66 roof rear area

[mlevario99]

The rear of the roof has like a little lip, I am assuming that area needs to have caulk or some kind of sealer to prevent water to penetrate, is this correct, and if it is, what kind of caulking are you guys using to seal that area, it has to be paintable, correct??

Thanks

[rideblue00]

3m seam sealer

[WhippinSaw]

I used Evercoat Maxim self leveling seam sealer for the roof gutter and 3m seam sealer for everything else, Search the forums for seam sealer.

[theastronaut]

I like Fusor Self Leveling Epoxy sealer. It is paintable, and won't shrink or crack since it's an epoxy (no solvents to evaporate). You basicly apply it and you're done, just scuff it and it's ready to paint. It flows out smooth as glass- no need to sand it smooth. I used wax paper to mask the drain holes.

Lord Fusor Roof Ditch Self-Leveling Seam Sealer...

[cortcomp]

Astronaut, that's a hell of a great finish. how much did you need to do one roof rail, and where or what kind of gun did you use (or is it an expensive proprietary one?)

Lastly, how do you do the areas in the roof rail that slope upward? Do you do the level sections by building masking tape dams, and then when it's somewhat cured jack the truck up so that the upward sections are level and remove the dams?

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by cortcomp

Astronaut, that's a hell of a great finish. how much did you need to do one roof rail, and where or what kind of gun did you use (or is it an expensive proprietary one?)

Lastly, how do you do the areas in the roof rail that slope upward? Do you do the level sections by building masking tape dams, and then when it's somewhat cured jack the truck up so that the upward sections are level and remove the dams?

Thanks cortcomp! One tube will do the roof, it's $45-50 for a tube of Fusor 122 and around $40-45 for a hand operated dual-tube dispenser. A sales rep gave us a pneumatic gun years ago that happened to fit the Fusor tubes so I used that, but a hand gun works just as well.

I did the whole roof seam at once, starting in center of the rear and working towards the front. On the sloped side sections, I didn't apply any to the slope- just let it run down from the top as shown in the video. Then filled the bottom part to match what had run down around the bottom of the slope. Just take it easy with the top part around the slope area so there isn't too much running down- better to have to little and add extra if enough didn't run down the first time. If too much runs down you can pull it forward to spread it thinner.

[cortcomp]

NM, just searched around and found the other posts you've made about what guns and how it's laid. It's a product i'd like to try on mine as soon as we get the first coat of primer on.

[cortcomp]

Did you fold and stuff wax paper in the vent holes and pull it out? Maybe i can drill the drains with a very small bit after it cures, and just tape them shut in the meantime. This stuff looks great, i think i'll try it, and i found a pnuematic dual cartridge gun i can borrow. Thanks for all the info and advice!

[theastronaut]

I rolled the wax paper and stuck it in the drains. If I remember right, it still leaked around the edges, so taping and drilling later would be better. Post pics once you seal it!
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[cortcomp]

I doubt it will come out as well as yours (especially with some of the "repairs" i did around the front edges) but i'll post them up for sure!

[theastronaut]

As long as you keep the tip in the bead and and apply enough to fill the bottom of the channel, it'll flow out smooth as glass. The only place I had to do any sanding to smooth it out was where I stopped/started and it overlapped. It sets up quick enough that your start point will begin to firm up by time you get back around to it. Just overlap it slightly and sand the joint down to match once it cures.
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[cortcomp]

I will have to fill slightly deeper than stock to hide some of my butchery...err i mean repairs near the corners and on the upright areas. I think it'll go OK. I got done welding the roof on last night, cleaning up the spot and mig welds, then some filler in some areas under the lip. Good times. Will try to really prep this area to hide most of my work.

[1enick72]

great info, thanks guys

[cortcomp]

Just got done with mine tonight, was easy to lay and work with, was too high in one section that flowed out, and too high on the bottoms of the vertical area that i'll sand out some. Was happy with it, and a local parts store lent me the gun for free (manual one). Another was going to but it was already lent out.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=550931&page=7