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#1 |
Back from the Dead
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Salem, Oregon
Posts: 522
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Bagging the 72'?
OK guys, I'm really getting serious about doing this. The only problem is I'm in Highschool, So i'm building on a High school budget...
I'm not really wanting to lay frame, just have the adjustablity and give it a good drop when I want. Heres what I need to know, since this will be stretched out over a long time, what modifications should be done first? I was thinking a C-notch would be best, but where can I find one? I would prefer a bolt on style as my Welding skills arent amazing and I want to keep costs down. Also for you guys that have done this before what parts did you need(parts list would be great). I've heard you can do it a lot cheaper by piecing it together. Pics would be great too. As you can probably tell, I'm a newbie to this stuff...I'll attach a picture of where I'm at right now...appreciate any help. Heres a few ideas I've got... http://www.classicperform.com/tech_a...ch/c-notch.htm http://www.classicperform.com/produc...-Track-Bar.htm http://www.classicperform.com/produc...ension-Kit.htm Thanks, Kenny
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The only Carb that matters to me is the one under my hood! Salem, Oregon Last edited by PrimeredThunder; 04-29-2003 at 11:48 AM. |
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#2 |
Back from the Dead
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Salem, Oregon
Posts: 522
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Heres the picture...
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The only Carb that matters to me is the one under my hood! Salem, Oregon |
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#3 |
Seņor Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Edge of the world
Posts: 5,367
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Air bags are a mostly bolt-in process these days. Take a look at Air Ride Technologies for an absolutely superb kit that has everything you'll need. I do recommend you go with more than 3 gallons of air tank and the requisite larger compressor to support a larger tank.
If you want to do it in parts, you can get all the bags in and fill them with schrader valves (like bicycle tubes have) until you can afford the air system. Then get a 2-way air valve setup, which will give you front to rear control, then expand that to 4-way so you get 4 corner control. You'll want to make the jump to 4-way fairly soon after 2-way as the truck will tend to lean a lot when going around corners because the air squishes from one side to the other in a turn-- the 4-way will fix this problem. Also, do a search on this site for posts from Slammed67, me, and others as this topic has been discussed quite a bit... so there's lots of good info out there. Kenneth
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#4 |
Tasty Cakes!
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 2,112
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Wow, Kenny, that's a beautiful truck!! I agree w/XXL, go w/the Air Ride Tech. set-up. They've done all of the hard work for you. If you don't have all of the money right away, I would wait until you do. Slowly building up a system might allow you to learn more about bagging, but I don't think you'll be happy until you have a full 4-way set-up. Just my $.02!
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I'm a little ![]() ![]() Ground beef: A cow with no legs. ---------------- '66 Chevy SWB "Penny" '67 Chevy Big Window SWB- aka "Pearl" '72 Burb- "Betty" "It's not a hearse dammit" '99 Chevy Ext. cab Silverado |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 2,144
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that bolt in notch you posted looks kinda wimpy. mine and all the others i've seen use alot more bolts. mine use 12, 1/2 bolts, compared what looks like 4 they are using. mine is on an 84, but a frame is a frame, just dosent' look very strong compared to mine.
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'51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works '05 1500 Crew Cab RIP '84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker '80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's |
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#6 |
Progress = 0%
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 2,108
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Low 84 - I have that CPP c-notch on my truck and it is pretty strong. There are actually 4 more bolts that are on the bottom of the notch that aren't visible in the picture.
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Jason - '67 GMC swb | '57 Bel-Air 4dr hardtop | '56 210 4dr Wagon | 2000 GMC Sierra |
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#7 | |
Seņor Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Edge of the world
Posts: 5,367
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Quote:
And now, back to your regularly scheduled program.
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#8 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 2,144
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Quote:
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'51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works '05 1500 Crew Cab RIP '84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker '80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's |
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#9 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: over yonder
Posts: 14,270
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in the spirit of correcting others ... its metallurgy ...
just messin' with ya ... ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#10 |
i love summertime
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Kelowna BC
Posts: 4,303
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shane, ya beat me to it! haha and i dont usually spell that great but i just finished taking metallurgy last month at the end of my welding course
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1967 shortbox stepside Chevy, 365 hp 327, th400. GLOVE BOX LIGHTS FORSALE, click link for info http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=273724 |
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#11 | |
Seņor Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Edge of the world
Posts: 5,367
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Quote:
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#12 |
Back from the Dead
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Salem, Oregon
Posts: 522
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Thanks for all the help guys, I appreciate it. I'll probably do a 2-way setup for simplicity and to keep costs down for now, I know I can always upgrade it later. So if I were to go with Air Ride tech's kit, what else do i need? Where is the best place to pick-up the compressor, valves, tank etc for a god price? Also if anyone has any pictures of there setups that would be great.
Thanks, Kenny
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The only Carb that matters to me is the one under my hood! Salem, Oregon |
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#13 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: jefferson city, mo
Posts: 1,364
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heres the air ride tech kit, i wouldnt buy a kit, now that ive learned a little about air setups its much cheaper to build your own.
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#14 | |
Seņor Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Edge of the world
Posts: 5,367
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Quote:
Kenneth
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#15 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: jefferson city, mo
Posts: 1,364
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i agree, sometimes you pay extra but its worth it for the service, i also have the art valves, and if i ever have a problem( or get this thing on the road) i hope to get great service from them also. I think the brackets can be made at home, tanks you can get where ever, bags everyone sells, valves are the main thing you want to be careful about buying.
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#16 | |
Seņor Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Edge of the world
Posts: 5,367
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Quote:
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#17 |
Back from the Dead
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Salem, Oregon
Posts: 522
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This is great guys, like i said, really appreciate all the help you've given me. I'm probably going to piece this system together and try to make it as cheap as possible for me. I have access to get some SMC 3/8 valves for cheap as well as a Viair 450 compressor. How much drop can i expect if I use say a 2" notch with 2" blocks in the rear and bags and brackets up front? I might run into exhaust diffucuties and clearances since i have full-length headers and 2.5" tubes that are mounted under the frame...Any more pics of setups you guys are running as well as where you mounted all your valves, compressors and tanks etc would be great. Maybe someone could photochop that picture of my truck from teh beginiing of teh post to show me what kind of drop I can expect?
Thanks, Kenny
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The only Carb that matters to me is the one under my hood! Salem, Oregon |
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#18 |
I Love This Stuff!
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Posts: 739
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Sorry to hijack this thread but those pictures bring up another question about the rear bag brackets. If you mount the bags in the factory spring location how hard is it to access the mounting bolts and air fitting on the top of the bag. For example lost wages frame is covered up by that crossmember, so how hard is it to install and tighten down the bag and the air fitting. recently I've been thinking about having the bag mounts a little inboard so that everything is accesable. Any help would be appreciated!
Thanks Jared
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My Rides 1967 C10 In Pieces for now ![]() 1985 Ford B700 SourPuss Bus - BIG BLUE 2003 Silverado CITY WORKER YELLOW!! |
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#19 |
turnin wrenches
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: my garage
Posts: 263
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ok here's my $.02 worth........if you are gonna bag the truck, go with air ride technologies kit!! i have a 2000 s-10 that had one of their original 4-link rear and front bag kits............i had lots of problems for the first year due to the fact that the installer is a FREAKIN IDIOT. i would have liked to have taken his welder to his butt cheeks to show him what a true weld looks like......BUt since he was already full of sh*t i decided against it............however anytime i ever had a problem with a part, Tony from air ride would warranty the defective part or worn out part, NO QUESTIONS ASKED!!! that earned my repeat business! however DG CAR AUDIO in jacksonville florida completely sux and will only receive what is coming to them!!
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"three can keep a secret if two are dead" -unknown hell's angel- D.M.C. -FF- 68 SWB full frame off (project ol skool) 2000 s-10 formally bagged but now my daily driver... |
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#20 |
Flamin' Bass
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Galloway, NJ, US
Posts: 315
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I went with AirLift and got the front, rear and air control system. Very pricy, but good quality and complete. Installed easy, too.
My only concern right now is the unusual location of the rear bag mounts. (see image top view, below) They are located about 6" OUTBOARD on the trailing arm. I have junkyard 225/75X15 tires on the rear and have only about 3/4" clearence between the tire and the outer edge of the lower bag mount. I'd really like to go a bit wider (245-255/45X20) back there and right now, it doesn't look promising. My first thought was to drill a few holes in the mount, closer inboard, and hack off the outer 2" of the mount. This will give me a bit more room. But, I ask myself, why should I have to do this???? I asked AirLift, but did not get a response that explained why they were in this location. I'll be heading to the tire place in a few weeks; maybe it'll all work out??
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Rick Olson /nosto/ Galloway, NJ Pics : http://community.webshots.com/user/nosto53 1972 Triumph TR6 - full resto, now with a Toyota 5-speed 1975 F**D F-100 - rusty, but reliable 1982 HD XLH-1000 1967 C-10, shortstep, 350/M21 4spd, nitrogen tank fills fast bags on 4 corners, Toyo 255/45X20s on American Eagle 221 20X8s, shaved locks and handles, antenna, fuel filler, tiny C-notch, rear fuel tank, long headers, Edelbrock, worn 600 Holley, Checkmate flush hard cover, rear pan, custom LED taillights - painted it, too! But don't like it so I'm gonna do it again!! |
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#21 |
I Love This Stuff!
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Posts: 739
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I thought Air lifts brackets were supposed to mount the bags inboard, is it possible to swap the driverside and pass side around?
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My Rides 1967 C10 In Pieces for now ![]() 1985 Ford B700 SourPuss Bus - BIG BLUE 2003 Silverado CITY WORKER YELLOW!! |
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#22 |
Progress = 0%
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 2,108
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No, I'm pretty sure they are designed to be mounted as shown in the picture. Besides the price, that's another reason why I decided not to buy that kit.
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Jason - '67 GMC swb | '57 Bel-Air 4dr hardtop | '56 210 4dr Wagon | 2000 GMC Sierra |
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#23 |
I Love This Stuff!
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Posts: 739
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Damn i'm sorry to keep buggin you with questions Jason, but how accesable are the upper bag mounting bolts and air fitting? Is that crossmember in the way of those bolts?
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My Rides 1967 C10 In Pieces for now ![]() 1985 Ford B700 SourPuss Bus - BIG BLUE 2003 Silverado CITY WORKER YELLOW!! |
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#24 | |
Seņor Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Edge of the world
Posts: 5,367
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Quote:
Kenneth
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#25 |
registered IWATA user
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Baton Rouge
Posts: 4,483
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like XXL said, Air Ride will be very helpful in your project, thats where my friend who has a bagged 96 got all his stuff from, and we sent him prob 20 emails before it was completely finished. Good company
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-'63 Ford Fairlane 500 coupe, v8, auto, faded and rusty. awaiting built roller 302 and some flat black -'99 Honda Prelude. vtech/5spd. no pipe, no intake, bone stock. awaiting new top end. -01 GMC Yukon SLT 5.3 dented and scratched with a noisy tranny. Take off that Von Dutch hat before i stab you with a 000 Mack. |
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