Brake line seized to brake hose HELP

[northerngmc]

So I am in the process of trying to change the front brake hoses on a 69 GMC. The left side went well.

On the right hand front I can not get the fitting to come loose where the flared fitting goes from the hard line to rubber hose.

I first sprayed everything with penetrating oil and cleaned off all the dirt. Next I tried turning the flared nut with a wrench ( regular not flared wrench) and it has stripped. I have now tried a bit with a vise grip which is simply taking the nut apart.

Any suggestions?

[mbgmike]

Originally Posted by northerngmc

So I am in the process of trying to change the front brake hoses on a 69 GMC. The left side went well.

On the right hand front I can not get the fitting to come loose where the flared fitting goes from the hard line to rubber hose.

I first sprayed everything with penetrating oil and cleaned off all the dirt. Next I tried turning the flared nut with a wrench ( regular not flared wrench) and it has stripped. I have now tried a bit with a vise grip which is simply taking the nut apart.

Any suggestions?

sometimes you just have to take a small die grinder and cut them off and replace.

[cdowns]

change to new hard lines they're cheap enough to replace

[independentcustoms]

Just this past week I needed to change a wheel cylinder on my 71 C20, and had a similar situation. I decided it just wasn't worth going through this hassle next time something goes bad in the brakes, and redid the whole system. I did the hoses, steel lines, shoes, wheel cyls, etc.

[northerngmc]

Well parts are at least a week away so I am looking for a today or this week solution.

Can the line be cut and a new end flared on? Or if it is then too short, can another piece of hard line be add in with a junction block or does the whole line need to be replace?

[67ss&99ss]

Originally Posted by northerngmc

Well parts are at least a week away so I am looking for a today or this week solution.

Can the line be cut and a new end flared on? Or if it is then too short, can another piece of hard line be add in with a junction block or does the whole line need to be replace?

Yes, you can add a new piece with a union. That would be the easiest. If you have a bender, go to the store, get a new line cut and bend it however you need an join it together with the union. I had to do this on the back of my C/10. Alot of times, on those stubborn lines, I have tried tightening them some then loosening some, back and forth, back and forth, and they've eventually broke free.

[northerngmc]

So what are factory hard lines made of?

[mclairmo]

Originally Posted by northerngmc

So what are factory hard lines made of?

steel

[mbgmike]

Originally Posted by mclairmo

steel

aka
bundy tubing

[Blazer1970]

You can splice in another piece of hard line with a flared union, or just cut the hard line shorter and re-flare if the hose is long enough. Don't forget to put the flare nut on the line before you flare it.

[northerngmc]

So what type of flare is it? Single, double?

[mclairmo]

Originally Posted by northerngmc

So what type of flare is it? Single, double?

double

[mclairmo]

Any parts place should have lengths of brake line with fittings already on each end. I usually go to Kragen or Napa. You can also purchase a double flaring kit and then cut those new lines down to the exact length or add different size fittings if need be. It should not be a one week proposition. Other than, the only other quick solution is to leave it as is.

[northerngmc]

Originally Posted by mclairmo

Any parts place should have lengths of brake line with fittings already on each end. I usually go to Kragen or Napa. You can also purchase a double flaring kit and then cut those new lines down to the exact length or add different size fittings if need be. It should not be a one week proposition. Other than, the only other quick solution is to leave it as is.

I agree it should not be a problem but I live in a small, 2500 people, isolated town, with the nearest town being 270 kms away and it is less than 4000 people.

[northerngmc]

The pipe is cut off right above the fitting and the pipe is cleaned up.

Now to find a new flare nut and tool at 5 PM on a holiday! I think we will have to wait until morning.

I am typing on the hood!

[hayhauler71]

Cap off the line so your master cylinder does not run dry. This will save you some time during your bleeding procedure.

[northerngmc]

Originally Posted by hayhauler71

Cap off the line so your master cylinder does not run dry. This will save you some time during your bleeding procedure.

I had thought about doing this and then didn't but after your post went back thinking maybe I still had time. 2 hours had past and there was no sign of any brake fluid dripping.


Hummmmmm, is the line that small that air won't get back up to let the fluid run?

[Smallz72project]

As a certified brake technician I run into this sort of problem all the time....about 4 out of 10 times I end up having to replace the line. Rule one....dont ever use any type of penetrating oil or liquid on anything in your brake system shy of caliper bolts and the sort. If any amount of that gets into your system it will contaminate it, which A) is not fun to fix and B) not cheap. If you or anyone else ever encounters this problem, best method to do is use heat and not a propane torch cause it just wont get hot enough. You need to use an actual torch and you heat up the nut and just work it a bit at a time and repeat if needed. If you end up burning throw the line or it just wont come unstuck...it is okay to cut the line and reflare it. If it doesnt seem to be quite long enough initially, you can pull some more brake line down carefully as not to actually kink the line. If you dont feel comfortable with that, I would recommend simply buying a new line from the master cylinder to the hose. You want as little junctions as possible, less junctions= less chance of leaks and or blockages.

[OldCreek]

Originally Posted by Smallz72project

As a certified brake technician I run into this sort of problem all the time....about 4 out of 10 times I end up having to replace the line. Rule one....dont ever use any type of penetrating oil or liquid on anything in your brake system shy of caliper bolts and the sort. If any amount of that gets into your system it will contaminate it, which A) is not fun to fix and B) not cheap. If you or anyone else ever encounters this problem, best method to do is use heat and not a propane torch cause it just wont get hot enough. You need to use an actual torch and you heat up the nut and just work it a bit at a time and repeat if needed. If you end up burning throw the line or it just wont come unstuck...it is okay to cut the line and reflare it. If it doesnt seem to be quite long enough initially, you can pull some more brake line down carefully as not to actually kink the line. If you dont feel comfortable with that, I would recommend simply buying a new line from the master cylinder to the hose. You want as little junctions as possible, less junctions= less chance of leaks and or blockages.

Does that include using thread sealer? (Tape or grease)

[lilred67]

i have used a propane torch to heat up the hard line/nut and free it up enough to get it to unscrew.
i'm sure some safety guru will chime in on that...lol but it works!!! rusty

[northerngmc]

Originally Posted by lilred67

i have used a propane torch to heat up the hard line/nut and free it up enough to get it to unscrew.
i'm sure some safety guru will chime in on that...lol but it works!!! rusty

Yeah we tried that. One safety issue I found online was to make sure the hose is disconnected or the bleeder screw open to allow the extra pressure of hot brake fluid somewhere to go.

[leddzepp]

Consider purchasing line wrenches in the future so that this does not happen again.

[northerngmc]

Originally Posted by leddzepp

Consider purchasing line wrenches in the future so that this does not happen again.

I understand the idea of flare nut wrenches but I don't think they would have helped here with the amount of corrision on the line with the nut.

But yes, my father always told me to be extra careful when turning flare nuts as they are soft, and we used his flare nut wrenches.

[joedoozer]

You should never use any type of teflon tape or sealant on flared fittings. Thread tape and sealants are for pipe threads, fittings that seal using the threads. Brake lines seal at the flare. Sealants and tape do nothing with flare fittings. If you have a leak at a flare fitting, you need to remake the flare, not use sealants.

As for freeing up rusty fittings and bleeders. Use a oxy/acet torch and get it hot. Wrap the rubber hose in a wet rag to keep it from getting to hot. Once the fitting or bleeder is hot, dowse it in cold water. The temperature shock should break it loose. But like others said, cutting the line and flaring it makes the most sense.

[northerngmc]

Well the line has been cut, flared, leaked, reflared and now all is fine.

Just need to rebend the line after flaring and hope it is long enough.


Thanks to everyone for your great input.