I give up on my exhaust gaskets

[ryes 69]

I think I'm gona weld em up!! I've tried paper,aluminum,copper and earl's($22) that ripped when putting them in! and they lasted for about 6min any ideas?

[RodC]

Are you talkin the gaskets between the exhaust manifold and the pipes?

If so, check your motor mounts. If they get too loose this seems to cause them to go bad pretty fast. I have the same thing going on.

[Mike C]

Sounds like you have discovered the joy of headers. I LOVE my 2 1/2" no-leak rams horns

[68 with 350 TPI]

some high temp copper atv sealant seems to work on my headers when nothing else will.

Just put on enough to stop the leak and then trim the rest off so it dosent look bad.

Or you may want to try and run 2 of the dead soft aluminum gaskets on top of each other.

[junkyardjohn]

I'VE NEVER HAD ANY LUCK SEALING THE CHEAP HEADERS FOR ANY LENGTH OF TIME. THE COPPER & ALUMINUM GASKETS DIDN'T SEAL THESE AT ALL. NOW IV'E GOT HOOKER SUPER COMP. HEADERS ONE ONE TRUCK & A SET OF DOUG THORLY ON ANOTHER WITH NO PROBLEMS WHATSOEVER. I ALSO PUT A SET OF STAGE "8" HEADER LOCKS ON THEM, & THEY SURE SEEM TO WORK. HEADERS ARE A BIG PAIN IN THE @SS TO WORK ON.

[RodC]

Sorry, thought you had manifolds. Read on, headers are a PIA. Get some Ram horns, thats what I did. The small leaks I have around the gasket is nothing like the ones aginst the head with headers.

[VNMOUS]

I've had good luck doubling up the gaskets as well.

[Longhorn Man]

I guess I am in the minority here, my cheap headers I had would blow the paper collecter gaskets, but you could blow one of them by farting on it. I put in some dead soft alluminum ones and never had another problem.
Now, with my super Comps, not had a single leak in the 18 or so months been driving it. Same collector gaskets too.
I always fun manifold gaskets on the header to head.

[Desert Rat]

longhorn,im in your boat(dont push me out!)my 402 has 89.99 Flowtechs,never a leak,ive even uncorked them and used old gasket,no problems they were some Mr Gasket cheap ones,maybe a flange is bad?Tighten down evenly not cranking one down?Ive heard many bad things about sbc and headers,i personally would run the vette manifolds,but in a bbc requires headers

[ryes 69]

good point junkyardjohn they are cheaper headers. and I've tried the double up deal. I like the rtv idea. maybe I'll try it. buuuuttt weld iiisss cheaper than the $75 so far on gaskets and sawzall if I needed to disconect

[Mudder]

I use manifold gaskets on the heads and paper on the collector. I also cut the headers, keeps the bolts tight. No leaks!

[Smooth68]

cut the header flanges....I guess that will keep the vibration down?

[Mudder]

Cutting the flanges works for keeping the bolts tight. Also makes installing easier. Gives u more movement to get the bolts started. And these silver manifold gaskets! Ive never had one leak. If you get the right kind of gaskets u can actually start all the bolts then just drop the gaskets into place.

[68SWB4x4]

i also have 85 buck flowtech headers, i used the CHEAP gaskets supplied with the kit, dead soft almnium collector gaskets.... and cut the flanges..... no leaks

[Slammed67]

Here is how Sanderson recommends installing their headers (this is for the header to head). I have mine instlalled, but haven't started the engine yet, so I can't really say how good/bad it works.


1, 2, 3, ......

4. The heads must be perfectly clean. Remove all traces of carbon, old gasket material and other debris starting with a scraper and single edge razor blade. Finish with a wire brush and a final polish with a Scotch-Brite¨ or similar abrasive pad. Wipe all mounting surfaces with acetone (Flammable!).

5. Install two studs, one in each end of the head to align the flange.

6. Coat the contact surfaces of the built-up weld rings on the back of the header flange with Permatex Ultra Black RTV, then slide the header over the studs.

7. Starting with the ones that are hardest to reach, install all header bolts finger tight. Remove studs and install end bolts. Working from the center, alternating left to right, snug up the bolts to 10-12 ft. lbs. torque with a short box end wrench. We sell a special thin wall Snap-On¨ wrench that's really handy for the job.

8. Fire up the motor, run for five minutes, and let cool completely.

9. Retighten the bolts, being careful not to overtighten them. Drive the car 10 to 20 minutes -- not hard or at freeway speeds.

10. Let the motor cool, then tighten the bolts again. Take the car out for 20 to 30 minutes, this time at speeds between 50 and 60 mph.

11. When motor is completely cool, check bolts for tightness. Drive 75 to 100 miles, cool down, then recheck. Repeat this procedure until bolts stay tight.