71 K10 - engine swap question

[travisch]

Going to replace the current 350 with a blueprint crate. Has anyone actually replaced the engine leaving the tranny (manual SM465) in the truck?
I read a few posts where people elude to the fact that it can be done but has anyone actually done it?
Easy enough to get the bellhousing on and the clutch alignment tool set but once you drop the engine in how hard is it to get the input shaft to align and slide in completely?
Just trying to avoid pulling the seat, tranny cover, shift levers, driveshafts, transfer case (205) ect, ect.....

[Grumpy old man]

That's the easiest way to do it , That trans and bell housing is very heavy and best left in , pull the hood and lift the engine out , When droping the new one in just have some help and a floor jack under the trans to help line everything back up . check your flywheel and ALWAYS install a new clutch /pressure plate/ and throw out bearing while its apart .

[travisch]

So you leave the bellhousing as well?

[Grumpy old man]

disconnect the battery ,remove the starter and wire tie it out of the way , remove exhaust manifold bolts and tie exhaust out of the way , drain all fluids , remove radiator and shroud , pull the fan , loosen but don't remove tans mount , place floor jack under trans use a piece of ply wood on floor jack to cushion trans . remove bell housing to engine bolts , set up engine lift correctly remove engine mount bolts and lift slowly while pulling forward to have trans shaft pull out of clutch pressure plate slowly don't stress trans shaft that's why the floor jack is under there you can lift trans slightly to aid the process . with a little wiggling it should pull right out .

It's a day job but I've seen guys change out a Chevy engine in a hour and a half .

[travisch]

Awesome. Thanks for the advice!
Now....just need to push the Checkout button on Summit and figure out a way to apologize to the wife.

[geezer#99]

I’ve done it!
Lots of fun though.
Leave the bell on the tranny. Set up your clutch fork with the tob slid onto the bearing retainer.
Leave the tranny in gear so the input shaft doesn’t move.
Bolt the pressure plate and disc to the flywheel.
Use an actual input shaft from a used tranny as an alignment tool. The plastic ones that come in clutch kits are too sloppy.
If it doesn’t want to slide easily togethor have someone depress the clutch pedal. That will make the disc float and easier to slide it togethor.
Don’t forget to check for a pilot bushing in the end of the crank.

[Vintage Windmills]

I agree with Grumpy old Man on his points. I did my 71K20 it last year at this time with that method. Left the SM465 where it was. I had good luck with the plastic alignment tool.

All in all a pretty easy job. Way easier than a Cummins swap lol!

[travisch]

Thanks - New blueprint 350 crate (BP3503CT1), flywheel, intake and misc gaskets on the way. Just need to figure out which clutch I want. Silly to not replace it while I have it apart.
I'll let ya know how it goes.

[travisch]

The swap went well. took about and hour to get the old engine out and a couple to get the new one back in. All in all it was a full day at a slow easy pace.
No surprises. I used the original cast iron exhaust manifolds and everything bolted right up. I re-ran the Wizard on the Holly Sniper and it fired right up.

[Vintage Windmills]

Thanks for the follow up. Wish more people would do that. How do you like the Holly EFI setup overall?

[travisch]

So far I love the Holly. I'm using this truck as the testbed for a 69 camaro with a pretty radical 427 stroked small block that I'm maybe going to put a supercharger on. I've got the carb (Quick Fuel 750) pretty dialed in using an AFR gauge and I'm happy with it but I might be at 5200 feet elevation one hour and 10k plus the next so EFI makes sense.
I had this holly on the previous engine and we had some -23 degree days last week and it was the only vehicle out of three (2001 F25 Powerstroke, 2006 Honda, 1996 Bronco) that would start and it fired right up and ran great.

I know both Holly and Fitech get their fair share of complaints but I believe its simply the learning curve..people don't understand something so they are quick to complain and then when they go for support they really get frustrated if they A. have trouble getting ahold of someone or B. the suggestion doesn't resolve the issue. That and its human nature to lash out (post on public forums) with a problem but people aren't so quick to post the positives or good experiences so you have to take the reviews with a grain of salt.

[hitower]

Travisch,
I have the same exact motor on my Summit wish list. Just reading reviews before I pull the trigger. I’m looking to replace my tired 350 in my 71 K20 with a SM465. Which clutch did you decide to go with?
It’s my summer daily driver, but I want to smoke my tires when the desire is there.
Thanks

[travisch]

Originally Posted by hitower

Travisch,
I have the same exact motor on my Summit wish list. Just reading reviews before I pull the trigger. I’m looking to replace my tired 350 in my 71 K20 with a SM465. Which clutch did you decide to go with?
It’s my summer daily driver, but I want to smoke my tires when the desire is there.
Thanks

I used a 12 inch LuK from NAPA Part #: NCF 1104064. Remember...if you go to a one piece rear main seal block like this one from a 2 piece then you will need a new flywheel as the bolt pattern on the crank is different. I just used Blueprints flywheel.

[57taskforce]

I’ve got a 12” luk in my K20. No complaints.

[hitower]

Thanks for the tips guys. I see my Summit wish list getting bigger everyday....