67-72 dually wheels/rims.....what crosses over?

[72freak]

Are they the typical 8 on 6.5. I want to get rid of the split rims and move to something newer. Can I go with the

1) most years GM
2)Ford to 1999
3) most all Dodge

I was told the new GM stuff wont work


WHAT CAN I USE????????

[racerman85]

http://www.stagewest4x4.com/store2/s...lt-pattern.htm

I dont know if that will help any, I just skimmed through it...

[72freak]

Originally Posted by racerman85

http://www.stagewest4x4.com/store2/s...lt-pattern.htm

I dont know if that will help any, I just skimmed through it...

If that is correct.....then pretty much anything will work except late Ford stuff

Anyone else?????????

[Longhorn Man]

if you plan on carrying heavy loads, you'll need to stick with GM wheels so the hub will carry the load, and not the wheel studs.

[oldiron]

I found Weld wheels will work.

[72freak]

Ok.........so if anyone has any..........Im in the market

[kwmech]

I put some 1981s on my 69 ----- not the best pic of the wheels

[72freak]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

if you plan on carrying heavy loads, you'll need to stick with GM wheels so the hub will carry the load, and not the wheel studs.

So it looks like after 87 GM went to a metric stud. Can I just use a nut that is tapered to make up for the diference in the hole??

65-87 8 on 6.5 in. 9/16
88-04 C3500-K3500 1 TON & HD 2/4WD 8 on 6.5 in. 14X1.50

[Chris H]

I cut and pasted this from a previous post I made, but it is worth repeating:

According to Accuride's wheel catalog, wheels from 1976-2000 C/K trucks are the same (16"x6", part #29587). These wheels have a 4.56" center bore, and are supposed to be used with a clamp plate and 90 degree cone nuts (clamp plate is GM part #472536).
Previous to 1976, the factory single piece wheels were 16.5", and they will work too.

1971 and 1972 C30 trucks have the larger 9/16 studs, so the wheels are a bolt-on. 1967 1968 1969 and 1970 used 1/2 studs. I had always thought of having some small bushings made to fill the gap so the wheel couldn't rotate (I had a 68 C30 motorhome). The alternative was to install the bigger studs (or take your chances)

You can get by with less, but its hard to justify when you think of what might happen if you lose a wheel or break all your studs. Much easier to make things right in your driveway!!!

[67_C-30]

I re-drilled the drums and went with 9/16 on my '69 C-30 car hauler, and 14mm on my '67 C-30. 9/16 measures .562 and 14mm meaures .551, so they are very close in diameter.

[special-K]

The drum brake trucks have smaller studs and flat-back castle-type lugs.The disc brake trucks have bigger studs(& holes in wheels)and use chamfered lugs with spreader rings with beveled seats to center lugs on stud on GM.I ran late wheels on a`70 for awhile with no problem.But,later drilled for larger studs,beveled the holes in the wheel,and went with the conical lugs.

[alschevy]

The rims you are looking for are called bud wheels i have them on my one ton

1967 chevy one ton wrecker truck

[Longhorn Man]

I'll be honest... I have always run 71 and newer 9/16 stud hole wheels on my 2 70 longhorns with 1/2 inch studs.
While I have never had an issue, I would NOT do it on something that is always loaded.
The lig nuts and studs don't take the load on a properly futted hub excentric wheel. All they do is clamp it to the hub. The cone shape on the smaller lugnuts do full the larger hole of the later factory wheels.
however, there IS some room in there, and with heavy loads on a regular basis, it could be an issue. The empty pick up with the ocasional heavy load... I've never had a problem.
I do check lug torques before and after heavy loads due to this, and also inspect lugs, nuts, and wheels whenever they are off.

[kwmech]

I forgot to mention that before I had put those rims on my 69 I had already swapped out the rear axle to a Dana 70 hd and converted the front to disc ---thus already having the larger wheel studs.

[special-K]

I noticed that in your picture.That`ll fix that.I ran the newer chrome Budds on my`70 work truck (which weighed alot w/o cargo) on the small studs with quite a good bit of weight on it pretty much all the time.I eventually remedied it,but did this for a couple years of daily use.Call it dumb luck,but never a problem.I can`t imagine why the rear wheels wouldn`t want to "rock" on the studs,but it didn`t.And`I never rotated the tires or removed any during that time.
1990(I just talked to that kid last night.He`s 30 now) & 2001:

[72freak]

OK dually dudes..........Thanks for the wheel help and keep the comments comming...................NOW my other question. I probably should start another thread.

Once I do my duallly "regular truck bed" conversion and my wheel swap..........I get the feeling that the truck is goung to ride fairly high in the rear. I would like to try to level the truck out a bit. On a C-30 2x4 what can I do???????

Can I raise the front?
Can I lower the rear?

How is it done

Thanks

UPDATE..........I went out there today to check it out. It looks like the rear axle has bigger studs than the front. The fronts are flat and have small studs and the rears are the bigger ones with a retainer ring and angles nuts. Ant thoughts?

[special-K]

There are drop shackles made.There`s axle-flips(axle over leaf).You don`t want to give up load capacity,right?
Something I have pondered is:How about lightening up on the leafs,like running ECE lowering leafs?Then install Airlifts or Firestone auxilary bags.You could air down for your lower ride until you need the capacity and the add 1,500#.Or...run those springs and have heavy overloads set up to do all the work when loaded.Find guys with lowered`73-up Dooleys and ask what they do.Most probably are basically running 1/2t suspension.But,I see guys using lowered trucks to tow and other duties.

[Longhorn Man]

most slammed HD trucks are on air bags, which, is the only real way to have lowness, comefort, and pay load capacity.
That's what I want to eventually do with the longhorn.

[72freak]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

most slammed HD trucks are on air bags, which, is the only real way to have lowness, comefort, and pay load capacity.
That's what I want to eventually do with the longhorn.

What about just raising the front an inch or 2.......can it be done somehow?

I dont mind a 4x4 look if need be.

[special-K]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

most slammed HD trucks are on air bags, which, is the only real way to have lowness, comefort, and pay load capacity.
That's what I want to eventually do with the longhorn.

Either you forgot to add "IMO",meant to say "best" and not "only",or I disagree.Why wouldn`t any of my suggestions work?I`d need to hear that before I could agree.Maybe it depends on how low we are talking.

[Longhorn Man]

I don't know if you can get that much lift without getting into geomitry issues.
However, i honestly never looked into it either.

[72freak]

Once I do my duallly "regular truck bed" conversion and my wheel swap..........I get the feeling that the truck is goung to ride fairly high in the rear. I would like to try to level the truck out a bit. On a C-30 2x4 what can I do???????

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

I don't know if you can get that much lift without getting into geomitry issues.
However, i honestly never looked into it either.

OK guys.......There are several ways to lift the front on a 2x4.........some will not require extra parts and some will.

Taller springs
coil spring spacers
spring spreaders

Looks like you can gain up to 3" without changing anything and up to 5" with slight suspension component changing and of coure re-allignment.