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Old 03-27-2005, 12:16 AM   #1
shifty
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Unhappy Door is now bent and engine won't start

Okay, so this turned into the weekend from hell.

The HEI swap in the truck today was a failure. To make matters worse, the driver's side door was wide open and pinned my girlfriend's arm against a 4"x4" support for my back deck when the truck rolled backwards a bit b/c the e-brake wasn't set all the way. We're not sure if it's broken, but it bruised really badly within a few minutes.

Now the door won't shut correctly. The truck won't start. Need help with both.

Door: I need to understand what the problem is. There is no clear sign of damage to the cab...so I guess maybe the hinge is bent? I'm not sure. Kinda pissed about the door, but at least it didn't get ripped off completely. Basically, the 'block' that the latch catches is sitting too far towards the front of the truck.

HEI swap: Man, I'm lost. I'm getting both spark and gas, so I guess the timing is off. I swear I'm doing everything right . Here's what I did: I popped out the old dizzy and old coil. I removed the yellow wire from the starter to the coil. I left the purple and ground wire on the starter. I ran a new ign power wire from the firewall to the HEI dizzy. I removed spark plug on cylinder #1. I put my finger over the cylinder #1 and turned the cooling fan to crank the motor until it started to push my finger out and the mark on the harmonic balancer was lined up with 0ยบ on the timing marker (proper way to find the beginning of compression stroke, TDC, right?). I took the cap off the dizzy and inserted it with the rotor pointing at cylinder #1. I put the cap on the dizzy and wired it up starting with #1 and moving clockwise around the dizzy (153624). I inserted the rubber spacer and spring into the dizzy and inserted coil, attached the red and yellow wire, ran a ground strap like the instructions say and also grounded the black ground wire on the coil. I removed the vacuum advance line and capped it off on the dizzy. I turned over the engine. It cranked, but never started. To make sure I was getting a spark, I removed one of the plug wires, stuck a screwdriver in the plug wire and had my girlfriend turn the engine over. The plug wire is sparking in rhythm, so I know the dizzy is working. What am I doing wrong?! I don't get it....

If you know what happens when you open your door too far or if you have suggestions about the timing or what happened to the door, I would like to hear it. Should I take the door off by the hinges to see if there is damage to the cab?



I hoped this weekend would produce better results. This sucks.
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Old 03-27-2005, 12:25 AM   #2
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Old 03-27-2005, 12:29 AM   #3
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Just a shot in the dark but did you know that #1 on points type dist. and #1 on HEI are in different locations? You probably checked that. As for the door, no friggin clue.
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Old 03-27-2005, 12:39 AM   #4
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Also, make sure you are not 180 degrees out on the distributor. If you are, it will turnover like mad, sound normal, but not start.
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Old 03-27-2005, 12:40 AM   #5
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take care of the girl first, she will help you through the rest.
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Old 03-27-2005, 12:49 AM   #6
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When you say "#1 cylinder" are refering to the cylinder it's self or #1 terminal on dist. cap?
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Old 03-27-2005, 12:56 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhow66
When you say "#1 cylinder" are refering to the cylinder it's self or #1 terminal on dist. cap?
I mean # 1 cylinder - the front-most cylinder of the engine. The dizzy cap isn't numbered! You mean there is a correct #1 position on the cap? I had two people tell me that as long as the rotor was pointed at #1 cylinder, you could pop the cap on with the rotor touching one of the plug points. and you're good to go. Is this not right? How would I know what is #1 on the dizzy cap?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 69ride
Just a shot in the dark but did you know that #1 on points type dist. and #1 on HEI are in different locations? You probably checked that. As for the door, no friggin clue.
No, I wasn't aware of this. Does anyone have a shot of an L6/250 HEI cap and the numbering? I must be missing something.
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Old 03-27-2005, 01:03 AM   #8
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To H3ll with the truck, is you lady friend okay?

Do you have power to the new dizzy? I ran a jumper from the battery to the HEI in my 250/6, just to be sure I was getting power to it. The door? it may have bent the door hinges.
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Old 03-27-2005, 01:13 AM   #9
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Yes, for everyone that asked, she is ok (we think). She just got back from Vancouver - she had to manage making a commercial for Cingular. She came back with either Bronchitis or Pneumonia. Got a doctor friend (never thought I'd say that!) coming over tomorrow to check her out for the sickness. We'll have her arm looked at also.

DT: I gotta have power to the dizzy. No power == No spark. I'm definitely getting a spark. I will try to do the battery thing tomorrow. I thought about that tonight, but ... I had to cook dinner for the woman (homemade creamy tomato soup + grilled cheese + beer...great way to fight a cold!) I can give it a try tomorrow, but I wanted to post here and get some thoughts. I'm totally lost I want my truck to go!
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Old 03-27-2005, 01:20 AM   #10
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Power to the dizzy while cranking, and just the key on right? Want to make sure the wiring from the inside is correct. Double check the timing, if you haven't already could be off 1 tooth.
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Old 03-27-2005, 01:22 AM   #11
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So you have spark and fuel, but it's not firing off? Even if you are 180 degrees off, you should get a spit and spudder. Makes me wonder about the carb.
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Old 03-27-2005, 01:21 AM   #12
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Only power to the dizzy when key is turned forward, yes. Not constant power. Double check the timing how?
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Old 03-27-2005, 01:25 AM   #13
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Brand new carb. It worked previously.

Something I left out: every dozen or so turnovers of the starter I hear a ginel spitting sound, sounds almost like air forcing out of something. I haven't been able to locate it yet.
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Old 03-27-2005, 01:30 AM   #14
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Are you sure you have spark coming out of the plugs?
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Old 03-27-2005, 01:32 AM   #15
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I stuck a screwdriver in the plug wire for #4. I held the screwdriver shaft near a ground source and it sparked, then it knocked the living crap out of me when I moved it away. If it's not sparking, then I have a very active imagination
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Old 03-27-2005, 01:35 AM   #16
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LOL, I use a jumper wire that I stick in to the end of the plug wire that is long enough for me to hold and crank the truck at the same time. I got usd to feeling the heartbeat of a Chevy!!! LOL
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Old 03-27-2005, 03:46 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shifty
it sparked, then it knocked the living crap out of me when I moved it away. If it's not sparking, then I have a very active imagination
Gets your attention, don't IT!!! Its one of those self correcting problems; you do it once, you learn, the second time you do it, you are p.o. at yourself.... not sure if anyone has done something like that three times though... the real gitcha is the coil wire when you are in there working and someone wants to turn on the radio... ZAP!!!!

The HEI, it sounds like its not in the right position... it doesn't take much as @ 800 rpm thats 13 up and down motions a second... it is a pain but in the end it'll be worth the effort as long as you don't hurt or break anything else...
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Old 03-27-2005, 05:32 PM   #18
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Sorry to here about your girlfriend, I hope that she is alright.

Did your install new plug wires, or are using old used ones that came with your HEI? If they are a used set check them with a ohm meter, to make sure that they are good.

While trying to start your truck try rotating the dizzy (advancing and retartding) and see if the truck fires.

I hope that this helps.
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Old 03-27-2005, 01:34 AM   #19
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OK first you need to pull the cap on the dizzy and set it aside.

Rotate the engine with your finger in the #1 plug hole. The pressure at top dead center will push out your finger and let out a hiss.

Look at your balancer and verify that your timing mark is at 0 degrees. If it isnt then back your engine up by hand using the fan or a bar.

Now see where your rotor is pointing and mark the outside of distributor at the spot where the rotor is pointing.

Install the cap and verify that one of your plug towers is lined up with the mark you just made(you can turn the dizzy slightly if needed).

This is now you #1 post, start your firing order from that point, working your way around the distributor.

Remember you want the compression to push your finger out hard. You can be 180 out (exhaust stroke) and still feel a push, but it will be weak.

Good Luck with this and your lady.....

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Old 03-27-2005, 01:34 AM   #20
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Will do, skii. It's raining outside here in ATL right now, so I can't go out and check (everyone is asleep too )

screamin - I did exactly that when starting up. I turned the cooling fan until my finger wasn't getting sucked in anymore. I rotated the fan just a hair more until it barely pushed my finger, then noticed the line on the HB was near the 0 mark. So, I finished lining it up to zero and went from there.
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Old 03-27-2005, 01:45 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shifty
Will do, skii. It's raining outside here in ATL right now, so I can't go out and check (everyone is asleep too )

screamin - I did exactly that when starting up. I turned the cooling fan until my finger wasn't getting sucked in anymore. I rotated the fan just a hair more until it barely pushed my finger, then noticed the line on the HB was near the 0 mark. So, I finished lining it up to zero and went from there.

You could be on the exhaust stroke (180 out) the piston is still moving up during this stroke but the exhaust valve will be opening. It will still push your finger just not as much.

Remember tht the cranks spins twice to the cam spinning once, thats why you can have the pointer lined up with 0TDC on the marker and still be 180 degrees (1/2 a revolution) out of time.
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Old 03-27-2005, 01:53 AM   #22
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It's possible I could be out by 180, I guess. Would it just be easier to take the valve cover off and look at it this way? It would only take an extra 10 minutes to do this. I have a spare cork one-piece felpro gasket to replace the existing one.

I hope I haven't messed anything in the engine up from my attempts.
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Old 03-27-2005, 02:03 AM   #23
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Na those sixes are bulletproof. If you pull the valve cover make sure to watch the #1 intake and exhaust valves. Once both valves are closed and the pointer is on 0 there is no room for argument, thats TDC.

Have a good night
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Old 03-27-2005, 02:08 AM   #24
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Quickest way to check for 180 out is to put the #1 wire on the post opposite the one it's on now and wire the dizzy with that as the starting point. If you were 180 out, now your dead on!
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Old 03-27-2005, 02:09 AM   #25
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so ... you're saying ... with my current 153624 setup, swap it to be a 624153?

someone told me a perverse way to remember the firing order on my engine tonight. 15 is too young, 36 is too old, 24 is just right.
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