota Digital Gauges

5. Custom Center Console

6. Custom Sound system

7. Updated fuse panel, a relay panel, and switches to control the relays

8. Vintage Air setup

9. Smooth Firewall using Vannatta fabrications 5 piece firewall kit

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Pulled the 427 SBC out. This was actually taken a couple of months ago.

[72gmguy]

Why the change so soon after you "completed" your build? The truck seemed just right the way it was.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by 72gmguy

Why the change so soon after you "completed" your build? The truck seemed just right the way it was.

The engine I had originally was from West Coast Engines. It was poorly assembled and was basically junk. I then had a local engine builder build me a 427 SBC and at that same time, I converted to EFI using the Holley Sniper and added a new tank with a built-in fuel pump.

The 427 was a bad A** but we got a little in over our heads on the build and it ended up being way too much motor for the Blazer and most importantly for what I intended to use it for. It wasn't very street-friendly and the valve train was high maintenance, especially when using a solid roller setup.

Going the LS route I will have a reliable engine that makes good power and I can drive it long distance or as a daily if I want. I plan to control the engine and trans with the Holley Terminator Max X that was recently released a few months ago.

With the additional electronics (fuel pump, dual fans, seat warmers, e-Locker, ECU, Sound System, etc.) I needed to update my wiring. I was using original style harness from M&H Electric.

I also had a little accident in the garage. A cabinet fell from the wall and smacked right into my quarter panel, so back to the body shop it went. I'll refrain from posting a pic because it would make your stomach sick!

Since it's at the body shop now and with the engine out, I figured I could clean up the firewall. I originally wish I did this the first time around when it was painted and that was to have all the holes filled and a smooth firewall.

[Ptjsk]

It sure looks good the way it is, but obvious that you want to change a few things. I'm sure it will come out great.

Pat

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by Ptjsk

It sure looks good the way it is, but obvious that you want to change a few things. I'm sure it will come out great.

Pat

What part of Northen California?

[Ptjsk]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

What part of Northen California?

We're up near the town of Placerville. Just about half way between Sacramento and South Lake Tahoe.

How about you?

Pat

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by Ptjsk

We're up near the town of Placerville. Just about half way between Sacramento and South Lake Tahoe.

How about you?

Pat

San Jose

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

About a month ago I tackled the suspension and front sway bar.

The difference between the Atlas 52" springs and stock.


I used an air chisel to remove the rivets.


used a 2" hole saw to make to mount the new rear shackle which moved back about 4-5".



I believe the new shackle mount locations moved the axle either fwd or back about 1/8-1/4" I cant remember which way. The front hanger has 4 predrilled holes and depending on which one you use determines the axle movement from stock location.

[tinydb84]

I forgot about this build cool to see it completed. I don't think I could have torn into a freshly completed truck!

[jaros44sr]

I'll watch. enjoyed part a, nice to work on something all clean and shiny! I'd buy your short block, if you weren't on the wrong coast

[C.I.Blazer]

Thinking about a swap as well so I am definitely interested. Thanks for keeping us posted.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by SeventyOne

Nice - glad you're getting this build (3.0) documented

Not gonna lie. I was feeling lazy about doing it But, I owe it to the members of this board for all the help this site has brought me.

Originally Posted by tinydb84

I forgot about this build cool to see it completed. I don't think I could have torn into a freshly completed truck!

Part of the reason it's back at the body shop

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

I'll watch. enjoyed part a, nice to work on something all clean and shiny! I'd buy your short block, if you weren't on the wrong coast

Thanks Jaro. It was a built bottom end with all quality forged components. The engine just belonged in a Camaro or Chevelle.

Originally Posted by C.I.Blazer

Thinking about a swap as well so I am definitely interested. Thanks for keeping us posted.

Feel free to ask any particular questions and I'd be more than happy to help.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

For the LS engine mount, I ended up going with Dirty Dingo. I did extensive research on this subject and after talking directly to Pacific Fabrication and Dirty Dingo I ended up with the latter.

The reason I went with the DD is that they guaranteed me that my stock height leaf springs wouldn't be an issue with the cross member hitting the top of the pumpkin on the differential. (We Shall See!) The only thing I didn't like about the DD is I am going to have to make new brake lines and re-route. The Pacific Fab has cut-outs or notches if you will, in their version and I would have gone with theirs if it didn't require at least a 2" lift.

The install was pretty easy and they provide you with detailed instructions that are easy to follow.


I had to bend my existing line to allow the cross member to fit. It's binding on the frame so a new custom line will go in it's place.

[CG]

So are you keeping the same tire/wheel set up? I think I asked in the past about your lift, its perfect. Are the new springs going to change your stance at all?

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by CG

So are you keeping the same tire/wheel set up? I think I asked in the past about your lift, its perfect. Are the new springs going to change your stance at all?

The springs should be the same lift. After putting the springs on I couldn't tell a difference. Yes, same wheels/tires. Everything will be the same on the exterior/interior. The only mod I will make to the interior is the custom center console which I plan to make out of using PVC foamboard. It will but up against the original console and extend all the way through to the firewall. This is where I plan to put my 6.5" speakers and a Stereo Receiver. It will also hold my switch panel and a couple of cup holders.

This is the first mock-up I have designed so far. It's a work in progress

[C.I.Blazer]

Maybe I missed it in you first build thread, but what transmission was in your truck? Are you just mating to that or upgrading to a newer unit to match the LQ9? Will you have to move any of the drivetrain assembly forward or back?

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by C.I.Blazer

Maybe I missed it in you first build thread, but what transmission was in your truck? Are you just mating to that or upgrading to a newer unit to match the LQ9? Will you have to move any of the drivetrain assembly forward or back?

Originally was the th350 and then when I swapped motors for the 427 sbc I also swapped the the350 for a 4L80e.

I kept the engine in the same place and moved the Tcase back 2.5". I had to have new driveshafts made and I used the Lokar shift linkage to make the proper bends for it to fit.

[C.I.Blazer]

Mike, saw in your previous thread where you used a Boyd's tank from AZ performance but had to do some modification on the filler neck. Can you elaborate? Looking to order one but want to know if I need to do something custom to make it work. Thanks!

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by IronCanine

Mike...my boy...all I can say is wow. And sign me up. Roads...where you're going, you don't need roads.

Thanks Brad. It's definitely been a long road to get to where I am at. I can see the finish line..

Originally Posted by C.I.Blazer

Mike, saw in your previous thread where you used a Boyd's tank from AZ performance but had to do some modification on the filler neck. Can you elaborate? Looking to order one but want to know if I need to do something custom to make it work. Thanks!

The only thing I had to do was use a reducer from the filler neck to the tank because the diameter of the tank neck was smaller. Other than that it bolted right in. The quality of the tank is top-notch.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Okay. Got a nice a little update. The Blazer comes home from body shop tomorrow and I also received my engine back. In the meantime, I've been spending much of my time perfecting my cerakote skills. If you're not familiar with Cerakote it's pretty cool stuff. It's a type of ceramic coating that is very popular with gun enthusiasts. It lays down very flat and thin (like 1mm) and they offer two kinds of curing.

I've been using their air cure (C-series coating), mainly because I don't have an oven to bake this stuff and it also has a higher temperature rating compared to the H series.

These are the colors I've been using (Black Velvet, Burnt Bronze, Stop Light Red)



Every part under the hood has been painted one of these colors and I'm really happy with how it turned out.



All the AN Fittings also received the cerakote special!



More parts


Holley EFI Intake in Stop Light Red

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

I offered my engine builder to come in and cerakote the block and heads but he insisted on doing it himself. Well, my OCD kicked in and I sanding everything down as far as I could get So reshot the block and heads. I think he should stick to building motors and leave the painting to me lol:

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

He did a great job on porting & polishing the 317 heads for the LQ9 Block.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

The accessory drive system is from Drive Junky. It's a really nice setup. Of all the ones I was considering I liked this one the most because of how it keeps everything compact. The AC is mounted on the lower left passenger side. The kit includes a fully tig welder Jones Racing Power steering pump. They also customized the setting for the PS pump to work well with my Hydroboost setup. They actually come anodized black but I couldn't help myself to spray it in the black velvet to match everything else.

[C.I.Blazer]

WOW! that looks amazing. I was starting to think about how to paint my TC and motor and Cerakote is a great idea. I did an old shotgun in it once and it has been incredibly durable. What all did you did you have done to the LQ9? I found an LQ4 with a 4L65E that I am hoping to try a swap with.

Another question on your fuel system. Do you have any details anywhere on how you plumbed your tank? I assume you used the 340 pump that came with it and added an inline filter regulator? Did you keep all the original vent lines, charcoal canister, and vent lines in that connect at the back of the truck?

Your threads have been really great to help me learn although I am just trying to get mine driveable and will not be a restoration by any means. Thanks for posting!