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Old 03-31-2003, 07:10 PM   #1
84Stepper
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shift kit

Im about to put on a new tranny pan gasket and I was thinking it would be good to put on a shift kit. I have a turbo 350. Do you guys think it's a good idea to put one on?How hard is it to install? ~Jon
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Old 03-31-2003, 07:26 PM   #2
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They are pretty easy to install if you don't drop the little balls from your valve body.
I have put in quite a few B&Ms.
Follow the directions to the letter and like I said; Don't lose any little balls and you will be rewarded with a longer lasting tranny due to less slippage and less band wear.
There are three levels you can go with on a shift kit but I would not go with the third level because it puts too much strain on the stock stuff inside your 350.
Go with level two and you will be safe.
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Old 03-31-2003, 08:57 PM   #3
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I just helped install one in someone's transmission. We had it out of the truck and upside down, so it was super easy. Shouldn't be too hard with it still in. It does take drilling (in the plate on the kit - not your tranny!) but not much else.
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Old 03-31-2003, 10:46 PM   #4
84Stepper
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Ok thanks guys I'll try to not loose any little balls.
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Old 04-01-2003, 12:06 AM   #5
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I like shift kits. Mine knockout your teeth if you not holding on.
WOT is a lot of fun!!
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Old 04-01-2003, 02:39 AM   #6
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like is this a shift kit with a B&M hammer shifter in the floor or what? hehe i need something to shift harder im putting that 400 sb bored 60 with that bad ass lunati cam in it and a 20/20 turned crank what types of shift kits are thease how much i get them for
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Old 04-01-2003, 02:49 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by CrazyJesster
like is this a shift kit with a B&M hammer shifter in the floor or what? hehe i need something to shift harder im putting that 400 sb bored 60 with that bad ass lunati cam in it and a 20/20 turned crank what types of shift kits are thease how much i get them for
CrazyJesster,
It don't have anything to do with your shifter.
This is a internal trans mod to make it shift harder.
Good for chirping the ole tires and the like.
They are not much, I think around $50 or so from B&M.
That 400 sounds nice indeed!!!
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Old 04-01-2003, 03:04 AM   #8
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well on my cam i can get a lunati cam and lk lifter kit for 142.99 out of summit im thinking 458 or 460 lift or 480 0r 515 not sure yet but any of those 4 cams are 142 not bad at all

then have an edlebrock peformer intake i can get that at the part store down the street for 110 then 40 series flowmasters with dynomax headers im going to turn the exhaust down under the bed might add the flowtech purple hornet turndowns they got a glass pack in them that whould be obknocious and loud its how i like it not sure bout the hornets thow but for sure turn downs oh also the fuel is fed by my the holly 650 cfm 4bbl carb whoo hooo i cant wait i still oew money to get the block out of the machine shop butima have it done soon
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Old 04-01-2003, 03:50 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by CrazyJesster
well on my cam i can get a lunati cam and lk lifter kit for 142.99 out of summit im thinking 458 or 460 lift or 480 0r 515 not sure yet but any of those 4 cams are 142 not bad at all

then have an edlebrock peformer intake i can get that at the part store down the street for 110 then 40 series flowmasters with dynomax headers im going to turn the exhaust down under the bed might add the flowtech purple hornet turndowns they got a glass pack in them that whould be obknocious and loud its how i like it not sure bout the hornets thow but for sure turn downs oh also the fuel is fed by my the holly 650 cfm 4bbl carb whoo hooo i cant wait i still oew money to get the block out of the machine shop butima have it done soon
Sounds like a good plan there,
$142 for a cam does indeed sound good to me as I recently bought a roller cam for $259=without any lifters!!
Those things are high!!!
Give me the duration numbers of those cams and I can tell more about them.
A 400 can stand more cam than a 350 so you can get by with a serious bumpstick in it.
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Old 04-01-2003, 04:03 AM   #10
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the 458 lift has a duration of 218 @.050 the 460 lift is 224 @ .050
the 480 lift has a duration of 230 @.050
the 515 lift has a duration of 246 @.050
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Old 04-01-2003, 04:06 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mike76251
They are pretty easy to install if you don't drop the little balls from your valve body.
I have put in quite a few B&Ms.
Follow the directions to the letter and like I said; Don't lose any little balls and you will be rewarded with a longer lasting tranny due to less slippage and less band wear.
There are three levels you can go with on a shift kit but I would not go with the third level because it puts too much strain on the stock stuff inside your 350.
Go with level two and you will be safe.
So what are the levels of kits i want to add one to my truck.
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Old 04-01-2003, 04:12 AM   #12
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im so sorry to bring this post off of topic

im so happy bout my motor an all but sorry bout the off topic thing

i was told when i got my tranny installed there was a mild shift kit in it or small one said its toned down some id like it to bump the tires course my pick up is a right tire fryer so it dont scratch the bald tire so it may scratch worse than the other tranny did
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Old 04-01-2003, 05:34 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by CrazyJesster
the 458 lift has a duration of 218 @.050 the 460 lift is 224 @ .050
the 480 lift has a duration of 230 @.050
the 515 lift has a duration of 246 @.050
Thanks for the specs,
You have a good range there for your engine,
From mild to wild or I should say from wild to wilder.
I would go with the 480/230 if I were doing it.
Anymore than that and you will kill all your torque.
You would also need aftermarket cylinder heads and a bigger carb with anything larger to get any real use out of it.
That cam will give you a good lope at idle but not too much.
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Old 04-01-2003, 05:38 AM   #14
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Originally posted by MSL


So what are the levels of kits i want to add one to my truck.
If I remember right B&M calls them;
1.Street
2.Towing
3.Strip

Something like that.
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Old 04-01-2003, 01:35 PM   #15
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alright thats what i was thinking was the 480 lift
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Old 04-01-2003, 05:24 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mike76251


If I remember right B&M calls them;
1.Street
2.Towing
3.Strip

Something like that.
Probably need to get the street one. is that what you guys are using.?
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Old 04-01-2003, 06:54 PM   #17
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I think B&M kits are all the same. What makes it different levels is how many holes you drill in the seperator plate. About the only thing included is gaskets and a drill bit. Not much to a B&M kit.
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Old 04-01-2003, 07:54 PM   #18
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Ok sounds pretty easy i have to replace my tranny pan to one with a drain plug so i figured while i was doing that i would get a kit to put in.
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Old 04-01-2003, 09:23 PM   #19
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Originally posted by MSL
Ok sounds pretty easy i have to replace my tranny pan to one with a drain plug so i figured while i was doing that i would get a kit to put in.
B&M makes a drain plug kit for a stock steel pan.
Summit and Jegs has them and so might a Kragen.

The only thing bad about it is if you don't tack weld it to the pan the base of this plug will eventually turn and leak a bit.

One reason GM doesn't put drain plugs in trans pans is so you will be forced to drop the pan and therefore will change the filter.
Just changing the fluid won't cut it.
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Old 04-01-2003, 09:32 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mike76251


B&M makes a drain plug kit for a stock steel pan.
Summit and Jegs has them and so might a Kragen.

The only thing bad about it is if you don't tack weld it to the pan the base of this plug will eventually turn and leak a bit.

One reason GM doesn't put drain plugs in trans pans is so you will be forced to drop the pan and therefore will change the filter.
Just changing the fluid won't cut it.
Yes i know that just changing the fluid wont do but i dont like not being able to drain the fluid first without having to drop the pan and hope it doesnt go all over the place which it usally does. no need to make my own when i have never had anyproblems with aftermarket pans with drain plugs. I think GM's reason is dumb since most people usally dont bother to change the fluid since theres no plug and hence the filter doesnt get changed so it would have been better to add a plug atleast the fluid would get changed. but i guess that will give transmission shops alot of biz.
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Old 04-01-2003, 09:42 PM   #21
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You have your facts right on that plug MSL
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Old 04-01-2003, 10:06 PM   #22
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Ya. I just like having a plug to drain the fluid first.
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Old 04-02-2003, 12:30 AM   #23
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I put the B&M drain plug kit in last time I put on a gasket so it should be a breeze this time.
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