Cleaning up old nuts and bolts ?

[68gmsee]

Does anyone know of a good way to clean the rust and grime off? I'd like to reuse the ones that are in good condition in my old trucks and others that I've accumulated over the years.

I've used petroleum jelly and other rust removers before but these won't protect the metal once the rust is gone. I'm hoping there is something else out there that works better.

[glock35ipsc]

Either have them beadblasted, or just buy new ones. Nuts and bolts are cheap. I've also tumbled some in my brass shell casing tumbler.

[Stoney]

Chemtool Carb Cleaner That You Soak Carbs In Works Good Too.

[cdowns]

places like eastwood harbor frieght northern tools as well as tptools have a media vibrator thats inexpensive simply put its a bucket of blast media that vibrates you put the small objects like nuts and bolts in come back later and theyre done ready for paint or oxide coating or however you want

[ratrod67]

Make a buzzwheel from an electric motor and a wire wheel. Works good.

[68gmsee]

Originally Posted by ratrod67

Make a buzzwheel from an electric motor and a wire wheel. Works good.

Ratrod... Not sure what a buzzwheel is.


re: other options. I do have a can of carb cleaner. I'll try that. I'm also going by Harbor Freight to see what they have.

The ones I'm thinking of reusing are mainly the sheetmetal type. I'd like to reuse some of the ones I have since they look to be in good shape other than surface rust. Hate to just discard them.

[GASoline71]

Originally Posted by Stoney

Chemtool Carb Cleaner That You Soak Carbs In Works Good Too.

This...

Originally Posted by ratrod67

Make a buzzwheel from an electric motor and a wire wheel. Works good.

...and this... is what I do to old rusty bolts. Cleans 'em up nice. Remember to wear eye protection when usin' the wire wheel on a bench grinder.

Gary

[67chevemall]

Originally Posted by ratrod67

Make a buzzwheel from an electric motor and a wire wheel. Works good.

Works great....can soak in gas then wipe with rag before the wire wheel.

Then store them all in oil and they are better then new.

[Ironangel]

Muratic acid is diluted Hydrochloric acid and is widely used in swimming pools for cleaning and for lowering PH in the water, BAD STUFF! Even though it is the primary acid in your stomach, I'd stay away from it for reasons already indicated. Phosphoric acid, used in most "Cola's"(in trace amounts) is the acid used in the "rust converters" such as "Naval Jelly." It is much less harmful and reacts with iron oxide to form a "black phosphate" that is an "inert compound" and when painted with a zinc primer will remain inert to any further oxidation. Many nuts and bolts as well as many parts such as carburetor's on many older motorcycles are no longer available so careful restoration and cleaning is a must. Many restorers are using "Lemon Juice" to clean aluminum, brass, and copper parts followed with a sodium bicarbonate solution rinse (baking soda & water) to neutralize any remaining acid. Iye treated headers, truck beds, and many nuts and bolts with Phosphoric Acid and have very good results! My 72 bed had 4 areas where the rust had eat completely through the bed. Most rusting problems with these trucks and most older vehicles is directly related to poor grounding and "Electrolysis" takes over! Most rusting can be stopped dead by using "Anodes" placed at various locations on the truck or vehicle such as the bottom of the battery tray. "Schools out!" PS. "Im a hoarder!" Transmission fluid & Acetone is my not so secret but favorite soaking/cleaning solution!

[Billla]

Originally Posted by cdowns

places like eastwood harbor frieght northern tools as well as tptools have a media vibrator thats inexpensive simply put its a bucket of blast media that vibrates you put the small objects like nuts and bolts in come back later and theyre done ready for paint or oxide coating or however you want

this is what I do. I use the Caswell black oxide process.

www.caswellplating.com

Otherwise...

www.totallystainless.com

[oldsmobilekindofguy]

just soak them in WD-40, may sound like a hick but you will be surprised how well WD-40 works on stuff. I have used it to take tar off the side of my 1970 olds, and it should even protect the nuts and bolts

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by oldsmobilekindofguy

just soak them in WD-40, may sound like a hick but you will be surprised how well WD-40 works on stuff. I have used it to take tar off the side of my 1970 olds, and it should even protect the nuts and bolts

As WD-40 is actually a solvent that works pretty decently.

I've used a can of carb cleaner with the basket in it for nuts and bolts a lot to get the grease off. You can only soak a few at a time but you just throw a handful in the the basket put it in the can and let it soak for a couple of hours and pull it out and rinse it off.

I use "Oil Eater" to clean larger parts where I spay it on with a squirt bottle, let it soak, scrub it with a parts washing brush and hose it off and have great results. Some of the local shops are using it in their hot tanks because it is biodegradable unlike the old caustic powder we used to put in hot tanks. some of that in a five gallon bucket would work great for cleaning small parts but you still will have to deal with the rust. A rock or shell tumbler and some abrasive powder might work to clean small batches of nuts and bolts. just put them in and let them turn.

[chevydog66]

Alot of the original bolts for my 66 Chevelle and 72 GMC truck have certain markings on the head of the bolt. It's hard to find them like tha anymore. For instance, the front end body bolts on my 66 and 72 have big "C"'s in them. I just used a wire wheel, and a pair of needle nose vice grips. Then I poked the bolts thru a cardboard box and shot the heads of the bolts with a clear spray.

[prg machine]

Here is what I do and it works well. Wire brush the heck outa em. De-grease with a powerful detergent like POR 15 Marine Clean, then Soak in Ospho, POR 15 Metal Ready or something like Rust Mort. They are Phosphouric acid based. Leave them in a plastic coffee can over night submerged. Take them out and rinse off, maybe clean the residue with a soft brush. You want to leave the powdery looking finish, or etching. Then paint over them with a thin layer of Rust Shield or POR 15 followed by a thin coat of any flat black, I use Rustoleum. Look good.


I know that new ones aren't that expensive, but if you like original stuff and love doing it yourself................go for it.

I have also used the salts for the black oxide finish before. It is equaly as fun!!!!!
Google it, buy the chemicals from chemistry supply source and throw it in a steel can or old pot and heat up to a liquid. Very inexpensive fun and another one to stay outside outa the way with so ya don't lose piles of truck points!!!!

[prg machine]

I forgot to mention that this is the fstener of choice finish I use for all of my engine bolts. Black just looks right!!!!

[Aarons72s]

To get all the old rust, grease and paint off dunk them in a mixture of muratic acid and water. Strips it all off quickly. I use it to clean up all my rust encrusted parts. Just be sure to do this in a well ventilated area and wear protection. You will also need chemical resistant gloves. As the fumes are strong and the acid will burn you. They sell this at hardware and pool stores. I got a 5 gallon bucket, 40% acid to 60% water, to dip parts and stuff. As for keeping them from rusting when done paint them or plate them, your choice.

[Musclerodz]

Originally Posted by Aarons72s

To get all the old rust, grease and paint off dunk them in a mixture of muratic acid and water. Strips it all off quickly. I use it to clean up all my rust encrusted parts. Just be sure to do this in a well ventilated area and wear protection. You will also need chemical resistant gloves. As the fumes are strong and the acid will burn you. They sell this at hardware and pool stores. I got a 5 gallon bucket, 40% acid to 60% water, to dip parts and stuff. As for keeping them from rusting when done paint them or plate them, your choice.

I do the same thing. Works great

Mike

[bad6772]

Originally Posted by Aarons72s

To get all the old rust, grease and paint off dunk them in a mixture of muratic acid and water. Strips it all off quickly. I use it to clean up all my rust encrusted parts. Just be sure to do this in a well ventilated area and wear protection. You will also need chemical resistant gloves. As the fumes are strong and the acid will burn you. They sell this at hardware and pool stores. I got a 5 gallon bucket, 40% acid to 60% water, to dip parts and stuff. As for keeping them from rusting when done paint them or plate them, your choice.

ya beat me to aaron lol ... this works i learned it from my father years ago

[Orange]

Eastwood has quite a few options.

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=CONTENT

DLB

[68K20 x Drill]

I toss a few handfuls into a Gatorade bottle, fill halfway with old ATF, put the lid on, and then let the bottle roll around in the back for the truck for a week or two. this removes all the loose crap, and most of the rust. Best of all, it takes very little effort.

[68gmsee]

Originally Posted by 68K20 x Drill

I toss a few handfuls into a Gatorade bottle, fill halfway with old ATF, put the lid on, and then let the bottle roll around in the back for the truck for a week or two. this removes all the loose crap, and most of the rust. Best of all, it takes very little effort.

Now, that's my idea of cleaning bolts. I'll throw the bottle in the back of my bush hog shredder. That'll bounce them around some. May even throw in a handful of sand to help.

I've gotten quite a few ideas, appreciate the suggestions. I hadn't thought of the muriatic acid thing. I still have some left over from some gun barrel cleaning and bluing I was doing last year.

Chevydog, I also wanted to keep the original look on these bolts. I went to one of the local places and they were selling a similar looking bolt- .41 plus tax (almost .50) each.

Don't want to sound cheap, but if I can clean them for a few pennies and reuse them, I'll save a few more dollars for the paint job later.. I have a lot of them from an old truck I dismantled years ago. And I have two classics I'd like to fix up.

[passthebuck]

the wire wheel takes 20 seconds...

[superlifted]

Ok guys I'm about to blow your minds. I tried a bunch of solvents that only halfway works and made my garage stink to high heaven but not anymore. Instead of buying clr or evaporust for 15 + dollars a quart you can just go down to your Lucan Walmart and pick yourself up a gallon of apple cider vinegar. 3.50 I think is Wat a gallon goes for but this stuff WORKS.i grabbed all my rusty hardware in a gallon bucket and let it sit a few days and this nasty looking surface foam started to appear but the bolts look brand new. It won't peel paint its non toxic and cheap. Try it put see if it works for u guys. But n
Posted via Mobile Device

[72 Super]

Originally Posted by superlifted

Ok guys I'm about to blow your minds. I tried a bunch of solvents that only halfway works and made my garage stink to high heaven but not anymore. Instead of buying clr or evaporust for 15 + dollars a quart you can just go down to your Lucan Walmart and pick yourself up a gallon of apple cider vinegar. 3.50 I think is Wat a gallon goes for but this stuff WORKS.i grabbed all my rusty hardware in a gallon bucket and let it sit a few days and this nasty looking surface foam started to appear but the bolts look brand new. It won't peel paint its non toxic and cheap. Try it put see if it works for u guys. But n
Posted via Mobile Device

The Apple Cider vinegar works like a charm! I tried this out the other day. I let them sit in there all week, took them out today and they came out great! I have more in there as of now too. Can't go wrong for the price.

Ray

[leddzepp]

apple cider vinegar (or even regular vinegar) work great.