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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 61
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well, thats the story... I ran into town 7 miles to get some lumber to finish our wood shed.... going up a hill the truck backfired, ran rough for 1-2 mins, and now has no electronics. At first I thought it was sucking fumes as I had over 130 miles on the tank, and the uphill with turning led to it not getting enough gas.... i turned around downhill to go back to town... truck was still running, but quite poorly, but i limped it close enough to the gas station, that i only had to push it half a mile to the gas station... filled up a few gallons, but there is nothing working as far as electronics... not even the gages or ignition cranking... nothing.
I'm thinking it is prolly an ignition problem, as although it sounded bad, there is no oil/ fluid leaks, truck has ran great for the first 800 miles of ownership. Dad said it might have had the points arc... any input? I planned on doing a tune up in the next few weeks, so I guess this just sped things up. What else should i check? Should I upgrade to HEI at this point? as I might have to replace distrubutor/ rotor...and plugs, wires, etc. How much am I looking at as far as cost total to do that? ~Zach |
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#2 |
Nothing to see here.....
![]() Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Shawnee, KS
Posts: 4,625
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Re: truck backfired, ran rough, and now has no electronics
check to see if the points didn't burn and ground out.
I had that happen once, and my luck, it was the last thing I checked.
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Doug ![]() ![]() The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not. Thomas Jefferson |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: daytonabeach
Posts: 22,956
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Re: truck backfired, ran rough, and now has no electronics
clean your battery terminals and cables
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71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY |
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#4 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,079
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Re: truck backfired, ran rough, and now has no electronics
If you have nothing. check the battery conections, then work your way back with a 12v test light until you find the place where you stop getting power.
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-- Josh Instagram: @americanmusc1e OLD SKOOL-- 1970 C10. 454/Th400/3.07 posi Build Thread FARM TRUCK----1949 Chevrolet 3800 Power Wagon Hauler Build Thread 1999 4wd OBS Tahoe - daily. DM me if you can't see photos i posted |
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#5 |
Moderator
![]() Join Date: May 2007
Location: Southern Cal
Posts: 20,006
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Re: truck backfired, ran rough, and now has no electronics
If you have to replace all the stuff listed, you might be better off going with an HEI. I have the stock points style ignition in one of my trucks, and HEI in the other. The HEI is awesome, never had any problems. I do not have any problems with my stock set-up for the time being....but when I do, I am going to swap it out for HEI as well.
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1972 C/10 Cheyenne Super SWB. Restored, loaded, slammed. 1968 C/10 50th Anniversary LWB. Unrestored, stock, daily driver/work truck. RIP ElJay RIP 67ChevyRedneck RIP Grumpy Old Man |
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#6 |
muddobber
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: lavaca ar
Posts: 78
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Re: truck backfired, ran rough, and now has no electronics
alternator?
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Grande Prairie Alberta
Posts: 261
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Re: truck backfired, ran rough, and now has no electronics
maybe your engine wasnt turning your alternator fast enough for it to charge the battery, does it have power anywhere (starter, lights, horn?) or is it completely dead
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eh ![]() 1970 Chevy C20 daily driver ![]() 1975 GMC Jimmy 4x4 project ![]() 1966 GMC C10 Dad's project ![]() |
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 61
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Re: truck backfired, ran rough, and now has no electronics
It is completely dead... I had my battery heat up yesterday.... was running fine... proper voltage etc...and battery wasn't hot (checked once before it died when I stopped at a local store en route). Every time before that it has starte immediately, even when cold. It would be running smoothly before the noise of the starter was gone. Although, sometimes as of late, it seemed the idle was high on startup as if the choke was too much. Would blip the throttle to slow it down.
It could be a multitude of things... going to look at the points in the morning. and start from the battery, which is not dead (i touched a screw driver across it) going back. Like I said, was planning on doing a full tune-up anyways. Was thinking of going HEI from Skip White as I read on this thread...I do like the wire routing clips shown in that thread as well... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...apa+hei&page=2 I'm not sure what the difference/ benefit would be from the 50k volt and 65k volt? What voltage are the rebuilds from napa... seeing as its in town, it is somewhat convenient. Then going with the 74/75 corvette wires... any suggestions on what heat/ # for the spark plugs? Was thinking mid level from napa (NGK?) not sure if you have to 'upgrade' due to the HEI from what they will recommend at the parts counter. Also, I am fairly sure the altenator is original, what can I do about rebuilding it? Who should I contact (store)? Thanks for the help everyone, I've had older dirtbikes, but this is my first old truck, never had a point ignition go bad, not even on a lawn mower, and mostly I've driven mid-90's jeep cherokee's, that efi has its advantages. ~Zach |
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#9 |
Hittin E-Z Street on Mud Tires
![]() Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 23,090
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Re: truck backfired, ran rough, and now has no electronics
Check all grounds (and make sure the truck has them all.) Battery cables as suggested and also check out the junction block on the PS fender. That little booger gave me hell last year a couple times. Look for broken/frayed/burned wires. HEI is a great upgrade as long as you do it properly with the correct 12V wire feed. Up in your area rust is common and grounds and electrical connections get corroded/rusty more easily.
Your local parts stores should be able to test your alternator for you. They can also load test your battery to tell if it's still good or not. Hey, it's free... Touching a screwdriver across the posts of a battery does not mean it's still good. I got a cheap voltmeter at wal-mart for like 10 or 12 bucks a couple years ago and I've used it on lots of little projects after messing with my trucks issues.
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Jesse James 1967 C10 SWB Stepside: 350/700R4/3.73 1965 Ford Mustang: 289/T5-5spd/3.25 Trac-Loc 1968 Pontiac Firebird: Project Fire Chicken! 2015 Silverado Double Cab 5.3L Z71 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L 5spd 2020 Chevrolet Equinox Premium 2.0L Turbo 2011 Mustang V6 ~ Wife's ride ![]() American Born, Country by the Grace of God ![]() 1967 CST Shop Truck Rebuild! My 1967 C-10 Build Thread My Vintage Air A/C Install Project "On a Dime" Trying my hand at Home Renovation! 1965 Mustang Modifications! Last edited by 67ChevyRedneck; 05-15-2009 at 12:20 AM. |
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#10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: El Paso TX
Posts: 76
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Re: truck backfired, ran rough, and now has no electronics
IF I could make a recommendation it would be instead of $15-$20 on a no name offshore DMM from autozone, get an older fluke off ebay. Mine are 8024s iirc, not auto ranging (I hate that) and are push button units handed down from Bell South via my Grandfather... but I've seen them and the entry level yellow flukes on ebay going for $10-$20.
personally I like the non autoranging because the 20V setting is already perfect for 12v automotive and stereo work, and they are faster reading without needing to range, and if I ever want new cables, an induction pickup, a thermocouple, etc, I can get one (or many) cheap. |
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