Driveshaft

[8848stro]

Hi Guys-new to forum,would like to know if a one piece driveshaft will work on my long bed 71.

[cdowns]

short story NO

welcome to the board

[leddzepp]

Welcome to the board!

Your first question has been answered...

[handsomerob]

Sure it will, if you modify your crosser and order a custom shaft.

I'm putting in a single piece shaft. Custom made through Summit, 4 inch aluminum.

[Shaky]

Originally Posted by handsomerob

Sure it will, if you modify your crosser and order a custom shaft.

I'm putting in a single piece shaft. Custom made through Summit, 4 inch aluminum.

What mods do you have to do to the crosser?

[handsomerob]

Make the hoop that the driveshaft passes through bigger, the driveshaft will hit the bottom of the hoop otherwise.

you could probably do fine with a 2 piece shaft, however I installed a new engine and tranny etc. and required a new shaft anyways so I went with a single. This shaft is rated @ over 500 RWHP

[Murphy IRE]

You guys were scaring me. The PO installed a one piece (not that he took short cuts or did stuff 1/2 @$%ED). My friend has a one piece on his '72 C20. I just got mine tuned up. What are the advantages/disadvantages. I've got others projects in front of it; so I have lot's of time to read the pros and cons.

[cdowns]

Originally Posted by handsomerob

Sure it will, if you modify your crosser and order a custom shaft.

I'm putting in a single piece shaft. Custom made through Summit, 4 inch aluminum.

you seem to have forgotten to post how much it cost

[69 longhorn]

Originally Posted by cdowns

you seem to have forgotten to post how much it cost

I thought I saw $395 ,in post#19.... nice lookin shaft too

[Longhorn Man]

there is no real good reason to do this. The 2 piece is stronger than your average one piece, and it is WAY cheaper to build your 2 piece with top of the line parts, then it would be to properly do a one piece.

[jbristo67]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

there is no real good reason to do this. The 2 piece is stronger than your average one piece, and it is WAY cheaper to build your 2 piece with top of the line parts, then it would be to properly do a one piece.

Seems like there would be a lot of opertunity for lost power on a two piece. I could be wrong but that's just the way it seems

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

there is no real good reason to do this. The 2 piece is stronger than your average one piece, and it is WAY cheaper to build your 2 piece with top of the line parts, then it would be to properly do a one piece.

All things being equal for a STOCK truck this is probably true but many of us have highly modified trucks. HandsomeRob is running the same big block I do with a longer than stock trans. I don't know how far he moved his rear trans mount but mine moved almost 12 inches....leaving me with a driveshaft about 39 inches long on an SWB Stepside. Not much sense running a two piece when the span is that short.

[Longhorn Man]

where will it go?
The resistance in a single added U joint and carrier bearing is so minimal its moot. If your engine is so lame that the added resistance reduces the rear wheel power levels, then you have some seriouse other issues.

[junkyardjohn]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

where will it go?
The resistance in a single added U joint and carrier bearing is so minimal its moot. If your engine is so lame that the added resistance reduces the rear wheel power levels, then you have some seriouse other issues.

COULDN'T HAVE SAID IT BETTER. JOHN

[handsomerob]

This is an article that might square things up for everyone, it's about cars but the same applies to trucks.

like I said I used a single shaft but I changed engine and tranny, and the the stock shaft was to long and had the wrong style yoke, also for this aplication the single shaft will give the right feel for hard launches.

http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/...ech/index.html

[russj67]

Originally Posted by handsomerob

This is an article that might square things up for everyone, it's about cars but the same applies to trucks.

like I said I used a single shaft but I changed engine and tranny, and the the stock shaft was to long and had the wrong style yoke, also for this aplication the single shaft will give the right feel for hard launches.

http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/...ech/index.html

Thanks for the article! I have been having trouble with my 2 piece "clunking" when I first take off when the truck has been sitting for a while. I've been wanting to check the angles, but didn't know what they are supposed to be set at. Sounds like the angles should add up to zero. It also states, which is not what people have told me, that there should not be any compound angles. My rear-end is not completely centered, so I'm wondering if this is contributing to my problem.

[leddzepp]

Originally Posted by russj67

My rear-end is not completely centered, so I'm wondering if this is contributing to my problem.

It is.

[jbristo67]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

where will it go?
The resistance in a single added U joint and carrier bearing is so minimal its moot. If your engine is so lame that the added resistance reduces the rear wheel power levels, then you have some seriouse other issues.

lol No my engine can hold it's own. My point was all things being equal why would you give up any power or add more moving parts to fail.

[Mt Man Chad]

The biggest problem will be you will stress the out put bearing to look like a egg on the tail of your transmission with a one pc shaft in about 100 miles!

Two pc design is much better.

[handsomerob]

Originally Posted by Mt Man Chad

The biggest problem will be you will stress the out put bearing to look like a egg on the tail of your transmission with a one pc shaft in about 100 miles!

Two pc design is much better.

Won't have an issue if both yokes are the same angle, issues arise when the tranny yoke and pinion yoke aren't the same angle, they should be parallel.

[Mt Man Chad]

Sounds like more work than it's worth.
The weight of the one pc shaft is the issue, not the alignment if using a steel shaft.

How much did that Aluminum shaft cost?
What are you gaining by doing this?
A 2 pc shaft takes care of all of that.

[Ram-Man]

I may be wrong but didn't some of these trucks lwb come with a 1 piece shaft?

[handsomerob]

Originally Posted by Mt Man Chad

Sounds like more work than it's worth.
The weight of the one pc shaft is the issue, not the alignment if using a steel shaft.

How much did that Aluminum shaft cost?
What are you gaining by doing this?
A 2 pc shaft takes care of all of that.

The shaft only cost $395
I'm gaining a shaft that will handle 500 + RWHP which I require, I'm loosing some weight off the rotating assembly and I was able to upgrade to stronger yokes, and U-joints.

there is a method to the madness.

Might not be the right choice for you but it is for me.
And in responce to the original post, Yes you can use a one piece shaft.

[Longhorn Man]

no LWB trucks 67 - 72 had a one piece shaft.
The shorter shats are less prone to twisting.
shorter shafts are less prone to twisting
the added joint adds a point to flex, a spot where you can take the shaft from one angle, and add another angle in it. Straight out from the trans (not perfectly straight, but fairly straight) and then to the cross member, where it can drop from that U joint. With this set up, the crossmember on the frame, where the C bearing is mounted, can do its job adding rigidity to the frame. If the hole is large, it isn't as strong. In order to cycle the rear suspention from full drop to full compression, (as a working truck) the hole would be too big to add strength. However, small hole in the crossmember, stronger frame, U joint right after that, full range of motion on the rear suspention.

[Mt Man Chad]

Amen!