Is there a tool to put a pitman arm on? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

shifty · 10-09-2005, 12:22 AM

I'm trying to rebuild my steering and swap to power steering. It's all torn down, wire brushed out and repainted and I got all the new parts (Moog/TRW) for around $135.

Trying to get my pitman arm back onto my new PS gearbox, but the damned thing does NOT want to go on (think it's the paint or powder coat on the box making it stubborn). I need something that will press the pitman arm back on. Is there such a tool? Is there a tool to get the center link onto the idler/pitman arm?

Anyone got any tips otherwise about putting all this crap back together?

Right now I've got the idler arm support and idler arm on loosely, PS gearbox is mounted, trying to get the pitman arm on so I can bolt up the centerlink, then attach the tie rods. Any advice is appreciated.

Took lots of pics for a writeup so far.

4x4Poet · 10-09-2005, 01:28 AM

On our stock steering boxes, the pitman arm spline engagement is tapered. Should slip on at least 1/4 way before tapping it on further. My last install went on near all the way. In any case, clean the splines, male & female, then force something like a big screwdriver inbetween the split in the pitman arm to open it just a little to get it on.

But I've found that when I couldn't get the pitman arm back on right off, it was because I had not properly lined up the splines on the shaft and pitman arm to include the non-splined portions. So, if you're as mechanically inclined as I am, make sure you have perfect spline alignment before using a BFH.

cableguy0 · 10-09-2005, 01:29 AM

clean the splines up and get all the paint off. normally i run the nut on with an impact gun to make sure its tight enough and fully seated.there isnt any tool to put it back on. impact gun and a socket is the only way i have ever done it. i wouldnt trust getting it tight enough by hand

BubbaGreen · 10-09-2005, 02:53 PM

You HAVE to get ALL the paint out of the splines on the pitman arm, its an extremely close tolerance part....if you had the part powder coated, your gonna have to have patience....tape off the entire outsides part. then get some DAD's paint remover and brush it in the spline area very carefully and let it sit for about 30 min. Flush this out with hot water and use a metal parts brush and clean the splines good. then go back over the remain splines with a scribe tool to get them good and clean.

hgs_notes · 10-09-2005, 04:09 PM

Actually, I think you need a pitman arm from a power steering box. They are different sizes, you can't use the old one.

HG

4x4Poet · 10-09-2005, 10:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

Actually, I think you need a pitman arm from a power steering box. They are different sizes, you can't use the old one...

Haha! That would up this thread's entertainment factor...

shifty · 10-11-2005, 01:14 PM

I have a new pitman arm already, thx

If anyone wants to pick up a manual gearbox and pitman arm, PM me. Ive got one for sale.

I think the problem is the paint as described, but possibly the problem is in the spline alignment. I noted the splines when attaching. Everything appears to be tight tolerance - pitman arm don't wanna go on the PS gearbox, idler and pitman won't go on the freshly painted center link (they all go on part way) and I haven't tried the tie rods, I was out of town all weekend. In Washington DC this weekend, so I'm trying to do more work on Wednesday. Had to remove and sell my tank to another board member last night.

Thanks for the tips guys, I know they will help.

Oh - and cableguy - For the record, some of those steering parts came in a TRW box but a couple of them had MOOG caps on the grease seal area and one or two were stamped with the "problem solver" thing that MOOG uses, so I'm thinking MOOG and TRW are officially the same company now.

cableguy0 · 10-11-2005, 01:16 PM

yea it looks that way. shoulda said something im 35-40 minutes away from dc

shifty · 10-11-2005, 01:41 PM

We've got a pretty packed weekend. I have quite a few friends up your way, probably gonna be up there again in the next 6-8 months, I'll give a shout in advance next time.

Fred T · 10-11-2005, 06:15 PM

It should not have paint on the splines. Also, the arm can only go on four ways, due to the splines. Last one I did was tight, so I lubed the splines with anti-sieze and jacked up the front of the truck to where the arm was somewhat parallel to the floor. Then I put a bottle jack under the arm and slipped it on.

shifty · 10-12-2005, 10:50 AM

There is paint on the splines. It came from the store like this (rebuilt, repainted)

10-09-2005, 12:22 AM	#1
shifty Questionable Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Atlanta Posts: 13,376	Is there a tool to put a pitman arm on? I'm trying to rebuild my steering and swap to power steering. It's all torn down, wire brushed out and repainted and I got all the new parts (Moog/TRW) for around $135. Trying to get my pitman arm back onto my new PS gearbox, but the damned thing does NOT want to go on (think it's the paint or powder coat on the box making it stubborn). I need something that will press the pitman arm back on. Is there such a tool? Is there a tool to get the center link onto the idler/pitman arm? Anyone got any tips otherwise about putting all this crap back together? Right now I've got the idler arm support and idler arm on loosely, PS gearbox is mounted, trying to get the pitman arm on so I can bolt up the centerlink, then attach the tie rods. Any advice is appreciated. Took lots of pics for a writeup so far. __________________ If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM.

10-09-2005, 01:28 AM	#2
4x4Poet Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: "Under Montana skies." Posts: 1,836	On our stock steering boxes, the pitman arm spline engagement is tapered. Should slip on at least 1/4 way before tapping it on further. My last install went on near all the way. In any case, clean the splines, male & female, then force something like a big screwdriver inbetween the split in the pitman arm to open it just a little to get it on. But I've found that when I couldn't get the pitman arm back on right off, it was because I had not properly lined up the splines on the shaft and pitman arm to include the non-splined portions. So, if you're as mechanically inclined as I am, make sure you have perfect spline alignment before using a BFH. __________________ '71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup.

10-09-2005, 01:29 AM	#3
cableguy0 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Delta,Pa Posts: 14,950	clean the splines up and get all the paint off. normally i run the nut on with an impact gun to make sure its tight enough and fully seated.there isnt any tool to put it back on. impact gun and a socket is the only way i have ever done it. i wouldnt trust getting it tight enough by hand __________________ Owner of North Point Car Care in Dundalk Md. We specialize in custom exhaust on both modern and classic vehicles. We are a full service auto shop from classics to modern vehicles. Feel free to contact me with questions. I will give a 10% discount to any board member.

10-09-2005, 02:53 PM	#4
BubbaGreen Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Cedar Park, TX Posts: 686	Pitman arm install You HAVE to get ALL the paint out of the splines on the pitman arm, its an extremely close tolerance part....if you had the part powder coated, your gonna have to have patience....tape off the entire outsides part. then get some DAD's paint remover and brush it in the spline area very carefully and let it sit for about 30 min. Flush this out with hot water and use a metal parts brush and clean the splines good. then go back over the remain splines with a scribe tool to get them good and clean. __________________ 71 Chevy C-10 SWB Fleetside RamJet-350/4L60e & Compushift/3.73Posi See it at www.prismnet.com/~grzanich

10-09-2005, 04:09 PM	#5
hgs_notes GEARHEAD Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: MN Posts: 6,126	Actually, I think you need a pitman arm from a power steering box. They are different sizes, you can't use the old one. HG __________________ If no one knows what you're doing, they can't tell you you're doing it wrong HG's Dream Car Build - Shelby Cobra Kit Build your own adjustable track bar 71 Long Fleet C/10 72 Jimmy 4x4 (Junkyard Jimmy) HG's Plow Truck '78 K35 Dually Bigass Farm Truck HG's thread of miscellaneous stuff

10-11-2005, 01:14 PM	#7
shifty Questionable Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Atlanta Posts: 13,376	I have a new pitman arm already, thx If anyone wants to pick up a manual gearbox and pitman arm, PM me. Ive got one for sale. I think the problem is the paint as described, but possibly the problem is in the spline alignment. I noted the splines when attaching. Everything appears to be tight tolerance - pitman arm don't wanna go on the PS gearbox, idler and pitman won't go on the freshly painted center link (they all go on part way) and I haven't tried the tie rods, I was out of town all weekend. In Washington DC this weekend, so I'm trying to do more work on Wednesday. Had to remove and sell my tank to another board member last night. Thanks for the tips guys, I know they will help. Oh - and cableguy - For the record, some of those steering parts came in a TRW box but a couple of them had MOOG caps on the grease seal area and one or two were stamped with the "problem solver" thing that MOOG uses, so I'm thinking MOOG and TRW are officially the same company now. __________________ If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM. Last edited by shifty; 10-11-2005 at 01:15 PM.

10-11-2005, 01:16 PM	#8
cableguy0 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Delta,Pa Posts: 14,950	yea it looks that way. shoulda said something im 35-40 minutes away from dc __________________ Owner of North Point Car Care in Dundalk Md. We specialize in custom exhaust on both modern and classic vehicles. We are a full service auto shop from classics to modern vehicles. Feel free to contact me with questions. I will give a 10% discount to any board member.

10-11-2005, 01:41 PM	#9
shifty Questionable Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Atlanta Posts: 13,376	We've got a pretty packed weekend. I have quite a few friends up your way, probably gonna be up there again in the next 6-8 months, I'll give a shout in advance next time. __________________ If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM.

10-11-2005, 06:15 PM	#10
Fred T Cantankerous Geezer Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Bel Aire, KS Posts: 6,264	It should not have paint on the splines. Also, the arm can only go on four ways, due to the splines. Last one I did was tight, so I lubed the splines with anti-sieze and jacked up the front of the truck to where the arm was somewhat parallel to the floor. Then I put a bottle jack under the arm and slipped it on. __________________ Fred There is no such thing as too much cam...just not enough engine.

10-12-2005, 10:50 AM	#11
shifty Questionable Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Atlanta Posts: 13,376	There is paint on the splines. It came from the store like this (rebuilt, repainted) __________________ If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM.



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