Nervous mechanic needing help/support/a big greasy hug!

[Lippyp]

I need some help/reassurance guys, it has to be the best part of 20 years since I last tore into an engine any deeper than just a routine service and I'm a bit nervous, not the least because its only been inline fours I've worked on and never a V8. I have fully rebuilt a couple of Triumph engines, redone heads on alfasuds so I'm not a novice but I have lost a bit of confidence I guess.

This is what I need to do and any advice/help/list of stuff I should have to hand would be very welcome. At the moment I have a 1969 350 in my 67, it has ramshorns, duals, the stock intake manifold with a newish Carter AFB sat on top, carter electric fuel pump, electric fan, Mallory twin point dizzy, an internally regulated alternator and an unknown but possibly not stock cam. It also has manual drums.

I have a brand new Edelbrock performer eps manifold to go on with a felpro gasket set, a used stock HEI distributor with new cap, rotor and even a new GM module if I need it, a set of leads for the HEI, a brand new M&H engine wiring loom modified for HEI. I'm going to buy a set of decent intake bolts to go with it (any reccomendations?)

So I'm guessing the order is as follows:

Remove plugs, rotate engine until no 1 cylinder is on the compression stroke and the rotor is pointing to the no1 wire.
Drain coolant
Disconnect gas lines, throttle rod, choke cable and remove carb, remove valve covers
Remove dizzy
Undo intake bolts a few turns each in turn until all are out
Lever off intake
Clean up mounting faces

Then it all gets a little more hazy!

Do I use the rubber end seals that come with the gasket or RTV sealant when refitting? Do I used any gasket cement on the gaskets? What about sealant on any of the bolts?

From what I've read on here it seems most people reccomend using RTV sealant, letting it go off for a short while and then dropping the intake carefully on. I take it theres then a specific order for doing the bolts up like there is with head bolts? What torque setting do I use?

The I guess its a matter of lining up the rotor arm in the HEI dizzy with what I want to be no 1 wire and carefully dropping it in so it stays lined up and then bolt it down. Is there a gasket that goes under the dizzy?

After that its a matter of figuring out where the new wires all go as my loom has been fairly hacked around and connecting them all up. Refit the carb with a new gasket, reconnect the lines and then fire her up and adjust the timing, I have a decent timing light. What sort of advance should I be looking at?

I also have a set of Mickey T cast valve covers with associated pcv valve etc to go on. Once that is up and running its the turn of stopping with a power booster setup to go on and a new set of lines all round.

Any advice, how tos, tips and tricks wholly welcomed as I am very nervous, I've kind of lost my Mojo a bit when it comes to weilding the spanners afetr years of dailies that were technologically beyond me (and that I had no real interest in working on)

So kit list:

Intake manifold - check
Intake gasket set - check
Thread sealer? - reccomendations?
RTV sealant? - reccomendations?
Carb gasket - reccomendations?
Intake bolt set - reccomendations?

Anything else I've missed?

Thanks for your help guys and I'm sure there'll be many more questions once I start.

[aziznowarinty]

sounds like you have a decent project ahead of you. as far as intake bolts ARP is the best out there. as far as the use of sealer most gasket sets have a rubber sealer on them making the need for rtv unnecessary but check the gaskets you have. however i recommend using rtv on the ends of the block instead of the rubber pieces that come with the set as they will start to leak. with the distributor you don't have to have the rotor pointing to #1 you just have to make sure wherever it points is where your #1 plug wire goes. then just plug in your wires in firing order. just take your time and label everything you take apart. good luck.

[Sinister]

Sounds like you have it pretty much figured out. I use oil resistant RTV for thread sealant. I also use Gaskacinch to glue the intake gaskets to the heads. Put some paper towels in the intake valley and the ports in the heads when cleaning the mounting surfaces. There's is a gasket for the distributor. I have that same intake manifold, there should be a good set of instructions in the box.

[OhOneWS6]

Don't use the end seals. Use a bead of RTV.

You do not have to point the distributor to #1. Just make note of where the rotor is pointing when you start and point the new rotor to the same place. You could take a picture of where it is pointing in case you forget. Personally I usually find a bolt or some other fitting that the rotor is pointing at and document it that way. Remember the dizzy rotates a little as the cam gear engages while you are installing it. Where the rotor is pointing as you start dropping it and where it points when it is seated are not the same place. If you can't get the dizzy to seat all the way, pull the dizzy and look in the hole to see where the oil pump shaft is indexed. You may need to take a big flat blade screw driver and turn it to get it to line up with the drive on the bottom of the dizzy.

There is a gasket under the dizzy. I would use it or you may have an oil leak there.

You should not have to use any sealant with those Fel-pro gaskets other than RTV for the end seals. I guess it's personal preference. Some choose to use something, I personally do not.

As for the plug wires, If you are nervous about it, you could remove the cap from the old distributor and leave all the plug wires attached at both ends while you do the intake. Then set the new dizzy and replace the wires one at a time using the old cap and wires as a guide.

That intake should have instruction with the torque specs, sequence and firing order. If not you can download them according to intake part number here.
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...all/2000.shtml

You'll be fine. It's a pretty easy swap. Just take you time.

[geezer#99]

Looks like you got it covered. I use black form-a-gasket or gasket maker (made by permatex) type rtv for the end rails. I put a thin coat in a few spots on the side intake gaskets just to keep them in place while dropping the intake on. For thread sealer I use liquid teflon tape. When bolting down the intake start at the centre (either side) and working in a criss-cross pattern work out to each end. Torque spec I'm not sure. Thinking 20ft/lbs. Do you remember the firing order?
18436572. As for intake bolts re-use what you got. Clean them up and put a flat washer under them so they don't gall your new intake. Good to see you're replacing the Mallory with an HEI. Keep us informed. We luv to help.

[OhOneWS6]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

...For thread sealer I use liquid teflon tape...

Good tip. Forgot to mention that one. The center intake bolts bottom out into an oil passage. Without some type of sealant they will seep oil eventually.

[silverstreak]

Pay attention to the length of the intake bolts. There's one area where they can contact and bind on the pushrods if they're too long. Keep this in mind especially if you're using aftermarket bolts.
Make sure the oil pump driveshaft is still in place after you remove the distributor. There's a plastic collar that connects it to the pump which can become brittle over time causing it to crack and fall apart.

[Sinister]

Also put a thin smear of RTV around the water passages on the intake side of the the gaskets.

[jhwkns]

Originally Posted by Lippyp

.......I've kind of lost my Mojo a bit when it comes to weilding the spanners

Mojo is never lost, sometimes misplaced, but never lost.

It looks like you have it pretty well thought out. I imagine that's quite necessary with barely any resources for parts. Having to ship something great distances that we here can easily buy across a counter has got to be very discouraging. I admire your dedication. If driving my truck involved that I likely would have something different.

As for your list; I think you should add a new thermostat, and housing.

Good luck. I hope you're driving it soon.

[El Jay]

Sounds like everybody pretty much has you covered. The only thing I would differently, and this is just a personal preference, I line the intake valley with heavy duty aluminum foil.
It just seems like it's easier to roll up after cleaning the old gasket material off the heads.

[Lippyp]

Some great advice and tips there guys, thanks very much indeed. Yeah it can be a PITA with regards to parts, for instance at the moment I can't find anyone with a decent mini starter in stock so I'm going to have to wait for a week or so for someone to get one in from the USA. Service aprts aren''t too bad as we have some good specialist who keep this kind of stuff in stock but anything out of the ordinary can be hit and miss, its certainly not as easy as a quick trip to NAPA or Autozone. I need to get the wife to agree to another trip over to your side so I can bring another suitcase of parts back LOL.

I guess some new plugs will be in order, anyone have any preferences out there for hei?

[silverstreak]

Originally Posted by Lippyp

I guess some new plugs will be in order, anyone have any preferences out there for hei?

I've always had good sucess running AC plugs in my GM stuff and Autolite in my Fords.

[OhOneWS6]

Originally Posted by silverstreak

i've always had good sucess running ac plugs in my gm stuff and autolite in my fords.

x2

[tim21391]

ive always used the front and rear seals on the intake... people tell me not to.. but i go by this.. i bought them why waste them? so i use them anyway and use sealer.. i like to use this grey ultra seal silicone that autozone sells.. comes in a grey tube.. then your right about the number 1 wire on the dizzy, u may have to turn the oil pump drive for it to fit just right.. and everything else u know what u are doing

[Lippyp]

So the old manifold is off, the new one is on and....I've come to a grinding halt.

The stock HEI I was going to fit simply won't fit in as the engine is too far back, even with the cap off it won't drop down the hole as its being pushed too far forward. I guess this means a small cap HEI is needed with an external coil. Can I convert my twinpoint mallory? I know way back when I inquired and there was no off the shelf kit so it had to go back to mallory to be converted. I think there may be a kit now.

I need to get a few odd pipe plugs as theres more holes in the new manifold than I need even though I have a little moon direct mount temp gauge to go in one. Can anyone tell me what size plug I need with the stub for the heater pipe on as it was a swine to get off and ended up getting a bit rounded off so I may as well fit a new one if they are easy to get. Are these a standard part?

I will also have some wiring questions. the top plug in on the back of my fuse block currently only has two wires coming out of it, the rest have been hacked off. I have a new M&H loom thats pre converted for HEI but theres more wires than I have. The brown one goes on the bottom of the brake distribution block I'm guessing, the pink and yellow to the HEI and the purple and yellow I'm guessing go to the S terminal on the starter.

What I'm stumped by is the two green wires that end in a round plug with terminals at right angles to each other. I have no idea where this goes as I don't currently have this wire anywhere.

I'll post some pictures later.

[junkyardjohn]

Your stock g.m. Hei should (& will fit) even if your motor mount towers are in the 6 cyl. Position. Just remove the cap, while installing & it should slide right in. john

[Lippyp]

Nope, tried that and it won't fit, its being pushed out by the firewall and catching somewhere down the hole. I knew the engine was in the six position but it seems it may even be a touch further back than that. I can't see any way of getting it in short of taking a lump hammer to the firewall and I'd rather not do that. Gives me a good excuse to buy a new dizzy anyway.

[junkyardjohn]

No don't do that. (i mean hit it with a hammer) do you have v-8 mounts?? LIPPY... I've done it hundreds of times. the only thing i can think of is maybe you have 6 cyl. frame tower mounts.

[Lippyp]

That may well be the case, I know it left the factory with a six in it and the frame mounts do appear to have been modified so thats possible yep. There really is no way I can get it to be square enough above the hole for the shaft to drop in more than an inch or so when its catching on the edge of the block.

[geezer#99]

Try this trick. Unbolt your tranny mount and jack up the rear of the tranny enough to get the dizzy in. Worked for me in the past.

[junkyardjohn]

I KNOW YOU REALLY DON'T WANT TO WAIT, BUT P.M. ME IF YOU WANT & I HAVE A SET OF OEM SMALL BLOCK MOUNTS INCLUDING FRAME STANDS IN A 72 PROJECT THAT I WONT BE USING. I WILL SHIP THEM TO YOU MONDAY (ANY IDEA ON THE FASTEST & CHEAPEST WAY TO GET THEM THERE) & I'LL LET YOU KNOW WHAT IT COST ME TO SHIP THEM & YOU CAN REIMBERSE ME FOR SHIPPING AFTER THEY'RE ON THEY'RE WAY. CONSIDER IT A GIFT ACROSS THE POND. DON'T GIVE UP ON THE HEI. THEY'RE WORTH THE TROUBLE. JOHN

[Lippyp]

John thats a really kind offer and I may well take you up on it. Timewise theres no great hurry as I've a load of other stuff to get done to get it through our safety inspection not least replacing most of the brake lines. I really appreciate all of you guys help and uinput, this is a great place to be. We can all mourn being kicked out of the Football (soccer) world cup together!

Here's a couple of pictures of what its stood on now, if you look at the first picture you can see its had a plate welded on at the bottom where it bolts to the crossmember.







Is there likely to be enough give in the propshaft (drive shaft) to move it forward a touch. I don't think jacking it up at the transmission end is an option as the top of the tranmission seems to be hard up under the edge of the firewall so theres nowhere for it to go. I've undone a fair few bodges from previous owners so far, another one won't hurt.

[junkyardjohn]

Phil.. (aka lippy).. If you decide you need small-block factory mounts & towers just p.m. Me & let me know. The offer still stands. I AIN'T GIVING YOU NO BIG GREASY HUG... BUT I'LL SEND YOU SOME MOUNTS. John