Fix and Sale 72 GMC 3/4 ton 4x4 K2500

[landarts]

I was surfing the local Craigslist about a year ago and found this 72 GMC 3/4 ton 4x4 listed for $1500 and made arrangements to go see it. After arriving on the location and talking to the owner he explained that he was given the truck for a payment owed by the previous owner. The previous owner had passed away and the wife signed over the truck as payment. He stated the only reason he wanted it was for the 400 big block motor, he want to pull it for a hot rod he was building and then he was going to sell with out motor. He got the truck to his property and a friend offered him a 454 motor which he took and put truck up for sale.

I purchased the truck for $1100 with the intentions of fixing and then sale it. Here are a few pictures of what I am starting with.

[landarts]

Here a few picts of me towing it to my house with my C20 and a few interior shots.

[landarts]

So the first thing I like to do is make a list of the obvious items that need to be fixed to sale the truck. We all know that a truck that can drive down the road, stop and functions properly and safely is worth more. I have an excel sheet that I use to get a better project scope and cost.

Here are the priority items:
1. Get it running if the motor is good and all system that support it are working properly - if not then remove and put in a small block 350 that I have that is a runner
2. Transmission - make sure it is shifting properly and all fluids are flushed and filter replaced
3. Check all brakes and system for anything that needs to be replaced, fluids, pads, disc, rotors, master cylinder, lines, lights and lenses...etc
4. Check that the seatbelts are in good working order and are not faulty - if so then replace with 3-point system, pretty easy deal for safety sake
5. Tires - make sure that tires are in good shape and ready for the road

Here are the items that are secondary:
6. Interior condition
7. Rust repair that could be a deal breaker
8. Paint and Trim

[DWilbur]

For that price it's a hell of a deal. in California it would sell for around $5,000.00. Nice project to start with.

[landarts]

Thanks DWilbur I thought it would be well worth the effort and to save another and get it back out on the road.

[landarts]

So after getting the truck home I decided to get as much dirt and dust off of the truck so that it would make it a little easier to work on. Power washed the entire truck on the outside and underneath. Decided I would start at the top of the list number 1. Get it running if the motor is good and all system that support it are working properly

Checked fluids and proceeded to hook up a battery, when I was making the last connection the truck was trying to start on its own. OK figured either I have a stuck solenoid or a ignition problem. Got down underneath and tapped on the starter a few times with hammer, went back on top and tried connecting the battery again and this time it was not trying to start on its own. I then poured a little gas down the carb and turned the key, it started right up no problem. I let it run until the gas I poured down the carb was gone. I also noticed when I poured the gas down the carb that the carb gaskets must of been dried out because I could see gas leaking from the side and figured I would need to rebuild it. Off to Napa Auto for a few items.

The pictures of how it looks now and one with the carb that was removed and rebuilt.

[landarts]

After rebuilding the carburetor and reinstalling I needed to replace any rubber fuel lines. They were hard and brittle, replaced short section from metal feed line to carburetor. Replaced the ones under the truck on the electric fuel pump and the plastic fuel filter. Now to address the sticking solenoid on the starter. I removed the starter and removed and replaced the solenoid from Napa auto. Reinstalled the starter and nothing. OK now I am starting think I am going backwards on the project. Played around with a few things and still nothing. Starting to think it possible I got a bad solenoid out of the box. Instead of wasting time i removed the starter and headed back to Napa auto, had it tested and yes the solenoid was bad out of the box. They also tested to see if the starter itself was any good, testing was conclusive that there were problems with the starter also. Napa refunded the $20 for the solenoid and charged me an additional $30 for a new starter.

After getting home and installing the starter, tried to start the truck again and nothing not even a click. Well now I felt like I was really going backwards, and starting to get frustrated. So its time to take a time out here and get some lunch. During lunch I was thinking of what it could be, what have I done to make things change or what have I seen that might be a possible reason I am not getting power to anything.

Went back out and started at the battery, the cables were side mount and one of the cables bolts was having a hard time making a solid connection so i had another battery that is top post style. Changed out the battery and installed two new battery cables that I had that were also top mount. Removed all wires from junction and clean them up. Noticed one of the wires that carries power from the junction on the fender back across the radiator support was bare in some spots and corroded. Pull all of those wires out and inspected, cut back the power wire and replace with the same size wire and reattached. Turned the key and everything worked and the truck started right up. Getting closer to wrapping #1 on the list (1.Get it running if the motor is good and all system that support it are working properly).

[landarts]

Moving on to the next few items so if there are items that need to be ordered, I can get them coming to the house. I proceeded to remove the seat, carpet, tank, heater controls from the dash. This will allow me to repair the rocker panels and the inner/rocker outer floor pieces. Repair the heater controls and reinstall. For the carpet is only sun baked so I will redye with color-bond. Here are a few of the items that I will be replacing or is missing.

Interior items:
-missing shifter knob
-heater control lever broke and switch is bad
-door sills need to be replaced
-need 2 arm rest
-need 2 window handles
-gas tank sending unit mesh screen
-dash pad is toast
-seat needs a new cover

Exterior rust items:
-2 rocker panels
-2 inner rocker/outer floor
-2 front support
-passenger bottom outside lower door skin

Photos show what the interior garbage factor was and the seat belts that were under the seat. Power washed the interior and scrub down with purple power, Did the same with the seat belts, still have some mold spots I have not been able to get out yet.

[landarts]

Items finished over weekend:
-Got the tanked cleaned out, reinstalled the sending unit and electrical for the gauge -Stripped and repainted the metal ring that holds the rubber boot around the 4x4 stick shift.
-Removed old dash pad and cleaned so it is ready for new pad when it arrives
-Cleaned and tore apart the heater control panel so I can replace center lever ( found NOS on ebay for $14) saved old knob so know I will not have to take face plate off to repair
-Pre cut small floor board patch to do when rocker and inner rocker/outer floor parts arrive
-Replaced all rubber fuel lines and added new gas filters so I can catch any debris and not clogged up newly rebuilt carb
-Removed some old wiring on the firewall and under dash that went to trailer brakes and other CB assesories

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice score on that! A K20 with a BBC for $1100 is a steal anywhere I'm sure.

[El Dorado Jim]

Nice truck, you stole it for that price!!!! maybe you have a 454 in there, since the K20's didn't come with big blocks from the factory? the guy you got it from assumed it is a 400 or 402 ....

[landarts]

It might be a 454 I have not taken the time to look at the stamped numbers on the block yet and run them. I all I know is that when I start it up it sure sounds good. When I was under the truck the other day installing the new fuel lines on the electric fuel pump I noticed that the dual exhaust looked like brand new. Well hopefully my order will show up today for all the repair panels and various things that I am replacing otherwise I will probably move on to something that I need to do that are not requiring parts from this particular order. If not I will probably move on to the brakes, lights and cooling system and make sure that everything is in top order.

[landarts]

Found out that the radiator has a leak in the top neck on the right. Going to attempt to repair with soldering. I have a little over 20 years experience with soldering copper, but never brass. So I will thoroughly clean and prep area, use flux and a good solder. If all else fails and I can not fix I replace with a Rock Auto with a VISTA-PRO 433369 radiator for $111.79 link here. I did call around to local shops minimum would be $75 so for the difference I will just get a new one if needed.

Will start on the inner rocker/outer floor and rocker replacements this weekend. Install the repaired heater controller, replaced the middle lever with one I found on ebay.

Running total so far for the truck expenses:
-purchase price $1100
-starter $59
-rag joint $23
-parts ordered $402
--inner rocker/outer floor x2, rockers x2, sill plates x2, lower door skin, front cab support x2, fuel sender, shifter knob, armrest x2, dash pad, heater control switch, rear light kit

TOTAL $1584

[landarts]

Not much got done on the truck last weekend. Decided to fully clean the garage out so I could move the truck inside before winter hits. Last year we had record snow and temps, they are predicting the same this winter. Got most of it done before I injured my back again, fighting old injury of 3 slipped disc in lower back. On a positive note I sold my 71 Blazer and 3 motors that I was holding onto for future projects. Now I have some room to start on rust repair inside the heated garage.

[DWilbur]

That's a bummer about your back. I had surgery in 2009 lower back. Could you stop by and clean my garage next week. Ha Ha

[El Dorado Jim]

hard to get anything done when your back hurts,I find that drinking beer helps!!!!

[landarts]

Wanting to blast and powder coat existing rims and bumpers here real soon. Can anyone advise where to get some hub caps that will fit a 3/4 ton 4x4.

[DWilbur]

If your looking for shinny new try GMC Paul might have some or LMC. Craig's List.

[Greg58]

I like this truck!!

Greg

[landarts]

Well after a few weeks off do to back issues I am back at it slowly. First order of business was to get the truck out of the driveway finally. I knew it was going to be a tight fight and would need to be able to move it to a angled position in garage to utilize the work space. Knowing that my back is not doing well I thought I would try out a set of the Wheel Dollies from Harbor Freight, they came in a set of 2 for $54.99 and rated at 1500lbs per tire. Bought two sets and used the 20% discount coupon. Got them home and tried them out. They defiantly do work, I was able to move the truck around by myself without any issues. So I guess they will be keepers.

Now that I have the truck in the heated garage and have the room to do the rust repair, that will be the next item on the list. I will be replacing the inner rocker/outer floor and rockers on both sides. Also a small patch panel for the bottom of the passenger door.

Here is the link to this set at Harbor Freight for the wheel dollies.

Running total so far for the truck expenses:
-purchase price $1100
-starter $59
-rag joint $23
-parts ordered $402
--inner rocker/outer floor x2, rockers x2, sill plates x2, lower door skin, front cab support x2, fuel sender, shifter knob, armrest x2, dash pad, heater control switch, rear light kit
-Wheel dollies (tool purchase will not add to total since I will keep) $97

TOTAL $1584

[landarts]

Started on drivers side for removal of rocker panel first, then on to the inner rocker/outer floor section. Used 4.5" grinder, drill with two different size bits for drilling out spot weld where needed and an air hammer with a sharp chisel bit. Went pretty quick since there was not much left of the rocker.

Running total so far for the truck expenses:
-purchase price $1100
-starter $59
-rag joint $23
-parts ordered $402
--inner rocker/outer floor x2, rockers x2, sill plates x2, lower door skin, front cab support x2, fuel sender, shifter knob, armrest x2, dash pad, heater control switch, rear light kit
-Wheel dollies (tool purchase will not add to total since I will keep) $97
-new 3-way valve for aux. tank with fittings $28
-pvc valve and oil fill cap $16

TOTAL $1628

[landarts]

Here are a few more picts of the B-pillar and front mount. After inspecting where the rust is on the B-pillar mount and the front cab support mount I will repair the B-pillar by cutting out the bad and welding in patches. Doing the same with the cab support mount. I will cut beck until I get inch plus of good metal on the cab support and replace, the rust hole is really not that large and the rest of it is flawless.

So for the driver side the following rust repair will go as follows:

-cut out B-pillar rust spots, treat metal inside and repair with new metal welded from template
-cut out small rust hole in bottom of the cab mount, treat metal inside and weld in patch made from template
-test fit and cut existing floor for replacement inner rocker/outer floor part
-test fit outer rocker and adjust as needed with door back on
-weld everything up, grind, seam seal and prime
-shoot repair area with new single stage Copper poly 522

Running total so far for the truck expenses:
-purchase price $1100
-starter $59
-rag joint $23
-parts ordered $402
--inner rocker/outer floor x2, rockers x2, sill plates x2, lower door skin, front cab support x2, fuel sender, shifter knob, armrest x2, dash pad, heater control switch, rear light kit
-Wheel dollies (tool purchase will not add to total since I will keep) $97
-new 3-way valve for aux. tank with fittings $28
-pvc valve and oil fill cap $16

TOTAL $1628

[landarts]

Today I was in the process of ordering a new radiator and a new reproduction front passenger fender from RockAuto. Right before I pressed the button to go to checkout online, I thought I would try one more source I know on the other side of town for a used fender. Sent him a descriptive text and and image of the damage to the original fender I have on the truck, explaining I need either a 1968 Chevy fender or a 69-72 GMC fender or a fender that has the section I need. He texted back and said I have it and its yours for $60....score! Going in the morning to pick it up, while I am there I will see if he has a drivers bedside or a section patch.....keeping the fingers crossed for the last piece of the puzzle.

By the way I did order the radiator for $129 delivered to the door, cant wait for the brown Santa truck to show up again!

Here is a list of the items ordered for this project.
Interior items:
-missing shifter knob (ordered)
-heater control lever broke and switch is bad (ordered)
-door sills need to be replaced (ordered)
-need 2 arm rest (ordered)
-need 2 window handles (ordered)
-gas tank sending unit mesh screen (ordered)
-dash pad is toast (ordered)
-seat needs a new cover (need to pick up)

Exterior rust items:
-2 rocker panels (ordered)
-2 inner rocker/outer floor (ordered)
-2 front support (ordered)
-passenger bottom outside lower door skin (ordered)
-passenger fender (need to pick up -Craigslist)

Drive Train items:
-pvc valve (ordered)
-oil fill cap for valve cover (ordered)
-radiator (ordered)
-need tires

Running total so far for the truck expenses:
-purchase price $1100
-starter $59
-rag joint $23
-parts ordered $402
--inner rocker/outer floor x2, rockers x2, sill plates x2, lower door skin, front cab support x2, fuel sender, shifter knob, armrest x2, dash pad, heater control switch, rear light kit
-Wheel dollies (tool purchase will not add to total since I will keep) $97
-new 3-way valve for aux. tank with fittings $28
-pvc valve and oil fill cap $16
-radiator $129
-passenger fender $60

TOTAL $1817

[landarts]

Picked up fender Saturday morning for front passenger side. Will probably cut the section I need and patch it in. Also found a drivers side bed side that will be used If I cant straighten the existing. Again I would cut bad section and patch in.

Started on drives side outer floor inner/rocker and rocker panel repair should have that side wrapped up by end of day on Monday. Here is a picture of the fender and one of he outer floor/inner rocker going in.

[landarts]

Here is a picture of the inner/rocker outer floor all welded in with the rocker panel just clamped on to see what type of modifications will need to be made to fit properly. Also one of the front section of the rocker to see where it does not really quite form around the B-Pillar. I will make a few cuts in the areas that it is formed and that will allow it to be reformed to B-pillar then tack it up. Once that is wrapped I will remount the door and adjust for gaps and alignment. When good I will then tack in rocker and remove door again. Weld it up and finish for primer and paint.