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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Trabuco Canyon, CA
Posts: 173
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Rear lowering spring question
Alright I traded some tool over the weekend for a stock seat and some 3" rear lowering springs. Now I got them in and only noticed about a 1" drop... looked in LMC at the stock stance which says 34" from ground to top of fender well, I measured mine at 28 3/4 with 31" tires. So did I possible already had a 2" drop in? Can anyone measure the un-sprung height of a stock spring? I'm so confused....
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1964 Chevy C10 a.k.a. Julie Ann H.E.I. cause its better to be pointless |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Denton, Texas
Posts: 356
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Re: Rear lowering spring question
I bet your stock springs were sagging some after 45 years. Its common to not notice as much difference as you'd expect when you're replacing the stocks springs with drop springs.
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Andrew '69 C-20(292, 4-speed) Retired Daily Driver '64 C-10(250, 3-speed) Fixerupper '97 F*rd Mustang GT(4.6L, 5-speed) Daily Driver If I only wanted two pedals I'd have bought a bicycle.
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 531
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Re: Rear lowering spring question
I think the LMC catalog shows stock height from the ground to the center of the rear fender should be 34". MXmaniac is right on. Your springs were probably already sagging 2" from the weight of hauling who knows what over the last half century.
So you didn't get as much drop as you wanted, right? You can add some lowering blocks to get a little more. It's cheap, easy, and as long as you don't go more than 3", you shouldn't have any clearance issues.
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"I never apologize. I'm sorry, but that's just the way I am." - Homer J. Simpson 1955 2nd Series Chevy "King Of Trucks" |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Trabuco Canyon, CA
Posts: 173
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Re: Rear lowering spring question
I was lookin at them and the top half of the coils are closer together then the bottom half, dont think it came like that so it either sagged or maybe the original owner who customized it first gave it an old school drop by heating the coils and compressing them... heard of that being done back in the day before drop kits were readily available. I only think this because the front springs have been cut to achieve a drop so it would make sense once I think about it.
And no i didn't get the drop I thought I would but I traded for some unused tools so no real loss, pretty much got them just to see, and I didnt mind the height before so I'll keep it as is and maybe I'll have a better ride feel with unmodified/sagged springs(taking the bright side)
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1964 Chevy C10 a.k.a. Julie Ann H.E.I. cause its better to be pointless |
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#5 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Trabuco Canyon, CA
Posts: 173
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Re: Rear lowering spring question
Quote:
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1964 Chevy C10 a.k.a. Julie Ann H.E.I. cause its better to be pointless |
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#6 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 531
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Re: Rear lowering spring question
Quote:
Another way to explain it is lift blocks will push the axle away from the frame/body while lowering blocks will push the axle closer to the frame/body. They've been doing it with blocks and mini trucks for years and years.
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"I never apologize. I'm sorry, but that's just the way I am." - Homer J. Simpson 1955 2nd Series Chevy "King Of Trucks" Last edited by terd ferguson; 08-24-2009 at 11:40 PM. |
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#7 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Trabuco Canyon, CA
Posts: 173
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Re: Rear lowering spring question
Quote:
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1964 Chevy C10 a.k.a. Julie Ann H.E.I. cause its better to be pointless |
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