![]() |
|
![]() |
#1 |
Grand PooBaa Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: LA, CA
Posts: 5,302
|
New Wheel Color
Change the wheels to Rustolem rattle can gloss black. The chrome look on this tired stock color was not working for me.
Also anybody lowered their truck only to have the driveshaft center bearing squeal? Mine is warn out, do I need a special one on a replacement will work? And is it hard to change, DIY anyone? |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
upgrading to an older model
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Sacramento, KY
Posts: 346
|
Re: New Wheel Color
Nope...Don't like the black rims...change them back
![]() Just playin' they look good...maybe you should rattlecan the truck?!?
__________________
68 stepside, short-box, multi-colored (for now) ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Grand PooBaa Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: LA, CA
Posts: 5,302
|
Re: New Wheel Color
![]() Dont think I did not think about it!! Cant hide that much bodywork with rattle can paint. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Active Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Centrally located between Houston, Austin and Waco. BCS area.
Posts: 7,947
|
Re: New Wheel Color
My .02:
I'm a chrome person, but don't mind painted rims. I painted mine blue on one of my trucks. I think the black rims will go great with thin whitewall tires. They seem sort of dark as they are. Might be the lighting. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 | |
Grand PooBaa Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: LA, CA
Posts: 5,302
|
Re: New Wheel Color
Quote:
I got chrome rallyes 2 15x8 and 2 15x10 for $25.00 from a friend of mine. The chrome was rusting and flaking on some parts of the wheel in the lip area thats why I painted them. Had to get the 15x10's repaired because the back space was 6 1/2 inches toward the front lip. Had it move back tp 4 1/2 from back lip. When I finish the truck then I will have a nice set of 18" and or 20' wheels on it. Last edited by VDOG; 10-07-2007 at 07:50 PM. Reason: Forgot to add a line |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: PA.
Posts: 178
|
Re: New Wheel Color
Carrier bearings are not that hard to change, although I do remember having a bear of a time getting the old bearing off the driveshaft after removing from the truck.Put the shaft on a bench, hold in place with a vise. Then get a BIG hammer, a chisel, and a can of penetrating oil. Mine came off after about 10 minutes of beating on it.
__________________
_____________________________________________ 69 C-20 292, 4 spd O/D, 4:56 rears. No a/c p/s p/b p/w......restoration project,"Operation:Stovebolt" 78 C-10 305 TH350 new (old) daily driver 02 Suburban Z71 a.k.a. the family truckster 99 Silverado 1500 Z71 |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
|
Re: New Wheel Color
I would NEVER beat on a shaft with a hammer of any sort. We fire ppl at work for that stuff. That shaft spins anywhere between 2500 to 3500 RPMs when you go down the freeway... higher if you have a lead foot.
Take it to a drive shaft shop, have them inspect the 3 U-joints, they'll replace them (without a hammer) if they are bad, they'll spin it and ballance it if needed. I'm the cheapest SOB you'll ever meet, but I still took my drive shafts into a shop. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 |
I have a radical idea!
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Sweet Home Alabama!
Posts: 6,513
|
Re: New Wheel Color
You can press the U joints apart in a vice with a 5/8 or smaller socket on 1 side and a 15/16" or 1" socket on the other side. The big sockets allows the cup to slide out into the socket. Easy as pie, and no impact like beating causes on the ears of the shaft. This is basically what a shop will do, except a good shop with a press set-up to do it. Its the same principle though.
__________________
'67 C-30 Dually Pickup 6.2 Turbo Diesel, NP435 ‘72 C-10 SWB , 350 4bbl, TH350 '69 C-10 SWB , 250 L6, 3 OTT '69 GMC C3500, dump truck, 351 V6, NP435 '84 M1009 CUCV Military Blazer 67 C-30 Turbodiesel build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=254096 My trucks http://s226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ediafilter=all Member of the 1-Ton Club! |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 | |
Grand PooBaa Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: LA, CA
Posts: 5,302
|
Re: New Wheel Color
Quote:
I just need to change the driveshaft center bearing cause its squealling since I lowered my truck. Are you saying I should change the U-Joints also? |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#10 | |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Idaho
Posts: 4,034
|
Re: New Wheel Color
Quote:
JM2C
__________________
"Remember, They can Kill You, but they can't eat You, That's against the law!!!!!!!!!" |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#11 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
|
Re: New Wheel Color
I say the people who do it every day will be able to tell you if they are good or need replacing.
I agree it's not a bad idea to chainge them, but I understand money is money. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#12 | |
Grand PooBaa Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: LA, CA
Posts: 5,302
|
Re: New Wheel Color
Quote:
Seems like ever since I lowered the truck one thing has lead to another. Since I got my rearend rebuilt now my truck is running hot. So I added a temp gauge yesterday and it showd 180 degrees. My idiot light kept coming on so I got the gauge to show me where I was at. Last week my fuel gauge was working as it has off and on and then my generator light came on while the truck was running and the fuel gauge stop working. Truck was still firing up so change the voltage regulator, generator light wen out, fuel gauge still not working. Whats next!! |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
|
|