Bolt patterns for 65-75 chevy truck frames

[MercadesCage]

So I'm looking into building a 65-69 chevy truck long bed and I was wondering if I could use a newer frame without having to over mod anything.

What year bolt patterns match up? I like the look of the 65, not willing to keep a 75 or later cab.

[Tx Firefighter]

Cabs interchange from 63-66, 67-72 and 73 and newer. The cab will only bolt to their respective era frame. Anything beyond those require building new cab mounts to fit.

[MercadesCage]

How hard is it to fab the frame mounts? Or can you buy them?

Your photo is awesome.
"I'm gonna have to ask you to come in on Sunday as well."

[Tx Firefighter]

I can't answer your question from any first hand experience on building mounts for one to the other. It looks to me from crawling under some stuff around here that you could likely remove the rivets and transfer the mounts to the other frame and bolt them in place. You'd have to figure out where they go exactly though, and drill your own holes.

Send a PM to Scoti about this. Give him a link to this thread. His current 64 truck is on a later frame so I know he knows the best method.

[MercadesCage]

Thanks

[57larry]

it would be easier to use the respective frame and upgrade the suspension to 5 lugs

[Captainfab]

The '63-'66 body's can be mounted onto the '67-'72 frames with minimal changes. The rear cab mount on the '67-'72 frames are a little different, the radiator crossmember utilized in the '63-'66's is not there on the '67-'72, and the front frame horns for the bumper are different. Scoti may know if other issues.

[SCOTI]

I agree w/the suggestion of swapping the later suspension & discs to earlier frame if @ all possible. Much easier in my honest opinion....

If that's not an option, the 63-72 frames are similar enough that the swap is fairly easy. As mentioned the rear cab mounts need spacers or to be raised (1" if I remember correctly). The radiator core support needs to be moved forward slightly & up (or use spacers again). A new radiator mount will need to be fabbed. The front frame horns won't allow a bolt-on swap for the bumper (I made brackets from another set of frame horns & steel plate so the bumper could be adjusted if needed). The bed is pretty much a direct swap.

The 73-up frame could also prob be used but again the mounts would require tweaking (even more vs. a 67-72 frame). I have not personally done this swap so I can't offer specifics.

[gkesseru]

I have just moved the entire front suspension from an 81 Step to a 68 and have both frames to compare. No problem except for some drilling and hole widening. The 68 frame is 1/4 inches wider in the front, but a 5 pound hammer "eased" it into place. Having a couple long tapered punches really helped align the holes. As far as swapping cabs, that would be really hard, since the earlier frame has a lowered section where the cab sits. On the 67-72 frame, the cab part of the frame sits about 3 inches lower than the bed part of the frame. Also the later cab mounts are inboard to make room for the externally mounted gas tank. The 73-on frames are level in the middle so the older cab and bed won't align on the newer frames. You can swap a 4X4 by moving cab mounts, since putting 3 inch risers won't look too bad on a 4X4.

[MercadesCage]

Maybe in the long run it'd be better for me just to collect the parts I need from closer years and build my frankentruck that way.

Only reason for asking was I had found a 76 frame in nice cond. and it came with disk brakes and a 12 bolt rear. The conversion kit from drum to disk is pricey, and so is the rear end gears if the truck I find in the future doesn't have them.
Seeing as how this will be my first truck, probably easier to run all 65-67 gear.
Thanks all.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by MercadesCage

Maybe in the long run it'd be better for me just to collect the parts I need from closer years and build my frankentruck that way.

Only reason for asking was I had found a 76 frame in nice cond. and it came with disk brakes and a 12 bolt rear. The conversion kit from drum to disk is pricey, and so is the rear end gears if the truck I find in the future doesn't have them.
Seeing as how this will be my first truck, probably easier to run all 65-67 gear.
Thanks all.

All the 76 stuff will swap directly to the earlier frame much easier than trying to fab mounts & re-figure brackets etc.

The spindles, a-arms, & disc brake parts can all be re-used on the 63-66. The entire front crossmember can even be swapped as a unit. The power steering requires an adapter bracket to work on the earlier (pre-67) frames but it's a common swap (check out board member CaptainFabs brackets).

The 76 rear-axle/housing needs the original leaf brackets removed (if you're swapping to a coil equipped truck) & new swap brackets welded on (check ECE for the rear end swap brackets). After that, you'll need a long Panhard bar kit from Porterbuilt Streetrods, Early Classic Enterprises, or Classic Performance Products since the newer rear housing won't have the required mount (it could be cut off the pre-67 rear-axle/housing if done carefully).

[gkesseru]

I made a panhard bracket that slips between the right lower shock mount and the U-bolt axle mount, made from some old bumper bars. I then cut the old panhard bar in half and extended it with a 24 X 3/4" black iron pipe welded over the bar pieces. Saved about $130-150. Not hard if you can weld. For the bar extension I first cut the threads off the ends of the pipe, cut four 1 1/2" slits in the ends of the pipe and then hammered it tight around the bars (which are only about 5/8), then welded into one assembly.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by gkesseru

I made a panhard bracket that slips between the right lower shock mount and the U-bolt axle mount, made from some old bumper bars. I then cut the old panhard bar in half and extended it with a 24 X 3/4" black iron pipe welded over the bar pieces. Saved about $130-150. Not hard if you can weld. For the bar extension I first cut the threads off the ends of the pipe, cut four 1 1/2" slits in the ends of the pipe and then hammered it tight around the bars (which are only about 5/8), then welded into one assembly.

You can also make a 'long' bar by using 2 original 'short' bars. Cut one end of of each bar @ the approx length needed (about 16" each), cut threads into the ends of the bars (LH/RH), use a tie-rod connecting sleeve (or a piece of tapped pipe) for connecting the 2 ends & adjustments.

[MercadesCage]

While I have your ears, what do you know about POR15? My brother is finishing up his project Nova and I'd like to buy him a can for his birthday.
Is it good stuff?
Worth the green?

[SCOTI]

Some guys love it, some not so much. I tried because my friends have used it w/very nice results (n2billet & Tx Firefighter both did their engines w/the stuff & they looked GREAT!).

I used it on my 350 block w/good results. I did some aluminum stuff that was going to top it off & it didn't work worth a crap. I wound up getting that stuff powder-coated.

[MercadesCage]

Did you leave the metal rough before using it? Or did you clean and sand it down, I get mixed messages from other sites about how to prep the body before painting it with the stuff.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by MercadesCage

Did you leave the metal rough before using it? Or did you clean and sand it down, I get mixed messages from other sites about how to prep the body before painting it with the stuff.

Cleaned & prepped. I do not believe the BS/hype about 'over-prepping' the substrate causing sealing or application issues. It worked for the iron engine block & heads & would prob do as well for the chassis stuff.

[michael bustamante]

I helped a friend put a 62 body on a 79 frame and it required some major fab work for all body mounts including rebuilding the rad support. It came out very nice though and worth the upgrade