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01-16-2006, 03:51 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Spokane Washington
Posts: 85
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4spd to T-350 swap info wanted 67 c10
I'm comencing to start thinking of getting ready to swap out my 4 speed in my 67 2wd c10 pu.
For a turbo 350. And while I have swapped out power glides for 350s before it has been years ago, and a little different procedure I'm sure. Pretty sure I can figure out how to get my 4 speed out in mostly one peice (depending on how much it pisses me off) but, what do I need to be thinking of doing to get my 1976 short shaft T 350 in its place? Once the 4 spd is out I will pull flywheel and put on flexplate that came with t 350? Then bolt on torq converter to flex plate ? Sorry, as I said its been a long time... I just read in another forum that the crossmember/ trans support are possably located in two different places for the 4 spd and auto trans? I have been busy upgrading the engine (read, making it drivable after sitting in the back of a shop since 1980) and have not gotten under it to look yet, this swap is just something I am trying to get a little info on now, so when I'm ready in a month or whatever, it will go smoothly .......Ya right lol. Thanks for any thoughts, ideas, tips. CoolRide |
01-16-2006, 04:37 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Huntsville Ontario Canada
Posts: 4,052
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Re: 4spd to T-350 swap info wanted 67 c10
You will need a auto crossmember. Available new or used.
Decide one coloum shif or floor shift. If coloum dont bother with stock shifter parts. LOKAR makes a universal shift linkage that works great in our truck MOCWON myself and a few others are using it. Flywheel for T350 will bolt up to your motor. Removal of clutch pedal. Speedo cable might also be a issue Drive shaft length will be a issue.
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1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017 1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck 1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck" 2005 TAHOE DD Last edited by 72MARIO; 01-16-2006 at 04:38 PM. |
01-16-2006, 06:29 PM | #3 | |
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Spokane Washington
Posts: 85
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Re: 4spd to T-350 swap info wanted 67 c10
Quote:
I'll probably go with a Lokar floor shifter if that is the type that mounts right to the trans. I have used, in the past, those B&M mega/star shifters and had a hell of a time gettin them set up right, so I don't want to use one of the cable type shifters this time. I will leave the clutch pedal just to confuse myself |
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01-16-2006, 04:37 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Arizona
Posts: 260
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Re: 4spd to T-350 swap info wanted 67 c10
What kind of 4 speed is it? Saginaw
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65 SWB 454 350T |
01-16-2006, 06:24 PM | #5 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Spokane Washington
Posts: 85
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Re: 4spd to T-350 swap info wanted 67 c10
Quote:
Golly! I don't know. I'm sure whatever it is, it is the original as everything on this truck has been execpt plugs and hoses. First is granny, don't even use it, other than that I know nothing about it. CoolRide |
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01-16-2006, 05:13 PM | #6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: CA
Posts: 5,807
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Re: 4spd to T-350 swap info wanted 67 c10
The transmission input shaft support bushing that is pressed into the end of your crank shaft may be a problem. There's a chance it might interfere with your torque converter. Some people have had problems with this and some have not. Once you have installed your flex plate, you may want to hold your torque converter up against the back of the flex plate to see if the bushing gets in the way. It would be a bummer to have to remove the transmission after installing it if the bushing gets in the way.
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01-16-2006, 05:29 PM | #7 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
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Re: 4spd to T-350 swap info wanted 67 c10
I would say screw a stock shifter, the stock ones are junk, and an aftermarket floor shifter is so much easier. If looks matter, get a shifter that looks like a 4 speed shifter.
You'll need a rad with a tranny cooler, or a large external cooler. Lines will also be needed. You can use rubber, but it has to be the right fittings and right rubber. They are rather expensive, so steel PITA lines will probably be your choice. Your 4 speed should be held in by two arms that hold it up from the sides, kinda like motor mounts, when the auto will have a cross member that it'll rest on. I say rip the pilot bearing out with the fly wheel, no need for it anymore. I'm pretty sure you'll need a new starter, automatic style. A patch of sorts for the tranny hump will be needed... onless you need a place to tos your beer when the cops pulll you over. |
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