Cool It Bud

[thirdstreettito]

So in the summer of 11' the truck (The 88)would hit 200* anytime I stopped, even for just a second. Last year it never got hot. This year Im hotting *200 after being stopped for 30+ seconds. What can I do to cool her down? I drive hammer down 24/7 so that wont change. I just flushed the cooling system in February and refilled it with 50/50. The fan almost never speeds up. Should I do electric fans? I hate when the fan speeds up because it gets sluggish. I've been thinking about an aluminum radiator. Thoughts?

[71swb4x4]

200 is just fine. I always thought that anything 190-210 was acceptable. Too cool and it can affect performance, and some say too cool also holds moisture in the oil. Too hot can affect performance too.
Like all the other factors, each engine will get better power, or better gas mileage, out of different temperatures. There is no exact number you can get from the internet, it will depend on your engine.

[wraprail]

The fan speeds up? You must mean when the fan clutch engages. I guess it would speed up......
No reason you would need an aluminum radiator. While they do cool better than copper/brass they cost more and are usually not repairable should you get a hole in the core.
Electric fans are great, they will improve mileage and reduce noise among other benefits.
You will need the fan(s), wiring, relays, and sending unit and/or switch all of which will add to the cost.
Really need some more info.
What does it do when it gets to 200? Does it go higher? Ever?
What is the outside temp when it goes to 200?

What motor?
Have you done anything to the motor that may have leaned the fuel mixture?
Change the spark plugs lately?
Is it running good besides getting hot? Any misfire or rough idling? Vacuum leaks?
You say you flushed the cooling system. Was this done on a machine by a pro or at home with a garden hose?
Kinda sounds like a plugged radiator core.
That is all I can think of
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[thirdstreettito]

It's a stock TBI 350 with single 3" exhaust dumped underneath. Plugs are new and gapped at .035. The system was flushed with a hose not the machine.

When it does it it's at least 85* and it never goes above 200* as far as I remember. It usually just stays at 200* for a minute and goes back down when I start driving.

[tlawre87]

Sounds like your thermostat is a 195 and doing exactly as it should. All my cars that have had 195 stats usually do something to that effect. Considered putting a 180* in it maybe?

[f.monroe]

Find out if there is a thermostat in it and if so what size. It doesn't sound like there is a 195 tstat in it because it would run at 195 constantly. It sounds like its stuck open or gone all together. If there is no thermostat in it it will do exactly what you are describing. The thermos job is to stop the flow of fluid until what's in the radiator can be cooled and then released into the engine. If it never stops flowing it will not be in the radiator long enough to pull heat from the liquid. The fact that it heats and cools so rapidly makes me think its not there or too small(160) or so . If the temp range is below the systems capabilities then it will eventually keep the thermostat open constantly and never let it cycle.
Frank
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[wraprail]

Originally Posted by thirdstreettito

It's a stock TBI 350 with single 3" exhaust dumped underneath. Plugs are new and gapped at .035. The system was flushed with a hose not the machine.

When it does it it's at least 85* and it never goes above 200* as far as I remember. It usually just stays at 200* for a minute and goes back down when I start driving.

If its not going over 200 then I agree with most everyone else. 200 is fine.
You can do electric fan to quiet it down. I replaced my machanical fan and am very happy with it.

Originally Posted by f.monroe

Find out if there is a thermostat in it and if so what size. It doesn't sound like there is a 195 tstat in it because it would run at 195 constantly. It sounds like its stuck open or gone all together. If there is no thermostat in it it will do exactly what you are describing. The thermos job is to stop the flow of fluid until what's in the radiator can be cooled and then released into the engine. If it never stops flowing it will not be in the radiator long enough to pull heat from the liquid. The fact that it heats and cools so rapidly makes me think its not there or too small(160) or so . If the temp range is below the systems capabilities then it will eventually keep the thermostat open constantly and never let it cycle.
Frank

I'm trying to wrap my head around this Frank and frankly i'm having a little trouble. Help me out..
Does the thermostat actually cycle?
If it were cycling with a 195 stat then it would be impossible for the temp to stay at a constant 195.
And if a thermostat cycled wouldn't temp of the coolant inside the engine
climb to very high temps while the stat was closed?
And once those temps started to climb the stat would open anyway.
Plus the way a thermostat works they open slowly as temps heat and close slowly as they cool. Once a thermostat opens I doubt it ever closes till the motor cools off.
It may close a little and restrict the flow some but it never closes. IMHO.
I agree that removing a thermostat can cause some strange temp readings.

Colder

[mopar346]

As mentioned 200* is not a big deal, I believe the average engine runs best at 212*, seems I heard Nascar targets that temp. I know late model electric fans are triggered to come on at the 212 temp, at least they were in early 2000s.

Generically, if it heats up at idle/when not moving it is an air flow issue, ie not enough fan blades, fan clutch not engaging, restricted radiator core (debris), lack of fan shrade, engine compartment too open not channelling the air across the engine (no inner fenderwells).

Just my thoughts.

I know being uncomfortable with a gauge reading even when you know it's fine (rad my resent thread).

[wraprail]

Originally Posted by mopar346

As mentioned 200* is not a big deal, I believe the average engine runs best at 212*, seems I heard Nascar targets that temp. I know late model electric fans are triggered to come on at the 212 temp, at least they were in early 2000s.

Generically, if it heats up at idle/when not moving it is an air flow issue, ie not enough fan blades, fan clutch not engaging, restricted radiator core (debris), lack of fan shrade, engine compartment too open not channelling the air across the engine (no inner fenderwells).

Just my thoughts.

I know being uncomfortable with a gauge reading even when you know it's fine (rad my resent thread).

Sorry forgot this but I must comment that I don't think that our engines depend on air traveling across them, after all they are water cooled and not air cooled.

[INSIDIOUS '86]

212 engine temp in oil is when the water boils out of the oil. That's where oil is designed to reach its designed viscosity.
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[superwade57]

Originally Posted by INSIDIOUS '86

212 engine temp in oil is when the water boils out of the oil. That's where oil is designed to reach its designed viscosity.
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Keep in mind your oil temp is higher than water temp....watching gauges in my semi all day I can yell you water is 210-200 while oil holds closer to the 230-235 range
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[chebyshortbox65]

.35 on the plugs is tight that gap is what points call for newer hei and high output systems call for .45 might look in to it just my .02
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[WIDESIDE72]

Originally Posted by chebyshortbox65

.35 on the plugs is tight that gap is what points call for newer hei and high output systems call for .45 might look in to it just my .02
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X2
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[86c20]

guys a tstat work on water temp in the motor not the rad. that is way it is in the outlet side of the motor not the inlet. now as far as the temps go. 180 carb motors 200 tbi crab. 210ish is like some one said the new motors with the fancey fuel injection.

now i had the same problem on my diesel. this is what i did to see what was wrong. let it get to temp in the drive way when it starts to get hot take a garden hose and spray the back side on the fan to slow it down. mine stoped so the cluthc what junk.

if you have ac then i would deff go to a elc fan as it frees up some power good for when the ac is on and it gets hot. i rec going to a junk yard and geting a fan out of a late 90's tourse then get the relay from a vovle with 2 speed low for cooling motor hi for ac. this is what i am slowly doing to all my trucks/cars

[donut]

I'm with the "if it stays at *200 crowd, don't sweat it". Esp if you're running a *195 stat.

[WIDESIDE72]

200 is nothing to worry about. Newer vehicles are designed to run hotter for emissions/efficiency. I had a 97 c1500 350 vortec and put a 180 degree thermostat and my fuel mileage dropped about 2 mpg, so i put a 195 back in.

You can check your clutch fan with masking tape. Put a strip or two from the blade to the shroud. When you start the engine the tape should hold the fan from spinning. Take it for a spin to heat up the engine to operating temp. Pop the hood and check to see if the tape is broken. If the clutch is engaging, it should easily have broken the masking tape.
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[Rufton]

I agree w/ all the posters about 200F is ok.
I'd be more concerned if it didn't reach 200F.
Based on IR gun readings; my heads run 200 to 215F and I'm happy.
I run 195F t-stat in every engine.
It takes oil about 30 mins to warm up; not easy to drive out moisture w/ short trips.