what's everybody using for switches?

[jlaird]

Lets see pics if you have them?

Oh, and what should you not use. Anything of those switch boxes junk?

[dwcsr]

Switches for ?

[71swb4x4]

Here are mine, these switches are from ART. As you can see I haven't used them yet, hopefully soon though!

[XXL]

Originally Posted by jlaird

Lets see pics if you have them?

I use the same that 71swb4x4 has. The ART solenoids are pretty low current, so just about anything that's (ON)-OFF-(ON) will do the trick.

[pbmcauliffe]

Not really switches per se, but the Easy Street Auto Pilot Digital Controller.

[camaro__thunder]

I use a skull with switches for spikes, pics soon

[bagged69c10]

I just use a regular ole 10 switch box for now cuz it was free. A friend of mine made his out of a DUB.

[Alvin]

I'm attempting to use an early -90's BMW 5 series power window switch. It looks like I'll be able to wire one window to each bag and use the rear window lock-out switch as a dump switch. Still no where even close to having it figured out though.

[XXL]

Originally Posted by Alvin

Still no where even close to having it figured out though.

IIRC, BMW's are simple 3-wire motors, so center pin is voltage in (or ground if that's what you want to throw to your solenoids. Throwing ground is the "perferred" method of switching in most 12-volt installers' eyes). Top pin is the "bottom" output (so 'window down') and bottom pin is top. I believe they're also DPDT, so you'll see a second top, middle, bottom. You don't need to do anything with second set. Grab an ohm meter that has a continuity setting and you can verify functionality in a few seconds.

[67Fleet]

I was thinking about this last night as I was in my bud's S-10 we just bagged. He's got a switch-box. I really don't want to go that route. I'm going to run 4 valves up front, and 2 out back. I don't need side to side, just F/B. Maybe a third switch for pancake? Will I be able to get away with 3 switches, or even 2 if I decide I don't need pancake?

[XXL]

Originally Posted by 67Fleet

I was thinking about this last night as I was in my bud's S-10 we just bagged. He's got a switch-box. I really don't want to go that route. I'm going to run 4 valves up front, and 2 out back. I don't need side to side, just F/B. Maybe a third switch for pancake? Will I be able to get away with 3 switches, or even 2 if I decide I don't need pancake?

You need one (ON)-OFF per valve. Most people use a "two-way" switch (it's really a 3-way, but people tend to think in terms of everything BUT the resting position). So... most people use a (ON)-OFF-(ON) switch, which would control 2 valves... 1 up, 1 down. So... you'd need 3 of these*

BTW, the nomenclature (ON) or (OFF) means momentary on or off. When you release the switch it moves back to a resting position (when you crank your engine, the ke is in an (ON) position. OFF means the switch can rest in this position without holding the button there. So... (ON)-OFF-(ON) means that it rests in the center, but pushing it up or down initiates a temporary ON state.



* Why not go ahead and "do it right" and get the 4th valve pair so you can set up the rear bags on individual controls? You're already spending 90% of the money

[N2TRUX]

Here's my set up in my 77 Cheyenne. One fore each corner, and one to dump em all...

[jlaird]

so a single switch a few of you are using fills AND dumps? ie ON-OFF-ON is really FILL-OFF-DUMP??

[71swb4x4]

Originally Posted by jlaird

so a single switch a few of you are using fills AND dumps? ie ON-OFF-ON is really FILL-OFF-DUMP??

Yes

[N2TRUX]

Mine is dump only. It could be set to fill as well, but that would require another circuit. Since the front and rear fills to different pressures I didn't think a four way fill would be worth the extra time spent, but that's just me...

[XXL]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Mine is dump only.

This would make a great dump button...

[N2TRUX]

Now that's funny...

[Rokcrln]

I am looking for a non electric switch for an ARB for my buggy. It just needs to be 1/4" line that will flip to constant open and when shut off will let the locker side dump air. This is a tube chassie rockcrawler and I want it as simple as possible and that mean no valves or wires were not needed. Any ideas? Here is a shot of the toy.

Thanks for any info.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

I am looking for a non electric switch for an ARB for my buggy. It just needs to be 1/4" line that will flip to constant open and when shut off will let the locker side dump air. ....

Would a manual ball valve be too crude? I have seen them used before in automotive applications and they seem to work....

[71swb4x4]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Would a manual ball valve be too crude? I have seen them used before in automotive applications and they seem to work....

And if you need the ball valve to be remote you could hook up a choke cable or something similar (hood realease cable?) and probably make it work.

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Would a manual ball valve be too crude? I have seen them used before in automotive applications and they seem to work....

Yes it would be! Also you would need two of them so you could release the line psi. I have seen a manual toggle switch for this but now I can not remember where

Kevin
LFD Inc

[bodydropped]

im thinkin of usin a big azz crown bottle for my switch box ive seen somone use a jager bottle for a switch box but i think the crown would be badazz but unno what cops would say thou

[JAMESCHURCH13]

Originally Posted by bodydropped

im thinkin of usin a big azz crown bottle for my switch box ive seen somone use a jager bottle for a switch box but i think the crown would be badazz but unno what cops would say thou

Cops are so over rated.

[camaro__thunder]

here you GO !! http://masterimagecustoms.com/store/manualav.html

[jasonrmorrow]

I went down to NAPA, asked them to pull the Echlin electircal components catalogue...(eck-lin)

and found me a chrome/stainless (on)-off-(on) toggle switch, they were 10 bucks each, need 4, i'll run just them for now, i figger i'll mount em kind of in pairs, both fronts as close as possible, then about an inch of dash space, then the rears as close together again. Then if i need to dump it, just reach across all four, orrrrrrrrr a single dump switch would be nice if i have room where i want to mount them.

Since i'm going to switch the ground i think i'll run a "distribution block" on the frame, so i'll run one 14-16 guage fused wire from the battery to two 4 way or one 8 way if they make em...block on the frame rail, then just have 8 short power wires to run to the valves, then i only need long lengths of 16 gauge to run up to my switches.

I actually enjoy wiring, i do a lot of it at work, from fog lights to dvd headrests to seat heaters and trailer wiring, if you get the right tools and connectors its really fun what you can do with a basic circuit. I just wish i had the hoise at work to tie all the **** on the frame up, i can do that the next day at work though.