72 Chevy C-10,LWB Drive line help, Please

[Ironangel]

I got the bed off to start rockers and cab corners when I realized the carrier bearing was shot. Whats the procedure for getting that bearing off the forward shaft?I get my service manual at the end of the week but have a new bearing assembly.Im just not sure how it comes off the shaft. Thanks!

[airdale94]

They're a press fit. Although not that close if it's rusted on there it could give you some trouble. You could try heating it. Or if you have a press. Or take it to a machine shop.

[Jeffs70]

to take the carrier bearing off, you need to take the center u-joint off from the clips then there is a bolt behind that you should pull and slide the yolk out then the bearing will slip off. I have never had one pressed on. but It might be pressed in there but I would try to pull the u-joint and yolk off first and see what you get into. easier then going to a machine shop and paying when you really dont need too spend the money for something simple

[vegaschevy]

I have done 3 in the past 6 weeks and every single on has been pressed on. Pull them off with a puller, and every new one did nto slide right on the shaft you had to press it on... which is the only way the bearing is going to work. So they have to be a press fit

[eagleuh1]

Doing mine right now. easist way IMO is drop the 4 bolts holding carrier bearing on frame. Seperate the back shaft from front by sliding the yokes apart. Pull front shaft out of tranny. Have pan ready for fluid. You have to seperate 2 halves of housing. Then press or pull slinger/ bearing retainer off then press bearing off the shaft. It helps to soak it with some CRS or rust penetrant over night. They are pressed on At least for a 68 C20. Also, where can you buy a new Carrier bearing exactly like the old. NAPA has some strange looking crap that requires you make a spacer for the mount.

[Ironangel]

Thanks for the responses you guys! I was surprised to find that the old auto parts/machine shop had the carrier bearing on the shelf! Its exactly like the stock bearing and only cost $12! I live in a small farming town in Nebraska and the auto parts store is still a mom and pop owned buisiness. The nearest NAPA is 25 miles away and the nearest city is 100 miles away, I like it like that! Ill be back with more questions and I sure thank you guys for the help! Michael Hill is "Ironangel"

[Ironangel]

Piece of cake! I soaked it in Kroil over night and it came apart with just a little persuasion and 1/2 NF bolt and thrust washer "presses" it on the last 1/4" or so. Thanks for the help all of you! Brakes are next,I get them tomorrow.

[LMN8UR]

Make sure you mark the two shafts so they go back together the same as they were. I had a vibration problem when I put them together 180 degrees out. I didn't think it would matter, but my new bearing only lasted about 6 months. It's been 4 years on my third bearing, and all's happy!

Good Luck!

[Reefmonster]

Is the bolt that holds yolk on Reverse thread??? I am having a hell of a time breaking mine loose, I actually broke my vice trying to get it loose.

[brad_man_72]

all carrier bearings are a press fit, if the old one slides off, the weld in stub needs to be replaced. also if the bolt on yoke has any play in it, both the yoke and stub need to be replaced.

dont put your driveshaft in a vice, dont beat on your driveshaft in a vice, dont crush your yoke when installing or removing ujoints.

if i had to remove a carrier bearing at home i would cut it off, as it is typical for them to be quite stubborn to remove. even when using tools designed for driveline work it is possible to damage a shaft by the forces required to remove a carrier bearing in 1 piece.

[Ironangel]

Originally Posted by brad_man_72

all carrier bearings are a press fit, if the old one slides off, the weld in stub needs to be replaced. also if the bolt on yoke has any play in it, both the yoke and stub need to be replaced.

dont put your driveshaft in a vice, dont beat on your driveshaft in a vice, dont crush your yoke when installing or removing ujoints.

if i had to remove a carrier bearing at home i would cut it off, as it is typical for them to be quite stubborn to remove. even when using tools designed for driveline work it is possible to damage a shaft by the forces required to remove a carrier bearing in 1 piece.

I appreciate the input bradman but my manual describes and illistrates the use of a vise and where to strike the yoke with a hammer to either spread or close yoke tollorance for the u-joint snap rings. The removabe yokes retaining bolt is a 1/2" NF grade 5 bolt with a thrust washer that pushes the the yoke and the bearing back into their original position.

[Ironangel]

Originally Posted by Reefmonster

Is the bolt that holds yolk on Reverse thread??? I am having a hell of a time breaking mine loose, I actually broke my vice trying to get it loose.

No, Its right hand thread.

[Monte Carlo Man]

When my carrier bearing went bad, it also took out the dust shield on the end of the drive shaft. Does anyone know where you can get a new dust shield?
I believe that it was welded to the end of the drive shaft.

To take mine apart, I took both of the universals out and I removed the bolt from the end and then I put a pry bar in both ends and I chained it to a tree and I used a come along to pull the yoke off the end of the drive shaft.

Because the carrier bearing was completely gone, all I had to do was take the remaining part of the bearing off and slide on the new bearing. But because the dust shield was gone, it didn't last very long.

$12 is cheap, I think I paid $40 for one 25 years ago.

[Ironangel]

Originally Posted by Monte Carlo Man

When my carrier bearing went bad, it also took out the dust shield on the end of the drive shaft. Does anyone know where you can get a new dust shield?
I believe that it was welded to the end of the drive shaft.

To take mine apart, I took both of the universals out and I removed the bolt from the end and then I put a pry bar in both ends and I chained it to a tree and I used a come along to pull the yoke off the end of the drive shaft.

Because the carrier bearing was completely gone, all I had to do was take the remaining part of the bearing off and slide on the new bearing. But because the dust shield was gone, it didn't last very long.

$12 is cheap, I think I paid $40 for one 25 years ago.

Im not sure what dust shield your talking about unless its the pinion shaft shield?

[hayhauler71]

Originally Posted by Ironangel

Im not sure what dust shield your talking about unless its the pinion shaft shield?

I believe there was 2 dust shields. You would slide on the dust shield than the bearing than the other dust shield but when the bearing goes out the shields get destroyed.

[Jeffs70]

well hmmm mine wasnt pressed on tight enough to use a puller. now its making me wonder if something was wrong.

[Ironangel]

Originally Posted by Jeffs70

well hmmm mine wasnt pressed on tight enough to use a puller. now its making me wonder if something was wrong.

As long as there is no free play between the spline stub and bearing your fine. Your just lucky thats all.

[Jeffs70]

Originally Posted by Jeffs70

well hmmm mine wasnt pressed on tight enough to use a puller. now its making me wonder if something was wrong.

Originally Posted by Ironangel

As long as there is no free play between the spline stub and bearing your fine. Your just lucky thats all.

Ok awesome Thank you that makes me feel better and not so worried now lol.

[brad_man_72]

carrier bearings will last a long time when the shafts are in good condition and ballanced. even the cheap ones.

dust shields are completely not needed.

i spend about 40 hours a week building and repairing driveshafts for anything from hydrostatic kohler lawnmowers to ride the ducks amphibious vehicles.

[crushermechanic]

before you install the bearing weld the edges of the top flange to the lower. it is just held by spot welds. i had 2 break there before i welded mine and they were spicer bearings.

[hayhauler71]

http://www.iedls.com/bearings.html If you want a heavy duty bearing or do not want to do the job again I recommend one like this.

[Ironangel]

Originally Posted by hayhauler71

http://www.iedls.com/bearings.html If you want a heavy duty bearing or do not want to do the job again I recommend one like this.

Cool site,Thanks Hayhauler. You too LMN8UR,although Ive already made that mistake :sad: Its a fifty/fifty chance at this point. I do plan on having the shafts balanced soon. Heres something I read on a very small piece of paper in the new bearing box;It said to fill the rubber isolater with grease? Has anybody done this, and how???

[Jeffs70]

Originally Posted by hayhauler71

http://www.iedls.com/bearings.html If you want a heavy duty bearing or do not want to do the job again I recommend one like this.

OH man yes I do agree, Do not purchase a cheap bearing, I had this problem with my 72 a few years ago and It just kept going bad at least every few months. Best to get a good bearing and pay for one rather then a bunch of crap thats not worth waisting your time on.