Changing a clutch - questions!!

[JoetheMobster]

Hey guys,

well the inevitable has started to happen, my clutch is slipping, and I need to get it replaced. Given, i've only checked with one place so far, but they quoted $817.00 (Cdn dollars) and that included a new clutch, machining work, and approx 5 hours labor. Does that sound about right? The guy was laughing and saying that they don't usually change clutches on many 71's! Hey can't remember if it has a crossmember so he factored that into the price quote above.

I was quoted a price of 275.00 (Cdn) for the clutch parts only, from a parts store, but have never changed a clutch. Christ, $817.00 is more that I paid for the whole truck, so I'm almost ready to push the sucker into the lake!! Especially with these gas prices.

[68w/sbc406]

i was quoted 450 (US) for mine. i had never changed one before either, i just read the book and got an extra set of hands. the 3 speed would probably be alot easier than a 4 speed just cause of the weight factor.
edith yeah i had 130 in parts too

[shifty]

My 3spd (for a 10" clutch, inline 6) cost $160 for pressure plate, clutch, bearing and everything else. Took me about 1 hour to install with two friends and a cherry picker to pull the engine. I don't know if it's normal to need to pull the engine, but I had to pull it anyways, so ...

I don't know what the 350 is like, so don't listen to me

[68w/sbc406]

but how long did it take to pull the engine??? it would be easier to do from underneath. hope its not lowered

[JoetheMobster]

No, my truck is not lowered, but does sit low enough that dropping the tranny might be tricky.

[shifty]

Originally Posted by 68w/sbc406

but how long did it take to pull the engine???

~20 minutes. Would have been faster, but took the radiator and oil a good 10 minutes to drain, even with the caps off.

[68w/sbc406]

the 3 speeds are alot lighter than a 4 speed. i had to use a jack to lower it down. you might be able to let the 3 speed down on your chest then on the ground

[68w/sbc406]

with the hood on?

[shifty]

Originally Posted by 68w/sbc406

with the hood on?

Had to remove. 4 x 9/16" bolts, easy task for three guys

[69 Short Fleet]

Joe, What kind of machining do they have to do? Which shop did you bring it to? Mine has to be replaced pretty soon as well, Doug

Forget about the machining ? I was thinking of something else.

[JoetheMobster]

Originally Posted by 69 Short Fleet

Joe, What kind of machining do they have to do?....

Just as 68w/sbc406 said, resurfacing the flywheel.

[JoetheMobster]

well holy crap guys, thanks for all the help!!! The above post was made without even finishing reading the whole post.

After reading all of your posts, I might just do it myself.

again, thanks

[68w/sbc406]

you should only have to have the flywheel surfaced

[jcueckert13]

changing a clutch on one of those is easy as hell. i would rather do 20 of them in place of the one in my s10. in reality the fly wheel only needs to be machined if there are heat marks on the fly wheel but for the most part you can get away with roughing up the surface with some sand paper and bolting it back on

[passthebuck]

I changed my clutch myself last summer & it was easy & cheap - I got a 12" (i know I dont need a 12" but an 11" clutch was 160 so for 15 more bucks I got a killer clutch) OEM clutch (throwoutbearing, friction disc, pressureplate & alignment tool) for diesel GMC's for 175CDN from a local clutch shop & they ground my flywheel for that too, but it took 2 days & while I was there, I changed the rear main seal as well. I have a L-6 & a three-on-the-tree. steps are roughly as follows:

driveshaft out

unhook speedo & shifter & tranny out

remove dustcover from bottom of bellhousing & remove ballstud for clutchfork

unbolt pressureplate from flywheel & drop it & the friction disc out

unbolt the flywheel & get it ground at a clutch place

install is reverse but you gotta have a pilotshaft to hold the friction disc inplace while you evenly tightenup the pressureplate

install clutchfork on ballstud & install throwout bearing

the hardest part is getting the transmission back onto the bellhousing & into the frictiondisc & the pilotbearing.. I bought the two longest bolts in the same thread as the bolts that hold the trans on & i threaded them into the upper holes. this gave me a "rail" to slide the trans home on.

reinstall dustcover, hook up shifter, speedo & driveshaft.

oh ya, I had no jack so it was all muskle!

[jhwkns]

It's not that tough of a job, but if you could get someone to help you that has a little experience would be good. There is no crossmember, and the bell housing doesn't have to be removed from the engine block. If the transmission is slid back from the bell housing the clutch can be removed from the bottom.

After you're up on jackstands, and the battery's disconnected you'll have to remove the starter, and dustcover. Next disconnect the carrier bearing, then remove the driveshaft from the rear end. Mark it so that it will go back together exactly the same, and wrap tape around the U-joint so that it doesn't come apart. disconnect the shift linkage. Don't lose the clips and springs. You'll probably find some broken bushings. The plastic is crap so replace them all with bronze. The ones I use are Mr. Gasket. They come with new springs and clips too. Remove the speedo cable. Disconnect the clutch linkage.

At this point the trans is ready to come out. after removing the four transmission bolts it can be slid back. A transmission jack comes in really handy, but the armstrong method also works well. I leave the driveshaft in the tranny just because it makes less of a mess. With the trans moved back slide off the throwout bearing, and snap the arm off of the ball pivot. remove the six bolts holding the pressure plate to the flywheel, and the whole assembly will slip out the bottom.

Carefully inspect the flywheel. Be aware of hot spots, and tiny cracks. If you don't like the look of yours consider having it turned, or buying a remanufactured unit. Your clutch kit should come with a new pilot bushing, clutch disk, release bearing, and pressure plate You will need a clutch alignment tool. The clutch kit I bought the other day came with one. Try to keep your greasy by now hands off the clutch contact surfaces. removing the pilot bushing requires a special tool. I don't know what it's like in the great white north, but the chain stores have loaners here.

When you re-assemble be certain to lube everything. Take special care in making sure the disk is aligned properly.

Good Luck

[powell72]

If it helps you to see instead of explain, there is an article on it in this months issue of Classic trucks.

[shifty]

Originally Posted by powell72

If it helps you to see instead of explain, there is an article on it in this months issue of Classic trucks.

Is that the issue with the black '69 C-10? If so, I can scan the article and post it here.

[Huck]

If it's an original 4 speed, shop around for a better price as doing it yourself without a lift of transmission jack can be a PITA. A 3 speed is really a simple easy deal and one you can tackle. Shouldn't take but a couple of hours and is straight forward. The only reason I say the 4 speed is a PITA is because it is one heavy SOB and not fun to do as it doesn't balance on a jack easy, you got to pull the shifter, and realigning it to the disc can be a major effort if doing your self. Would think you should be able to get a done price for around $400. Parts should be under $150.

[Johnny05]

It's not to difficult to do and when I was younger seemed like I was doing at least 1 a week with no jack! Nowadays if I can avoid it I will... when I got my truck it needed a clutch and I was quoted ~$700.00 ! BUT the "mechanic" told me that was a rough estimate and most likely it would be more ! He told me parts alone were $400.00...
I checked and the most expensive NEW parts were only $180.00 retail so I got to thinkin(ouch!)...
I plan on keeping my truck forever sooooooooo... now it's an automatic! I bought a TH 350 for less than $300.00 built to my specs with a converter.

Any how if you are up for it it's not bad and a good learning experience. Even if it's the first time you've done it as long as you have the tools and ambition take a weekend and give it a shot. Shop around for parts and for what it cost go ahead and get the flywheel machined since it'll save you "guessing" the condition it's in.

[Gary Lee]

while you have the tranny out replace the rear seal of the tranny and put in new fluid... 305 yrs old I am pretty sure they'll need to be replaced... BTW- as said earlier if the plate looks good roughing it up would be enuff

Good luck...3 spd weighs about 75 pounds so its an easier one to do...

[Perchjerker]

Job is easy, you can "bench press" the 3 speed on and off of the bell housing. If you find that you cannot get the tranny back in after changing the clutch and pressure plate, have a freind go inside the cab and mash on the clutch pedal. Worked for me.

[jcueckert13]

the 4 speed isnt that hard either. it is harder to lift but its pretty much the same ****

[70 shorty]

Shifty, no it's the May issue. It may not be on the shelves yet, I just got it in the mail I think last week. It's an article on their in house I think 68, switching from a 3 on the tree to floor shift and touches on clutch replacement also.

[krue]

Here's a tip for any tranny install. Buy two long starter bolts and sut the heads off, grind a flat surface (something for pliers to grip) and screw them into the bottom bellhousing bolt holes. It's a lot easier to stab the tranny onto these two bolts and you don't have to hold it up while you start a bolt.