Help! No start/electrical

[hounddogs!]

Headed to work this AM and got absolutely nothing when I went to start the truck. I notice that the temp gauge pegs when the ignition is in Run/Start.

Since they're in the same loom, my guess is that starter wiring is shorting to the block through the temp sender.

Before I spend the morning on a damp driveway, am I on the right track?

Thanks, guys.

[Longhorn Man]

did you check to see if it needed a jump?
try wiggling the wires on the back side of the ignition switch?

The temp guage works on ground, not on positive, and they aren't in the same leg of the harness, and oposing sides of the engine.

[cdowns]

neutral safty switch

[hounddogs!]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

did you check to see if it needed a jump?

It cranked strong once, then went to nothing. No dragging, and it wasn't bitterly cold this AM.
The green wire from the temp sender runs into a loom that goes across the back of the motor. That's what makes me think the 12ppl to the starter and the 20dg from the sender are crossed. The starter has its own line to the battery, so the fusible link doesn't come into play, right?

No effect after wiggling wires under the dash. Cursing didn't help, either.
[QUOTE neutral safety switch
[/QUOTE]

Granny 4-spd.

When the temp gauge pegs, isn't it getting voltage from an ignition hot source?

[Longhorn Man]

everything is covered under the fuseable link, except the large battery cable. (assuming it is wired properly, and there is nothing run straight to the battery, or the starter end of the positive cable)
I still think you are probably thinking too hard on this. Start with the basics. Check connections, check the charge, check the back of the switch, check the wores on the starter, check for power on the purple wire on the starter...
Plus, like I mentioned, the fact that the green wire to the sensor is basicly a ground, and the purple wire is positive (when key is in the crank position) there woulda been a lotta smoke, or a popped fuseable link.

Do you have power to ANYTHING now?

[hounddogs!]

LHM: back to basics. Thanks for the reminder.

No electrical functions--
Starter dead
Lights dead
Wipers dead
Brake lights dead
Hazards dead

This tells me fusible link or fuse. More investigation when it's light. Thanks.

[Longhorn Man]

don't overlook loose connections... or dirty connections.

[Longhorn Man]

Since you have no headlights, skip the ignition switch idea all together.
Go out there, pop the hood, and see if you can wiggle the battery cables on the battery... try to rotate them on the posts.
Then see if you have power.

[dave2953]

I'm thinking neutral safety switch too. Mine did exactly the same thing and it took me forever to figure out what was wrong.

*EDIT* I guess if that's what it was his headlights would work, huh? Nevermind

[hounddogs!]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

Since you have no headlights, skip the ignition switch idea all together.
Go out there, pop the hood, and see if you can wiggle the battery cables on the battery... try to rotate them on the posts.
Then see if you have power.

Did check that one this morning, both terminals are tight.

[Longhorn Man]

dave... it's also a 4 speed... no NSS

[ALS72CHEVY]

i had a problem where the positive wire from the battery had worked lose from the starter solenoid and it would act as if the batter was dead

[hounddogs!]

OK gents, more information......

**Cleaned both battery terminals, they're tight.
**From the terminal block on the pass fender, I have continuity back to the firewall connector along the 12 ga red wire.
**That same spade in the connector shows voltage to ground
**All fuses are good

Now for the bad stuff inside the cab. The temp needle moves when you step on the brake, turn the ignition to start/run or pull the headlight switch. Santa's bringing me a new printed circuit for the cluster. Maybe that'll fix all this. For now, I've got flurries and a wind chill of 5 below. I'm going in to watch basketball.