Wheels NOT Centered after drop

[angelobackwards]

Just finished up a 3/5 drop (springs) on the 64. Used POL parts. After doing the drop it pushed the rear wheels to the back half of the wheel wells. Has anyone else had this problem? If so what’s the solution - shorter drive shaft, moving suspension forward? I know they make new control arms up front to center the wheels as this was a factory thing but the rear is pretty drastic after the drop. Truck rides fine just don’t look right.

I’ll try post some more pics on my IG - angelobackwards

[kdad]

Several thoughts cross the mind!

Was the wheel originally centered in the wheel well opening?

Was anything else changed during the spring change?

Have you thought about putting the original springs back in to check it out and make sure it was all centered before the change?

You would think that lowering the vehicle with a spring change should not move the axle backwards.
The arc that the wheel and axle travel in should not be that great.

[angelobackwards]

Originally Posted by kdad

Several thoughts cross the mind!

Was the wheel originally centered in the wheel well opening?

Was anything else changed during the spring change?

Have you thought about putting the original springs back in to check it out and make sure it was all centered before the change?

You would think that lowering the vehicle with a spring change should not move the axle backwards.
The arc that the wheel and axle travel in should not be that great.

Nothing else changed outside of springs/shocks/ and c notch. U bolts were unbolted for about 2 seconds to put on the shock relocators but axle never moved. I know it makes sense for the axle to move backwards when lowering but what is the fix? Shortening the drive line wouldn’t move the axle forward. Not sure if I have to move the whole suspension forward or if after market trailing arms would fix the problem? Plan on going with another 2” block in the rear for a total drop of 7”.

[Johns 66]

Originally Posted by angelobackwards

Nothing else changed outside of springs/shocks/ and c notch. U bolts were unbolted for about 2 seconds to put on the shock relocators but axle never moved. I know it makes sense for the axle to move backwards when lowering but what is the fix? Shortening the drive line wouldn’t move the axle forward. Not sure if I have to move the whole suspension forward or if after market trailing arms would fix the problem? Plan on going with another 2” block in the rear for a total drop of 7”.

There is a solution but its a PAIN.....You have basically 2 choices.

1 you can cut the trailing arms and shorten then and the drive shaft.....NOT SUGGESTED unless once you weld them back together then box them for strength.

The second option is to move the cross member that the trailing arms bolt to...You will have to take all the rivets out.....get the rear end centered, drill holes and bolt to the frame....

there is one other option...QA1 Makes a rear suspension that is adjustable for our trucks and has threaded joints to be able to perfectly center the rear wheels...but its EXPENSIVE

[wichita]

Originally Posted by Johns 66

There is a solution but its a PAIN.....You have basically 2 choices.

1 you can cut the trailing arms and shorten then and the drive shaft.....NOT SUGGESTED unless once you weld them back together then box them for strength.

The second option is to move the cross member that the trailing arms bolt to...You will have to take all the rivets out.....get the rear end centered, drill holes and bolt to the frame....

there is one other option...QA1 Makes a rear suspension that is adjustable for our trucks and has threaded joints to be able to perfectly center the rear wheels...but its EXPENSIVE

No Limit also makes a rear trailing arm kit that is adjustable also.

[angelobackwards]

So after looking through some photos it looks like the wheels may have been set back a little before we even dropped it. Let me know what you guys think? Also talked to POL about it. They said the spring may have been put in upside down I guess. Matched them to the originals in terms of what looked like the top of the spring and bottom. Anyways here a before what do you guys think. Hope I’m not having to move the x member forward but if that’s it then so be it.

[COCONUTS]

Originally Posted by angelobackwards

So after looking through some photos it looks like the wheels may have been set back a little before we even dropped it. Let me know what you guys think? Also talked to POL about it. They said the spring may have been put in upside down I guess. Matched them to the originals in terms of what looked like the top of the spring and bottom. Anyways here a before what do you guys think. Hope I’m not having to move the x member forward but if that’s it then so be it.

I purchased all new stock stock suspension from POL for my 66 stepside and my first question to them was which way the rear coil springs went in and they replied it was “just a matter of preference”. Funny they would say it may have something to do with the springs?..... I matched mine like the originals came out, but didn’t lower the truck like you. They are centered on the retainer plates, so how could that cause them to move? That was another question and concern that a friend asked me when I was going to do a 3/5 drop originally. I wouldn’t have even thought about it if my buddy hadn’t brought it up. I did look at moving the x member to see what was involved and think that’s your simplest way out. I replaced all the coils, shocks, steering components, ball joints, and a new driver side lower control arm without anything moving. I did have to purchase POL adjustable panhard bar as mine was bent enough to to prevent the centering of the rear end between my fenders. Looking at mine it isn’t centered and favors the rear by at least 1”

Nice looking truck...I wish my underneath was clean like yours.

[Mack B]

Originally Posted by angelobackwards

Plan on going with another 2” block in the rear for a total drop of 7”.

That 2" block will push the rear forward some due to the angle of the arms where the axle sits, I'm not sure how drastic that will be. Note that with 15" wheels the arms will be below scrub line in the event of a flat tire with those blocks.

I'd measure wheel base center to center and see how close it is to the 115" stock wheelbase. I can't tell from the pictures but I would think the bed is slid a bit to far forward, there is a sizable gap between the two on stepsides. The architecture of the fleet side hides that gap and makes it appear tighter.

[angelobackwards]

Originally Posted by Mack B

That 2" block will push the rear forward some due to the angle of the arms where the axle sits, I'm not sure how drastic that will be. Note that with 15" wheels the arms will be below scrub line in the event of a flat tire with those blocks.

I'd measure wheel base center to center and see how close it is to the 115" stock wheelbase. I can't tell from the pictures but I would think the bed is slid a bit to far forward, there is a sizable gap between the two on stepsides. The architecture of the fleet side hides that gap and makes it appear tighter.

That was my next thing measure wheelbase see where we’re at. I know the front wheels were always centered centered from the factory, that’s why many use aftermarket to move them forward an inch. But the bet sat right back into its original mounting holes. All 6 bolts lined up nicely.

[Captainfab]

The only way to move the rear wheels forward is to either move the trailing arm crossmember forward, or shorten the trailing arms. Both are quite a bit of work. The springs and driveshaft have absolutely nothing to do with it. Although once the wheels and differential are moved forward the driveshaft will need to be shortened.

[SkinnyG]

It would move the axle backwards if the trailing arms were angled down from the frame. As the arms become more horizontal, the axle moves back.

With leaf springs, because the front spring eye is lower than the rear, flip kits move the axle forward.

On shortbox stepside beds, the rear wheel always appears a bit too far back. On the long beds, it always appears a bit too far forward (I think the fender placements are off).

[coolfool_2]

I lowered my 61 5 inches in the rear and while i dont think the rear ends were ever centered perfectly in the wheel well, yours does look farther back than normal.

[wichita]

Originally Posted by angelobackwards

Just finished up a 3/5 drop (springs) on the 64. Used POL parts. After doing the drop it pushed the rear wheels to the back half of the wheel wells. Has anyone else had this problem? If so what’s the solution - shorter drive shaft, moving suspension forward? I know they make new control arms up front to center the wheels as this was a factory thing but the rear is pretty drastic after the drop. Truck rides fine just don’t look right.

I’ll try post some more pics on my IG - angelobackwards

Yeah the step side trucks tend to be to far back in the wheel well and the fleet sides are to far forward. the front wheels are also to far back just not as bad unless you use larger rims its more noticeable.

[PGSigns]

Put a jack under the rear bumper and raise the truck up some and see how far it moves forward. A 5" drop does not really move the rear back a lot. The shape of the rear fenders has a lot to do with the appearance of moving back as the tire gets closer to the sloping rear of the fender it just looks further back. If it was a straighter shape like the front you really would not notice it.
Jimmy

[SkinnyG]

You could potentially move the fenders.