firewall hei dizzy recess

[blackmopar]

hey guys - looking for an easy idea to clear fireall for adding an hei distributor - i remember seeing somewhere a company that made a small formed sheetmetal piece that you could cutout and rivet into your firewall - i cant seem to find anymore though.
Id like to not fabricate something as I already have a bunch of fabbrication/work to getting this on the road
thanks for any suggestions

[Sicboy]

Originally Posted by blackmopar

hey guys - looking for an easy idea to clear fireall for adding an hei distributor - i remember seeing somewhere a company that made a small formed sheetmetal piece that you could cutout and rivet into your firewall - i cant seem to find anymore though.
Id like to not fabricate something as I already have a bunch of fabbrication/work to getting this on the road
thanks for any suggestions

A friend pounded his firewall, about 3/8", to clear the HEI. I did the same, but still waitin on the engine rebuild to be done. Here's a couple pics my buddy sent me:

[ChiefRocka]

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Didn't have to do a dam thing on my old truck..plenty of space and then some

[Captainfab]

I've never had any clearance issues with an HEI either.

[blackmopar]

hmmm seems like mine will be tight - but im on the back frame rails perch holes also - maybe ill just move it forward a bit

[Captainfab]

That is the stock location for all V8 engines in the '63-'66 years. If you want to move yours to the forward holes, a set of SB mounts for the '67-'72's will be a bolt in.

Originally Posted by blackmopar

hmmm seems like mine will be tight - but im on the back frame rails perch holes also - maybe ill just move it forward a bit

[blackmopar]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

That is the stock location for all V8 engines in the '63-'66 years. If you want to move yours to the forward holes, a set of SB mounts for the '67-'72's will be a bolt in.

thanks captain for the part info - from what all are saying, I shouldnt have to but handy in case I do.

Sean

[Bugeyev8]

Originally Posted by blackmopar

hmmm seems like mine will be tight - but im on the back frame rails perch holes also - maybe ill just move it forward a bit

just use a small HEI dist...junkyards are full of them

[markeb01]

Originally Posted by ChiefRocka

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Didn't have to do a dam thing on my old truck..plenty of space and then some

Is that Zolatone on the engine compartment - and if so, how did it hold up. Love the color combination.

[ChiefRocka]

That stuff held up GREAT !! Dropped tools, pressure washer...it held up very well !!

Check out my old build thread for a picture of what I exactly used....you'll be surprised !!

[JRBECK64]

Originally Posted by markeb01

Is that Zolatone on the engine compartment - and if so, how did it hold up. Love the color combination.

Now that is one great looking Engine Plant. My hats off to you. Is that the same stuff that a lot of old cars have in the trunk for covering? Did you have to clear coat over it when you were done?
JRBECK64

[ChiefRocka]

I cleared it with a 'satin' clear...but didn't have to....

I actually, liked it better without the clear on it.

I think the 'Rock-a-Chief' is going to get the same treatment.

[Imperial Kustom]

I didn't clearance my firewall either and I am also on the back holes for the mounts. The frame is also Z'd three inches. It is tight, but livable!

[ruffrida2005]

I didn't have to do anything to mine either. I have zolatone in the bed of my truck, and after 10 plus years or about then. it's still holding up. some parts are peeling.

[jonzcustomshop]

and if you want to cut your firewall, swing by a target or walmart and look at thier cake pans, one for a pound cake might be just about the right size....

[LostMy65]

Okay, maybe this was the better thread to post in.

Just started to drop the 350 from the donor 79 into my 66, and the distributor is way too tight against the firewall.

I wonder if the 79 distributor is taller than the ones you guys are using.

[BarnFind]

As said in earlier posts, I used 67-72 motor stands which moved the motor forward about 2 inches. Not only does this help with HEI clearance but, it also gets the fan closer to the radiator when using a short water pump.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by BarnFind

As said in earlier posts, I used 67-72 motor stands which moved the motor forward about 2 inches. Not only does this help with HEI clearance but, it also gets the fan closer to the radiator when using a short water pump.

I see.

I'm guessing those of you who are sliding your motor forward 2" have an auto.
The Manual Trans won't just easily slide forward like the auto tranny.
We would have to move the crossmember that supports the bellhousing.
And then there's also the clutch linkage.

[BarnFind]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

I see.

I'm guessing those of you who are sliding your motor forward 2" have an auto.

This is true, much more involved for the stick shift guys. Its definitely not a "bolt in and go" modification even for the automatics. Sean

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

The Manual Trans won't just easily slide forward like the auto tranny.
We would have to move the crossmember that supports the bellhousing.
And then there's also the clutch linkage.

pic added:


.
Right now I'm just trying to get back up and running.
Maybe this summer, when I plan on lifting the cab off to do some underside work, maybe then I'll modify the bellhousing support and clutch linkage so as to move my perches forward to the other two holes:
.



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Thank you everyone for the help.

[blackmopar]

barnfind, that is excellent clearance - Ive got mine installed with factory perches in the back slots - it fits but its tight and right now with my dizzy clock position i dont have any further room to spin it ccw (its off a notch so really this shouldnt actually be a problem) but saying to make the point that in oe location an hei is tight as hell on my ride

[BarnFind]

The 67-72 perches look like the 60-66 but, have a little tighter bend at the bottom where they bolt to the cross member. These are an easy solution and will resolve a couple of issues, not to mention put the engine in the middle of the engine compartment. Sean

[blackmopar]

heres a stupid question - why cant you just relocate the 63-66 perches to the forward frame holes and redrill bolt holes in the crossmember?

as my pic shows im up against the wall right now - which means no addtioanl CCw rotation is possibly

other than modifying my exhaust hangers, I dont see what else would be required to do to move forward with an auto (not using oe shift linkage)

[BarnFind]

Originally Posted by blackmopar

heres a stupid question - why cant you just relocate the 63-66 perches to the forward frame holes and redrill bolt holes in the crossmember?

other than modifying my exhaust hangers, I dont see what else would be required to do to move forward with an auto (not using oe shift linkage)

There are a few mods to make this work. Like I said before, its not a bolt in and go. First off the throttle linkage will need to be lengthened, poss. different spacers on fan, exhaust for sure, and lets not forget the driveshaft. The holes in the crossmember are the easy part, they are already there. Sean

[Captainfab]

One problem with moving the bellhousing crossmember forward, is that it will raise the crossmember as it comes forward. This is due to the upward angle of the frame in that area. This will change the angle of the engine, which in turn changes the angle of the trans output. This can cause driveshaft vibrations unless the pinion angle is adjusted accordingly.

Also I don't recall there being another set of holes in the frame to mount the bellhousing crossmember farther forward. That may be the case on the '67-'72 frames, but not on the '63-'66 frames.