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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Forest River ND
Posts: 17
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1 ton
Hi Great site. I have a question for the HD guys. I want to convert my 1968 3/4 ton 8 bolt drum front end to a 71-72 8 bolt disc front end. I'm doing a one ton dually conversion and was wondering do I need to find a 71 - 72 one ton front end or will the 73 -87 one ton front end bolt on? Do the dually front end adapters work or best to stay away from? Any info would be great. Thanks Ray
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#2 |
Special Order
![]() ![]() Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Mt Airy, MD
Posts: 85,859
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Re: 1 ton
Hi,welcome to the site. Yes,you can use the later parts. Your best bet is pull the whole assembly from a donor. I believe where the difference is will be in the tie rods. So get the entire steering set-up.
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"BUILDING A BETTER WAY TO SERVE THE USA"......67/72......"The New Breed" GMC '67 C1500 Wideside Super Custom SWB: 327/M22/3.42 posi.........."The '67" (project) GMC '72 K2500 Wideside Sierra Custom Camper: 350/TH350/4.10 Power-Lok..."The '72" (rolling) Tim "Don't call me a redneck. I'm a rough cut country gentleman" R.I.P. ~ East Side Low Life ~ El Jay ~ 72BLUZ ~ Fasteddie69 ~ Ron586 ~ 67ChevyRedneck ~ Grumpy Old Man ~ |
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#3 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: New Madison, Ohio
Posts: 21,365
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Re: 1 ton
Hey 68 hauler ... Would luv to see pics of your truck
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A husband can be right...or...A husband can be happy. ![]() 67-72 Chevy and GMC Trucks...The Classic Truck for the Classic Folk. ![]() 1970 CST Two tone green, 402BB, 400 Automatic, Tach, Buckets, AC, AM-FM, Tilt, GM CB, GM 8 Tract, LWB, etc ![]() ![]() JOHN 17:3...The better side of "LIFE" Remember: Everyday is a good day...Some are just gooder! |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Forest River ND
Posts: 17
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Re: 1 ton
Hey Thanks for the info special-K. Anyone else done this? 70cst I'll try to post some pics this weekend for everybody.
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#5 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Cement Oklahoma
Posts: 916
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Re: 1 ton
1 Ton "dually" stuff is kinda hard to find, but it is out there, I have used the "dually" adapters before with great results BUT if you are going to use the truck for work or heavy use I would'nt use them, here is why all they do is space the wheel lugs out so you can use the dually wheels, this puts a extra strain on your wheel bearings so if your just doing it for looks use the adapters if your gonna haul or tow heavy loads invest the time and find a donor and do the swap
oh if your gonna use the adapters let me know I have a set for the front
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1971 K20, Coop's beast (project) 1972 C30 wrecker, "Big Ernest" (SOLD) 1975 K5 Blazer (wife's toy) she got it in the divorce 2014 Street Glide Special 1983 K20 Big Block, auto (work horse) |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Forest River ND
Posts: 17
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Re: 1 ton
Thanks coops714x4, Yes it's easier to find a good pair of chicken lips then a 67-72 1 ton. Also thanks for the info about the adapters. I was thinking along that line but wasn't sure. Mine will be an air bagged car hauler so it's got to be solid / safe. Thanks on the offer for the adapters anyways. Anyone else with real world experience?
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#7 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Cement Oklahoma
Posts: 916
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Re: 1 ton
are you going to use a flat bed or build a "dually" bed ? you can use your 3/4 ton rear end and just put longer studs in it if you are going to use a flat bed, now if you want a "dually" bed I would get a 73 and later rear end that way the duals will "fill up" the fenders. I have seen conversions done both ways and if you use your rear end the fenders will look funny. do a search on here for dually and you can see what I am talking about. Coop
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1971 K20, Coop's beast (project) 1972 C30 wrecker, "Big Ernest" (SOLD) 1975 K5 Blazer (wife's toy) she got it in the divorce 2014 Street Glide Special 1983 K20 Big Block, auto (work horse) |
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Forest River ND
Posts: 17
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Re: 1 ton
Ok Here is the plan take my 1968 3/4 ton and stretch it 8'. Put 1 ton suspension under the front and dual up the rear end. Bagged on all 4 corners with Ridetech controls. The best pic I've found is this minus the 58 -59 cab. Any thoughts are welcomed. Thanks Ray
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#9 | |
RAT1968 '68 Cab/'71 Parts
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Coarsegold, CA
Posts: 2,375
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Re: 1 ton
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M17 Coarsegold, CA RAT's shiny now. But always a rat. |
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#10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Forest River ND
Posts: 17
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Re: 1 ton
That's what I was thinking. Thanks for the pic! May have to change the bed a little to better match the cab proportions but luv it as is Thanks
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Mild manner bodyman by day Mad scientist (in the garage) by night ![]() |
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#11 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Cement Oklahoma
Posts: 916
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Re: 1 ton
Ray if you are gonna STRETCH the frame there are SEVERAL things to consider 1 you will need to strengthen the frame! my suggestion is to BOX the frame and add SEVERAL cross members with X bracing 2 drive line you need to make sure you keep the correct angle on the back section of the drive shaft, go talk to you local drive line shop they can tell you exactly what you need to do 3 suspension I know you want to bag it so I am assuming you are going with a 4 link or a triangulated 3 link, make SURE ALL your geometry is right or the truck will NOT drive or ride good 4 before you do all this work check with your local DMV you may not be able to legally use this truck if it excedes the GVW of a 3/4 ton truck " there getting pretty picky about that" COOP
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1971 K20, Coop's beast (project) 1972 C30 wrecker, "Big Ernest" (SOLD) 1975 K5 Blazer (wife's toy) she got it in the divorce 2014 Street Glide Special 1983 K20 Big Block, auto (work horse) |
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#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Forest River ND
Posts: 17
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Re: 1 ton
Thanks coops for the info. Yes I'm planning on boxing with 1/8 plate on the old frame sections. The back will be rectangular tubing. When at ride height the driveline angle will be stock or as close as possible. Still looking for a tri or four link that will support this load. Any ideas? I have a chassis builder friend to help with load capacities for the frame. Ridetech says their level pro sensors can be adapted to semi tractor bags if needed or I'll run two per side of their 3500 lbs bags. Looking into the semi bag option for now. Didn't even think of the DMV thing. I'll have to check that out on Monday.
I'm open to any ideas to make this better. Let me know what ya think. Thanks Ray
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Mild manner bodyman by day Mad scientist (in the garage) by night ![]() |
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#13 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Cement Oklahoma
Posts: 916
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Re: 1 ton
Ray if you have a friend that builds chassis I would make the 4 link its pretty simple as long as your geometry is right and I would put a pan hard bar on it sounds like you have a good grasp of the concept so I think you will do just fine COOP
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1971 K20, Coop's beast (project) 1972 C30 wrecker, "Big Ernest" (SOLD) 1975 K5 Blazer (wife's toy) she got it in the divorce 2014 Street Glide Special 1983 K20 Big Block, auto (work horse) |
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#14 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Forest River ND
Posts: 17
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Re: 1 ton
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