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Old 04-01-2008, 06:39 AM   #1
Sport/Truck
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Relocating proportioning valve

I want to make a bracket to mount my proportioning valve to the frame.
I’m thinking all it will require is the lower lines to be cut and flared. And the uppers replaced with longer ones. Is this hard to do? Is it a double flair? Any insight on how to do this/where to put it would be helpful.
Ive seen this done here before, but nothing came up with a specific search.
And a search with just proportioning valve....well, just tons of info
Thanks
s/t
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Old 04-01-2008, 07:24 PM   #2
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Re: Relocating proportioning valve

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I don't see a problem with doing that. Yes, they are double flares so you will need a flaring tool that does doubles. If you have never made double flares before you might want to find someone that has, to help you the first time.

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Old 04-01-2008, 07:40 PM   #3
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Re: Relocating proportioning valve

put the whole thing on the frame, under the drivers seat....
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Old 04-01-2008, 08:53 PM   #4
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Re: Relocating proportioning valve

I've 45 degree-flared several lines on my truck lately and it's not too hard...... but you need to practice as it first.

AND buy a quality flaring kit and tubing bender. it pays to spend!!
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Old 04-01-2008, 09:00 PM   #5
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Re: Relocating proportioning valve

ALL brake lines are double flared. The other thing to allow for is the brake light failure line that plugs into the proportioning valve. In doing this be aware that bleeding the system can be a real PITA so have patience and allow for several attempts--you also need to pull that front pin on the prop valve to get the right bleed from the front. Huck
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Old 04-01-2008, 09:45 PM   #6
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Re: Relocating proportioning valve

Double flares can be a royal pain. Another option is to buy lines at the auto parts store. They are double flared on both ends, and come in lengths that are multiples of 10".

You will also need a tubing bender. Without one you will kink the tubing. They are two styles. One has a round mandrel to bend the tube around, the other is a spring, similar to an old screen door spring. You slide the tube in and bend away.

The spring style is usually cheaper and works pretty good for occaisional use.
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Old 05-08-2011, 02:35 PM   #7
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Re: Relocating proportioning valve

I am running into a similar situation with needing to relocate the prop valve due to wheel well clearance issues in a custom project. How did everyones modifications work out?
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Old 05-08-2011, 03:05 PM   #8
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Re: Relocating proportioning valve

I put mine on the frame first time around and here are a couple of pics of the outcome. I made the bracket from aluminum bar stock and painted it.
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Old 05-08-2011, 03:26 PM   #9
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Re: Relocating proportioning valve

You could put it on the front crossmember, like the 73 and later......
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Old 05-08-2011, 06:13 PM   #10
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Re: Relocating proportioning valve

I put mine inside the framerail about even with the oil filter. I don't recommend this unless the engine is removed. It sure does clean up the engine compatment.
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Old 05-08-2011, 07:46 PM   #11
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Re: Relocating proportioning valve

great info to know, As I am planning on doing this to mine.
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Old 05-08-2011, 08:44 PM   #12
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Re: Relocating proportioning valve

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sport/Truck View Post
I want to make a bracket to mount my proportioning valve to the frame.
I’m thinking all it will require is the lower lines to be cut and flared. And the uppers replaced with longer ones. Is this hard to do? Is it a double flair? Any insight on how to do this/where to put it would be helpful.
Ive seen this done here before, but nothing came up with a specific search.
And a search with just proportioning valve....well, just tons of info
Thanks
s/t
I do this type of task, i.e., make steel lines ( mostly for fuel applications ) on a fairly regular basis, I'm experienced at it, I have a wide assortment of bending tools and a high quality flare set...and let me say that each one is a challenge...it is the type of task where one really has to take their time...one wrong bend...one flat spot ( the diameter MUST remain ROUND otherwise it creates a RESTRICTION ) and if you mess-up...it's trash and you have to begin all over again. To do this type of task, CORRECTLY, one needs to be experienced at it.

I'd suggest using RUSSELL PERFORMANCE COMPETITION BRAKE HOSE :

http://www.russellperformance.com/mc...petition.shtml

This stuff is not cheap...but for what you will spend on tools alone...you could buy the hoses you need. BTW: bending tools for STEEL line NEED to be high quality...in this case Harbor Freight stuff will not make the grade...needs to be Proto, Snap-on quality.
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