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Old 02-11-2003, 09:37 PM   #1
Blackhawkdc
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big block questions

Ok, here's my goal. 600hp, 575+ lb-ft from a 454 running on 92 octane. Can it be done? If not, how close can I reasonably get? I'm familiar with small blocks, but not very much with big blocks. Any cam recommendations? How about compression? Can I reach my goal or close to with reworked stock heads? Thanks in advance. Oh, anyone wanna buy a 440hp 350? I'm stepping up to big boy power.
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1969 Chev Short Step
425hp 350, TH400, big tires, fast truck
1979 Pontiac Trans Am
1991 Saturn SL1 - gas mileage! (and free)
1977 Buick LeSabre - for sale

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Old 02-11-2003, 10:36 PM   #2
72sbfs
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Check out the Edelbrock Performer RPM package with their aluminum heads. Well over 500 HP and thats more than you will ever hook up with street tires. Check out Edelbrock.com, they have graphs from dyno runs using their packages. Using all of their parts takes all the guess work out of putting together a pile of parts and hope that it works. Hope this helps.

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Old 02-13-2003, 11:09 PM   #3
Blackhawkdc
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Anyone else? There's gotta be others that have built their 454's. I'm not a big block man, I need advice. I wanna take the time and do it right the FIRST time.
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1969 Chev Short Step
425hp 350, TH400, big tires, fast truck
1979 Pontiac Trans Am
1991 Saturn SL1 - gas mileage! (and free)
1977 Buick LeSabre - for sale

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Old 02-13-2003, 11:15 PM   #4
Jackal2k9
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if you want a formula for power (parts etc) you have to follow it to the tooth. Its deffinatley posible to do a while back in hotrod a guy made 1000hp with a 502 running on 89 octane. i bet you could make 500 running on 89 with a 454 for about 5k or less. the most expensive part will be your heads. Go with a known combo though. and dont do it if you cant tune it... its gonna be a helacious motor to adjust. check older HRM articles for combos if all else faisl mail them they love to print articles about budget power. ell them you wnat 500hp out of 454 cubes for the best bargian price outthere. They'll print up the article with several combos in a heartbeat if they havnt done so already.
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Old 02-14-2003, 12:12 AM   #5
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Here's two different combos that you might consider. Sorry for the long post, but you asked. I saved the best combo for last.

-454+.030
-215 closed chamber oval 2.25/1.88 ported and flowed 320cfm
-10.7:1
-HP950 83 square jetting from dyno testing
-Comp xr274 street roller ground with 108 lsa installed 107cl 236/242@.050, 639/646 lift
-37 degees timing
-Dart oval intake
-550 hp at 5800
-torque was good with 500lbs starting at 3000 and climbing to 4600 peak.


The following is also known as a BSE combo taken from Team Chevelle.

454+.060 = 467
· TRW # 2399 pistons with Speed Pro file fit rings
· 10.0 - 10.7 CR depending on deck height, final combustion chamber volume and head gasket used.
· Clevite bearings - mains, rod and cam
· Fel-Pro gaskets
· GM 3/8" rods with ARP bolts and GM crank(cast is fine at this level) with ARP main studs and GM windage tray
· Moroso 6-Quart kicked-out pan # 20401 with pickup # 24440
· Melling oil pump
· Manley or DynaGear double roller timing chain
· #215 closed chamber oval port heads ‘67 - ‘68 with 2.19 / 1.88 valves, gasket matched and bowls blended
· Performer RPM Q-Jet Manifold with GM lifter valley splash shield
· Q-Jet carb with 75 main jet, 45B primary rod, AX secondary rods and B hanger
· ½" phenolic 4-hole spacer
· GM carb heat shield
· Ultradyne 288 / 296 hydraulic cam with matching springs - double w/damper. cam specs are 231I / 239E duration @ .050 with .550 / .575 lift ground on a 110LSA. Install on a 108 intake centerline.
· Rockers - either crane steel long slots or a roller. Isky are the best aluminum, Crower the best Stainless steel. Neither are needed at the power level.
· 3/8" one piece pushrods Crane or Comp
· MSD ignition- 6AL box, coil and distributer(optional-allows easy curve adjustment)
· Headers - 1 ¾" PRIMARY TUBE WITH 3" collectors. Remove collector(cut off) and install(weld) Flowmaster Scavenger Collectors # C-134214300
· 3" headpipes with 3" crossover and 2 ½" tailpipes. All bends to be mandrel. Use Flowmaster Big Block mufflers 3" in and out, offset - offset (quietest performance muffler) or DynoMax Oval RaceMagnum.
· Mallory Comp 140 fuel pump, regulator and filter plumbed to stock 3/8" fuel line.
· Mobil 1 10W-30 oil, Ford type F trans fluid and Mobil 1 gear lube
· indexed spark plugs
With a turbo 400, ATI 10" converter, 3.73 gears and either slicks or DOT slicks this combo will run 11.60’s to 11.90’s depending on weather, tuning and driver. My best was 11.49 @ 115 in mine shaft air weighing 4000+ lbs. on pump gas.
I must tell you though that with a stick you’ll never hook up on the street or track. This will get fustrating real quick especially when cars having much less power are running quicker than you.
This combo is fully streetable and was regularly driven to the track some 140 miles away and 2+ hours(one way) on a weekly basis. It was driven anywhere, never over heated and got 12-13 MPG on the highway with a lite foot.
Now find a competent machine shop / engine builder that can do precision machine work and assembly in your area.
I strongly suggest you upgrade to aftermarket axles, especially with a stick and I recommend Moser. Be forwarned you will break either the trans, rear, axles or driveshaft if your intent is to see regular 1320 action. It’s for this reason I suggest you rethink using a turbo 400.
If you must have a stick do it right the first time and get a Jerico @ $3,000+.
Set the total timing to 36 degrees and shift at 5800 for best ET.
For my current combo just substitute a Comp cams street roller 238I / 244E duration @ .050, Performer RPM Air-Gap(not worth any ET), Holley 950 or 1000HP, 4.10 gear, lose the tailpipes and raise the shift point 200 RPM to 6000 and you’ll run high 10’s. Just don’t forget things like a roll bar, SFI balancer, SFI bell housing shield, non-clip axles, and a real good suspension / tire package.
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Old 02-14-2003, 12:15 AM   #6
jeffbo
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I would recommend you check back issues of Car Craft magazine. They always have great BB build ups, for all different budgets.
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Old 02-14-2003, 02:38 AM   #7
spinning wheels
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I believe Chevy Power had been doing a big block build up also.

67_SS396; With the high compression, can you run pump gas? Seems a bit high, unless you are running aluminum heads.
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Old 02-14-2003, 10:18 PM   #8
superchevy
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Have you thought about building a 496 stroker motor out of that 454?
www.strokermotor.com here in Dallas built/dyno'ed my 383 smallblock stroker and I'm going to get them to build my 496.
Here's a balanced rotating assembly kit they sell, or check out their website. If you call them, ask for Dick, he's the owner.

496 Stroker Motor Rotating Assemblies
External Balanced Part #EB4961

Crank: 5140 Forged Steel 4.250 stroke
Pistons: Keith Black Hypereutectic Flat Tops 8.6:1 CR
Rods: 4340 Forged Steel I-Beam, 6.385 (.250 long)
Bearings/Rods & Mains: Clevite 77 'H' race bearing
Balancer: New OEM style 8.0 diameter
Flexplate: SFI approved external balance, 168 teeth

Balance: High performance street/strip,
piston and rods matched +- 1 gram
$1,499.00
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Old 02-15-2003, 01:00 PM   #9
67_SS396
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The cam on the first appears to be a little big. However the cam in the second combo works well. It has a swirl effect and bleeds off pressure which brings in a lower DCR to allow for pump gas. Check this site out for further clarification.

http://members.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html
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Old 02-15-2003, 01:43 PM   #10
mikep
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Have you considered forced induction? A 2 or 4 bolt main , steel crank 454 as a base plus some low compression forged pistons and aftermarket rods. You wouldnt have to go overboard on the cam or heads. In fact you could get by with rebuilt early 70's oval ports. In all your total long block expenditure could be in the less than $2500 range if you dont get caught up in blueprinting mania. Add to that $2500 worth of BDS 8-71 blower and a couple of edelbrock carbs and youve got it. Over 600HP on pump gas and the sound and looks to go with it.
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Old 02-16-2003, 02:05 AM   #11
Blackhawkdc
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I'm actually working up plans for going blown. At the moment I don't have the money to but the blower, but I can get the engine built and drive the truck for a little while, until I can get the blower installed. with 8.5:1 compression and an Erson camshaft. 292/302, 0.645 lift, solid lifter. Part number E120308. I supposedly can get 500 hp, 500 lb-ft naturally aspirated, then add the blower and it jumpst up to 640 hp, 600 lb-ft. I figure I'll end up buying a complete rotating assembly with forged pistons as the crank in the block is supposedly cracked. I'll know more Monday when I tear it apart. Any thoughts on other possible camshafts? I'm having a difficult time finding a supplier for Erson Cams. I'd have good luck with the Lunati in my 350, but can't find a cam from them that performs as good as the Erson according to DD2000.

Thanks by the way for all the advice and ideas.
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Seth Petro

1969 Chev Short Step
425hp 350, TH400, big tires, fast truck
1979 Pontiac Trans Am
1991 Saturn SL1 - gas mileage! (and free)
1977 Buick LeSabre - for sale

May America bless God, and may God bless America
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Old 02-16-2003, 02:21 AM   #12
mikep
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I'll ask my dad what he went with for a cam in the 8-71 blown 454 in his 69 camaro. I know he spent a lot of time researching bumpsticks and talking to reps of every cam manufacturer I can think of before he committed to one .
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